Fall Warm Vegetables

The dreadfully hot and muggy times of August and September can be an ideal time to plant a vegetable garden. The thoughts of corn, tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, beans and squash for Thanksgiving spur many to brave the weather and get going in the garden.

Before beginning the soil preparation one must remember an important point. Growing a vegetable garden means we are planting non-native, herbaceous plants in a hostile environment. And these plants are expected to reach maturity in a short, explosive growth period.

The lettuce will have large leaves, the corn will grow tassel and set ears, the tomatoes will grow, bloom and make a fruit. That's a lot to ask in a short and non- midwestern growing climate.

By keeping that in mind efforts made prior to planting pay the most rewards. The season is too short for gardeners to play any kind of catch-up. If a plant becomes defiecient in any nutrients by the time they are added you have lost so much time the crop may not make it. Even a day or two of water stress and the two to four days of recovery means a week of growing is lost.

Preparations done ahead do more better than anything to be done to make up for it.

Site selection is important. The sunn will be getting farther and farther south each day. A site on the north side of a wall will half day light now will be in more shade later. Plants needs aat least 6-8 hours of sun to perform properly.

The soil preparation follows a time tested recipe. Add a large layer of some form or organic matter. The particular choice is not as important as getting at least two inches dug in. Choices for organic matter include: compost, any well-aged manure, nitrogen stabilized bark materials or peat moss.

To the layer of organic matter spread 3 to 5 pounds of a dry sulfur product per every 1000 square feet of garden. Regular soil sulfur or the Dispersul products are the best choices. These products react in the alkaline soil to form little pockets of acidity in the soil. Most of the plants used are native to a prefer a slightly acidic soil. When roots of these plants grow into these pockets the nutrients held by soil particles are more available. The roots absorb the nutients more effeciently when the nutrients are available.

Next comes the fertilizer. While many good vegetable or general purpose fertlizers exist it is critical to make sure phosphorous is in ample supply. If the pre mixed fertilizers are high in phosphorous, great if not find a high phosphourous fertilizer. Add it at the recommended rate stated on the bag.

Phosophorous is essential in vegetable gardens. Not only do the crops demand a lot of it; phosphorous is absolutely needed for juvenile root growth. Whether from seeds or transplants, young plants short of phosphorous exhibit retarded root growth.

After everything is spread out then dig, rototill or incoporate it all uniformily. Avoid any pockets of any of the ingredients. After thats done give is a light sprinkler watering not more than 1/2 inch of water. This gets the mix brewing and naturally settles the soil.

Written by Terry Mikel, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 602-470-8086.
Material originally appeared in Arizona Republic
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