1|7|Getting Ready to Fall Garden|Although the cooler weather of autumn is still several weeks away, it's time to think fall gardening. Planning and preparing now will insure your garden is ready to plant beginning next month.%0A%0AHere in Tucson, autumn is an ideal time to grow cool season vegetables. Warm, sunny days and cool nights provide ideal growing conditions. Our first frost doesn't usually occur until Thanksgiving, and frost hardy cool season vegetables will keep growing into early winter.%0A%0AThe most popular cool season vegies include: cabbage, broccoli, leaf lettuce, cauliflower, onions, leeks and radishes. Others that do well are turnips, spinach, asparagus, carrots, brussel sprouts, collards, and mustard greens.%0A%0ABefore planting, choose and area suited to growing vegetables. The location should receive at least six hours of full sun each day. It should also be well away from trees and large shrubs and their competing roots.%0A%0AIf you're new to vegetable gardening, start small. There is a lot of hard work in establishing a garden, so don't take on too much at once. A small garden would be one of about 200 to 300 square feet. In subsequent seasons, if you wish, you can enlarge it.%0A%0ASoil preparation is key to success with a vegetable garden here in the desert. Our soils, for the most part, are very alkaline. Vegetables prefer and slightly acid soil, with a ph of 6.5 to 6.9, not the 8.0 or higher ph that we have here in Tucson. Also vegetables like to grow in soils rich in organic matter, another thing we don't have.%0A%0AMix plenty of organic matter into the top foot of soil. You can use peat moss, organic peat, bagged manure or compost. Desert compost, made from trimmings from our local landscapes, and processed commercial, is available and is a great form of organic matter to mix into our desert soils. For the serious vegetable grower a home compost pile or source of manure is invaluable.%0A%0AAlong with the organic matter, mix in sulfur and fertilizer. Soil sulfur, applied at the rate of 5 lbs. for each 100-square feet of garden bed, will temporarily reduce the alkalinity of our soils and help plants grow better. The fertilizer, in the form of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) applied at 2 lb. per 100-square feet, will provide the nutrients for you vegetable plants. You can also use organic fertilizers. Blood meal is a good source of nitrogen while bone meal can be used to supply phosphorous.%0A%0AIf you don't have room for a garden plot in your yard, try growing vegetables in pots and containers. Leaf lettuce, romaine, and green onions will grow in small pots six to eight inches in diameter and height. Carrots, spinach, broccoli and bib lettuce will grow in larger pots or planters ten inches in diameter and height. Relatively all vegetables, including those mentioned will grow in bushel size containers, roughly 18 inches in diameter and 12 inches in height.%0A%0ASome vegetables are better started from seed planted directly in the fall garden. These include: turnip, mustard, leek, celery, kohlrabi, carrot, and kale. Others like broccoli, brussel sprouts, lettuce, collards, cabbage, and cauliflower are easily transplanted. These can be purchased as small plants or you can grow your own from seed in pots or flats for transplanting into the garden.%0A%0ANow is the time to start transplants from seed. In four to six weeks they will be ready for transplanting into the garden. Seeds, potting soil and containers for growing your own transplants are now available at local garden centers and retail nurseries.%0A%0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0AMaterial originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on August 22, 1999 %0A%0A|August 22, 1999 | 3|9|Get A Jump On Spring Vegetable Gardening|If your planning to plant a vegetable garden this spring, now is the time to decide whether to start them from seed, or purchase transplants.%0A%0A Many gardeners like to start their plants from seed, because they can grow interesting and unusual varieties not available in the local garden stores. Mail order garden catalogs offer an overwhelming choice; many "tried and true" varieties are offered, while many others are brand new.%0A%0A Getting a jump on spring is another important reason for growing plants from seed. Warm season vegetables like tomatoes and eggplant are much more productive in mid to late spring. Extended summer heat here in the desert stresses these plants and reduces fruit production. Setting them out as early as possible will extend the harvest period of warm season crops.%0A%0A Some vegetables can be grown from seed in window sills, cold frames, or greenhouses for later planting out in the garden. These are the types that transplant easily and include; tomato, eggplant, onion, pepper, and okra. %0A%0A When growing seeds in containers, use prepared potting soil, a seed-starting mix or peat pots. You can make your own seed starting mix by combining equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. You can buy them in separate bags at garden center and home supply stores. Peat pots, peat pellets, plastic cell packs, trays, egg cartons, and virtually clean container that will hold soil can be used to start seeds. Make sure the container has drainage holes.%0A%0A Small seeds can be shattered over the soil mix and barely covered. Larger seeds can be planted individually or in groups of three and covered a little deeper. Later, the seedlings planted in groups of three can be thinned to leave the one most vigorous. When thinning seedlings, use a scissors to cut them off; never pull them out!%0A%0A Warm soil hastens seed germination. If your starting seeds indoors, set them in a warm location. Special heating mats are available from mail order garden catalogs. They increase soil temperatures some 15 to 20 degrees. %0A%0A Some vegetables grown from seed cannot be easily transplanted. Rather that starting them in pots or flats, they should be sown directly in the garden. They include; bean, corn, cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, peas, squash, and watermelon.%0A%0A%0A%0A Optimum soil temperatures for the germination of most vegetable variety seed is about 80 degrees. This means waiting to seed the garden until soil temperatures have at least risen into the 70 degree range. In the Tucson area that usually happens the end of March.%0A%0A Garden soil must be prepared well prior to planting seeds. The soil should be tilled, and organic matter added. Desert compost, peat, or composted manure are all good types of organic matter that can be mixed with the soil. Till in 4 inches of organic matter into the top 12 inches of garden soil. At the same time mix in 2 pounds of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) or similar analysis fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden area. Organic fertilizers such as fish meal, bone meal, and blood meal may also be used.%0A%0A Rake the area to be seeded to provide a fine textured seed bed, free of rocks and other debris. Rake the soil out smoothly. Several days prior to planting water the soil thoroughly. This will settle the soil and provide a reservoir of moisture for germinating seeds.%0A%0A Plant seeds at the depth and spacing called for on the seed packets. And after planting, keep the soil moist. If the soil drys during germination and establishment it can be fatal! %0A%0A The topic for this week's garden demonstration will be Pruning and Training Fruit Trees. It will be presented at the University of Arizona Farm on N. Campbell Ave, beginning at 9:00 a.m. on Wednesday. Participants are asked to use the University of Arizona Meat Lab parking lot, entering from Limberlost, just west of Campbell Ave. The Meat Lab parking lot is directly across Campbell Avenue from the Pima County Extension Center. This program will be repeated at the Wilmot Library at 1:00 p.m. on Wednesday and again at 2:00 p.m. on Thursday at the Marana Planning Services on the Northeast corner of Orange Grove and Thornydale.%0A%0A%0A|April 20, 2001| 4|8|Get Ready To Grow Tomatoes|It's true that nothing tastes as good as a juicy red, vine ripened tomato picked fresh from the garden. That's why tomatoes are the most popular home garden vegetable, and well worth the effort involved in growing.%0A%0ATomatoes are easy to grow in the desert if you get them off to an early start. It's best to order your tomato plants and grow them from seed, for planting in March. Ordering from seed catalogs also allows you to select the most tasty and best adapted varieties for our hot, desert climate. Three of the most consistent performers are "Celebrity", "Big Beef", and "Patio". They are All American Selections award winners, denoting the best garden varieties for North America. The red, white, and blue All-American Shield on seed packets denotes winning varieties. %0A%0ACelebrity is a medium-sized tomato with good flavor and resistance to cracking. Big Beef is a meaty, medium to large fruited, and arguably the best "beefsteak" tomato for the home garden. Patio has medium, dark red fruits and grows well in containers. All are quick growing; producing tomatoes in around 70 days. %0A%0ATomato varieties grown in Tucson should be 70 day or shorter varieties to get the earliest crop of spring tomatoes possible before the heat sets in. Other proven local performers include; Burpee's Heatwave II, Sunmaster, Lemon Boy, Scarlett Express, Enchantment, Roma (paste type), and Gardener's Delight (cherry type). %0A%0AMany large seed catalog companies now have web addresses that can provide information on varieties and accept seed orders for quick turnaround. You can access these through a web search for "garden seed catalogs" or some derivation thereof. MySeasons.com provides access to several seed companies including; Gurney's, Henry Field's, and Spring Hill. Some other select addresses include; Park's Seed at parkseed.com, Johnny's Selected Seeds at johnnyseeds.com, Burpee Seeds at burpee.com, and Shepherd's Seeds at shepherdseeds.com. %0A%0AIf computers are not your thing, and you need a list of addresses of garden seed catalogs, you can obtain a free listing by sending a self-addressed stamped envelop to: Garden Seeds, 4210 N. Campbell Ave., Tucson, 85719. %0A%0AGetting tomato plants out early means planting them in your Tucson garden in mid-March. Since it usually takes 4 to 5 weeks to grow sturdy 4 to 5 inch tomato plants from seed, have your seed ready to sow by mid-February. That means ordering seeds soon! %0A%0ATo grow your plants from seed, you'll need a location indoors that offers lots of light, and warm temperatures. A south facing window is ideal. Next best is a west facing window. %0A%0AYou can also provide seedlings the light they need artificially. A utility or shop light with florescent tubes works well. These can be purchases at hardware and home supply stores. Purchase the florescent tubes separately. You'll want one warm-white florescent tube, and one cool-white florescent tube. In combination, they will provide the best light for plant growth. %0A%0AUtility or shop light fixtures come with adjustable chains, ideal for growing plants. The light should be maintained just a few inches above the seedlings. As they grow, the light can be moved upward to maintain the proper distance from the seedlings. Positioning the light too far away will not provide the light intensity needed to grow healthy, compact plants. %0A%0AYour tomato seeds can be started in just about any container that will drain, and hold soil. Plastic trays, pots and "cell-paks" can be used and reused to grow seedlings. Peat pots, and Jiffy 7 peat pellets can also be purchased at garden centers and are excellent for starting seeds. Items around the home such as egg cartons, the bottom of milk cartons, and microwave food trays can also be used. Just be sure to poke holes in the bottom for drainage. %0A%0AFill you containers with a high-quality potting soil. Seed starting mixes can also be purchased. Water the potting soil until water comes out the drainage holes. Next, make small holes in the soil to plant your tomato seeds. Make the holes one-quarter inch deep, using a sharp pencil. Space planting holes 2 to 3 inches apart in trays. If your using small individual pots, make just one hole in the center. Plant 2 tomato seeds per hole, and cover lightly with soil. Keep the seeded containers in a warm location, and keep the soil moist. %0A%0AThe seeds will germinate in 7 to 10 days. As the seedlings grow, pinch out the weaker plant of each pair. Keep watering, and provide plenty of light. When the seedlings are about 2 inches tall, fertilize them with a water soluble house plant fertilizer. The seedlings will be ready to plant out in the garden in 6 to 8 weeks after germination.%0A%0AIn future columns I will discuss preparation of the spring garden bed, for the planting of plants and the sowing of direct-seeded vegetable varieties.%0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0AMaterial originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on January 23, 2000%0A%0A|January 23, 2000| 6|6|It's Time to Tide-Up the Garden|Now that Winter is upon us, garden and landscape activities have slowed considerably. That makes it an ideal time to clean-up outdoors in preparation for the Spring growing season. %0ALeaf and twig litter from garden and landscape plants should be cleaned up and disposed of. If you have a compost bin, the litter can be used to your advantage to make compost. If not bag it up and throw it away. Getting rid of the litter will help reduce future insect and disease problems thorough the oldest control method known: sanitation! %0A%0AIf certain garden plants have been badly infest with insects such as mites, whitefly, or scale; throw them away. Proper composting will kill these pests, however, composting is not always thorough and these pests could reinfect the garden next spring. %0A%0ACleaning up weeds also provides sanitation. More importantly, if you eliminate the weeds you'll get rid of weed seeds that could germinate later this Winter. Many unwanted plants sprout each year, these plants are called "volunteers". They may or may not be true weeds. Brittlebush and desert marigold are desirable wildflowers but may become a nuisance as they pop up in uncontrolled locations in the landscape. Others like fountain grass and desert broom are truly invasive and should be eliminated when detected. %0A%0ASpent flowers and flower stalks should be pruned off. Plants like penstemon, salvia, hesperaloe, bird-of-paradise, yucca and others with dried stalks of spikes can be pruned. This grooming process keeps plants healthier and more vigorous. %0A%0AWinter dormant perennials, such as Calylophus, Helianthus, Rudbeckia and ornamental grasses can be cut back to near the ground. They will regrow in the spring, producing new shoots from the basal portion of the plant. %0A%0ADead wood and broken branches should be pruned from evergreen trees and shrubs now. Be careful, however, not to prune branches that just look dead. Some freeze damaged plants, such as bougainvillea and lantana, will probably recover next spring. The easiest way to tell if a branch is alive or dead, is to scratch it with your thumb nail or a sharp knife. Live wood will reveal green sapwood beneath the bark, while dead wood will be brown throughout. %0A%0AMesquite trees often have dead twigs at the ends of the branches. A small gray beetle, called the twig pruner, is usually responsible. The beetle cuts a perfect ring around the twig, and everything from that point out dies. The beetle's purpose is to lay it's eggs in the outside edge of the cut. If these twigs remain on the tree, or fall under the tree and is not removed, the eggs hatch the following spring and the process starts over. If these twigs are pruned out of the tree just below the cut ring or picked up from the ground, the damage will likely not occur next year. %0A%0ABesides cleaning up, it's also a good time to dress up the garden with additional mulch. Organic mulches are great for plants. They help conserve moisture, control weeds, moderate soil temperatures, and increase organic matter. Because they decompose over time, new mulch needs to be added to maintain a layer 3 to 4 inches thick. Forest mulch, chunk bark, and shredded wood are some of the best types of organic mulch available at garden centers and nurseries. Rock mulch too, needs a top-dressing of additional stone from time to time. No one knows how it disappears, but it does! %0A%0ACleaning up garden debris, pruning and grooming plants, and adding mulch are important Winter gardening activities. Accomplishing them now, will afford you more time this coming Spring for the really fun stuff: planting! %0A%0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona 626-5161. Material originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on January 17, 1999 %0A%0A|January 17, 1999 | 7|5|Planting The Fall Vegetable Garden|Autumn is the best time of year to garden here in the desert. Temperatures are warm, but not hot, and there's plenty of sun for good plant growth. Cool season vegetable transplants are available in the garden centers. These include; cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts, and cabbage.%0A%0AMake sure the transplants you purchase are healthy. Avoid overgrown plants! These are not as vigorous as smaller ones and will not preform as well when planted in the garden. Also check the roots by carefully taking the plant out of it's pot. Healthy, cream colored roots should be visible along the outside edge of the soil ball. Black or gray colored roots indicated a sick plant, one to avoid. Leaves should be medium to dark green and free of blemishes.%0A%0ASeeds can also be planted now. Cool season vegetables grown from seed include; lettuce, spinach, carrots, radishes, green bunching onion, mustard, and leek. Seed packets are available at local garden centers. For a greater selection of varieties, consider ordering from vegetable seed catalogs. Listings of seed catalogs, and how to obtain them are available in most gardening magazines and books.%0A%0AWhether planting seeds or transplants, it's important to properly prepare the soil. Mark off the area you intend to plant. Spread a layer of organic matter about four inches thick over the area. Organic matter can be home compost, bagged compost, composted cow or horse manure, or peat moss. What organic matter is the best? Generally, whatever is the least expense and the most available organic matter is best to use. %0A%0ABefore digging in the organic matter, broadcast fertilizer, in the form of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0), at the rate of two pounds per 100 square feet of garden plot. If you prefer an organic fertilizer, use two pounds each of bone meal (3-22-0) and blood meal (12-1-1). Both the fertilizer and the organic matter should be tilled or spaded in to the top 12 inches of soil. %0A%0AA few days prior to planting, water the soil thoroughly. This will help leach any harmful salts out of the soil where the roots will be growing. Vegetable transplants should be set out in the evening. This will allow transplants a little time to adjust before exposure to the sun. Handle transplants carefully. The root ball is fragile. Dig holes deep enough to set the transplants in just slightly deeper than they were growing in the pot. Before setting them in, lightly roughen the outside of the root ball with your fingers. This will encourage roots to grow out into the garden soil. %0A%0AAfter planting, water transplants using a starter fertilizer solution. You can make a starter solution by mixing one tablespoon of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0), or similar analysis fertilizer, in one gallon of water. Water each transplant with a cup of this solution. Finally, firm the soil by hand around each transplant.%0A%0ABe especially careful not to let plants dry out. For the first few days watering may be required twice daily, then tapering off to once a day. The point being, keep the soil moist and your plants will thrive, let it dry out and they'll suffer.%0A%0AWhen starting vegetables from seed, work the soil sufficiently to provide a fine, firm seed bed. Cabbage can be planted in single rows. Vegetables that tolerate crowding, such as looseleaf lettuce and radishes, can be planted in two to three feet wide rows in broadcast fashion. Block plantings, usually in diamond patterns, work well for vegetables that need uniform spacing but not single rows. These include; heading types of lettuce, cabbage, carrots, and onions. Check the seed package for spacing intervals.%0A%0AA general rule to follow is to place the seed at a depth about four times the diameter of the seed. Cover small seeds such as carrots and lettuce with no more than 1/4 to ½ inch of soil. In sandy soils plant the seeds somewhat deeper.%0A%0ACover the seeds and firm the soil over them by gently tamping the soil. This prevents rain or sprinkler water from washing away the seeds.%0A%0AIrrigate by sprinkling the soil surface lightly with a watering wand or other hose attachment. Seeds need moisture to germinate. Water often enough to prevent crusting and drying around the seed. After seedlings emerge, watering should be less often but deeper. Do not let young seedlings dry out!%0A%0AThin to the desirable number of plants as soon as the plants are established. Remove the weaker plants. Do not wait too long before thinning or injury will result from crowding and disturbing the remaining plants.%0A%0AFinally, if you haven't the room for a large garden how about gardening in pots and planters. Most vegetables grow well in containers if they're grown in a quality, light weight potting soil. %0A%0AYou can mix your own by using one bushel each of peat moss and vermiculite and 1 cup of 6-6-6 (or similar analysis) fertilizer with trace elements. Make sure container vegetables are watered often, especially in warm weather.%0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0AMaterial originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on September 27, 1998%0A|April 23, 2001| 8|4|Planting The Spring Vegetable Garden|Seeds Get Vegetable Gardens Of To Early Start %0A%0AIf your planning to plant a vegetable garden this spring, now is the time to decide whether to start them from seed, or purchase transplants. %0AMany gardeners like to start their plants from seed, because they can grow interesting and unusual varieties not available in the local garden stores. Mail order garden catalogs offer an overwhelming choice; many "tried and true" varieties are offered, while many others are brand new. %0A%0AGetting a jump on the season is another important reason for growing plants from seed. Warm season vegetables like tomatoes and eggplant are much more productive in mid to late spring. Extended summer heat here in the desert stresses these plants and reduces fruit production. Setting them out as early as possible will extend the harvest period of warm season crops. %0A%0ASome vegetables can be grown from seed in window sills, cold frames, or greenhouses for later planting out in the garden. These are the types that transplant easily and include; tomato, eggplant, onion, pepper, and okra. %0A%0AWhen growing seeds in containers for later transplanting, use prepared potting soil, jiffy mix or peat pots. You can make your own seed starting mix by combining equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. These ingredients are also available form garden supply stores. Peat pots, peat pellets, plastic cell packs, trays, egg cartons, and virtually clean container that will hold soil can be used to start seeds. Make sure the container has drainage holes. %0A%0ASmall seeds can be shattered over the soil surface and barely covered. Larger seeds can be planted individually or in groups of three and covered a little deeper. Later, the seedlings planted in groups of three can be thinned to leave the one most vigorous. %0A%0AWarm soil hastens seed germination. If your starting seeds indoors, set them on the television to provide bottom heat. Special heating mats are available from mail order garden catalogs. Heating cables contained in a rubber mat warms the soil some 15 to 20 degrees above the surrounding temperature. %0A%0ASome vegetable varieties cannot easily be transplanted and, therefore, should be sown directly in the garden. These include; bean, corn, cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, peas, squash, and watermelon. %0A%0AOptimum soil temperatures for the germination of most vegetable variety seed is about 80 degrees. Cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash, and okra seed prefer soil temperatures of 90 degrees. This means waiting to seed the garden until temperatures have at least risen into the 70 degree range. In the Tuscon area that means waiting until the end of March. %0A%0AGarden soil must be prepared well prior to planting seeds. The soil should be tilled, and organic matter added. Desert compost, cotton burl compost, peat, or composted manure are all good types of organic matter that can be mixed with the soil. Incorporate a 4 inch layer of organic matter into the top 12 inches of garden soil. At the same time mix in 2 pounds of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) or similar analysis fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden area. Organic fertilizers such as fish meal, bone meal, and blood meal may also be used. %0A%0ATill the soil thoroughly to break up all large soil clods. Rake the area to be seeded to provide a fine textured seed bed, free of rocks and other debris. Rake the soil out smoothly. Several days prior to planting water the soil thoroughly. This will settle the soil and provide a reservoir of moisture for germinating seeds. %0A%0APlant seeds at the depth and spacing called for on the seed packets. And after planting, keep the soil moist. If the soil drys during germination and establishment it can be fatal! Shading the soil with a few sheets of newspaper will help hold in moisture in during germaination. Remember to check soil moisture daily and water as needed. When seeds sprout, promptly take off the newspaper covering. %0A%0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona 626-5161. Material orifinally appeared in Arizona Dailt Stargardening column, on March 8, 1998 %0AReturn to index %0A|March 8, 1998 | 9|3|Seeds Get Vegetables Gardens Off to Early Start|If your planning to plant a vegetable garden this spring, now is the time to decide whether to start them from seed, or purchase transplants. %0A%0AMany gardeners like to start their plants from seed, because they can grow interesting and unusual varieties not available in the local garden stores. Mail order garden catalogs offer an overwhelming choice; many "tried and true" varieties are offered, while many others are brand new. %0A%0AGetting a jump on the season is another important reason for growing plants from seed. Warm season vegetables like tomatoes and eggplant are much more productive in mid to late spring. Extended summer heat here in the desert stresses these plants and reduces fruit production. Setting them out as early as possible will extend the harvest period of warm season crops. %0A%0ASome vegetables can be grown from seed in window sills, cold frames, or greenhouses for later planting out in the garden. These are the types that transplant easily and include; tomato, eggplant, onion, pepper, and okra. %0A%0AWhen growing seeds in containers for later transplanting, use prepared potting soil, jiffy mix or peat pots. You can make your own seed starting mix by combining equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. These ingredients are also available form garden supply stores. Peat pots, peat pellets, plastic cell packs, trays, egg cartons, and virtually clean container that will hold soil can be used to start seeds. Make sure the container has drainage holes. %0A%0ASmall seeds can be shattered over the soil surface and barely covered. Larger seeds can be planted individually or in groups of three and covered a little deeper. Later, the seedlings planted in groups of three can be thinned to leave the one most vigorous. %0A%0AWarm soil hastens seed germination. If your starting seeds indoors, set them in a warm location. Special heating mats are available from mail order garden catalogs. Heating cables contained in a rubber mat warms the soil some 15 to 20 degrees above the surrounding temperature. %0A%0ASome vegetable varieties cannot easily be transplanted and, therefore, should be sown directly in the garden. These include; bean, corn, cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, peas, squash, and watermelon. %0A%0AOptimum soil temperatures for the germination of most vegetable variety seed is about 80 degrees. Cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash, and okra seed prefer soil temperatures of 90 degrees. This means waiting to seed the garden until soil temperatures have at least risen into the 70 degree range. In the Tucson area that means waiting until the end of March. %0A%0AGarden soil must be prepared well prior to planting seeds. The soil should be tilled, and organic matter added. Desert compost, cotton burl compost, peat, or composted manure are all good types of organic matter that can be mixed with the soil. Incorporate a 4 inch layer of organic matter into the top 12 inches of garden soil. At the same time mix in 2 pounds of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) or similar analysis fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden area. Organic fertilizers such as fish meal, bone meal, and blood meal may also be used. %0A%0ATill the soil thoroughly to break up all large soil clods. Rake the area to be seeded to provide a fine textured seed bed, free of rocks and other debris. Rake the soil out smoothly. Several days prior to planting water the soil thoroughly. This will settle the soil and provide a reservoir of moisture for germinating seeds. %0A%0APlant seeds at the depth and spacing called for on the seed packets. And after planting, keep the soil moist. If the soil drys during germination and establishment it can be fatal! Shading the soil with a few sheets of newspaper will help hold in moisture in during germination. Remember to check soil moisture daily and water as needed. When seeds sprout, promptly take off the newspaper covering. %0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0AMaterial originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on February 06, 2000%0A%0A|February 06, 2000| 10|1|Why Garden Plants Fail to Produce|Home gardeners are often frustrated when seemingly heathy vegetable plants fail to produce fruit. There are a number of factors that effect fruit production, and several common reasons why fruit fail to form. %0AOne of the primary causes for poor production of summer vegetables is over-fertilization. Fruiting plants need a balance of nutrients to produce well. Too much nitrogen, or a fertilizer weighted too heavily in nitrogen, causes leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. Leafy growth is fine for cool season vegetables, but warm season fruiting types, like pepper and tomato, suffer from excessive leafy growth. Besides chemical fertilizers, it's also possible to overdo it with organics such as manure. It's better to add fertilizer as-needed, rather than starting out with too much. If over-fertilization is suspected, nitrogen can be leached out of the root zone of plants by watering heavily. %0A%0AVegetable production also suffers from adverse temperature conditions. Tomato and snap bean will drop their blooms when temperatures exceed 95 degrees. Blossom drop is more of a problem in tomatoes when night temperatures remain high, 75 degrees and above. That's why it's so important to plant tomatoes out early in the spring to maximize their productivity. Cherry tomatoes are the exception as they will set fruit over a wider temperature range than most large-fruited types. Cherry tomatoes will fruit throughout the heat of summer, even here in Tucson. %0A%0ACorn is another vegetable adversely effected by high temperatures. The corn tassel (pollen producing part) is often killed when temperatures are above 100 degrees. Injury to the tassel will prevent development of kernels in the ear. %0A%0AWater plays a crucial role in fruit production. With summer vegetables, blossom and fruit drop is commonly a result of moisture stress. Be consistent with watering. Maintaining an evenly moist soil in the vegetable garden encourages the best production. After fruit have formed, continue with consistent watering. Blossom end rot, common on tomatoes and peppers is a result of fluctuating levels of soil moisture. %0A%0AIt is common for summer squash plants not to produce, or to produce poorly. This is because of insufficient pollination of the female flowers. Both male and female flowers are produced on the same squash plant. Sometimes many more male flowers are produced and few if any female flowers appear. At other times many more female flowers are present, but male flowers are scarce. Pollination from male to female flower fails to happen, and no squash are formed. Hand pollination can be carried out. %0A%0AMale flowers from one plant can be used to pollinate female flowers from another, or of the same plant. Female flowers can be identified by the miniature squash (unfertilized embryo) attached under the flower. Male flowers have no such attached miniature squash. To hand pollinate, a male flower is removed and the pollen producing anthers in the center of the flower are rubbed onto the stigma of the female flower to achieve fertilization. %0A%0AFinally, some vegetables fail to fruit or fruit poorly because they are not adapted to the intense heat and sun of the desert. Bell peppers for instance are not adapted to our summer growing conditions and do poorly, but chili peppers love the heat! Many garden seed catalogs have a selection of vegetable varieties that will tolerate intense summer heat. Early ripening varieties are also well suited to the desert as they will mature before the heat of summer sets in. %0A%0ALocal garden centers and nurseries also have good selections of heat adapted varieties. %0A%0A%0A%0A--------------------------------------------------------------------------------%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona 626-5161. Material originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on May 2, 1999 %0A%0A|May 2, 1999 | 11|11|Plant Pumpkins Now for Halloween.|A fun activity to do with your kids is to plant a pumpkin patch in your garden. Most pumpkin varieties mature in 100 to 120 days. By planting now, you'll have pumpkins ready to pick for Halloween decorations and harvest arrangements. %0A%0A Most pumpkins are really types of orange-colored summer squash. They come in a variety of sizes, some as small as soft balls, others as large as beach balls. The really big ones entered in contests are mostly the ‘Big Mac' and ‘Big Moon' varieties of "pumpkin" squash. %0A%0A One of the best pumpkin varieties is ‘Autumn Gold', an All American Selections award winner. It's a medium-sized pumpkin at 7 to 10 lbs., early to color and early to harvest at 90 days. The seeds of Autumn Gold can be roasted for a crunchy, nutritious snack.%0A%0A Other medium-sized pumpkins I recommend are ‘Spirit', ‘Jack-0-Lantern', and ‘Harvest Moon'. Some of the best small pumpkins at 2 to 5 lbs. include: ‘Small Sugar', ‘Wee-B-Little', and ‘Spooktacular'. Some other recommended large pumpkins, 15 lbs. or larger include: ‘Connecticut', ‘Howden', and ‘Ghost Rider'. For the best selection of seed, check your favorite garden catalog or contact the garden seed suppliers directly over the Internet for fast ordering.%0A%0A Pumpkins grow best in a moist soil, rich in organic matter. If you are planting pumpkins in your garden, locate them at the edge of the garden plot where the vines can grow out and away from other garden plants. This will help conserve space. If you wish to prepare a small garden plot for planting pumpkins, mix in lots of organic matter. Bagged compost or manure works great to enrich the soil for planting. Mix as much as you can into the top 12 inches of soil. At the same time, also mix in 2 lbs. of ammonium phosphate or similar vegetable fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden bed.%0A%0A Pumpkins need a minimum of 40 to 100 square feet of growing space, depending on the variety. If your planting more than one pumpkin, space them 5 to 6 feet apart. Plant three to five seeds together one inch deep in the soil. Keep them evenly moist. You can help retain moisture by covering the soil with a layer of straw, compost or peat moss. When the seeds sprout, thin them to the best two plants. If your growing a miniature pumpkin, thin to the one best plant.%0A%0A If you don't have the garden space, then try planting in a bag of soil. Select a large 2 cubic ft. bag of quality potting soil and place it in a location that receives full sun during the morning but some shade in the afternoon. Turn the bag so that the white or lighter side is facing up. The sun's light will be reflected and the soil inside the bag will stay cooler. Poke several holes in the bottom of the bag for drainage.%0A %0A Next, cut a 6 inch diameter hole in the top center of the bag and moisten the soil in the bag. Plant your pumpkin seeds in the center of the hole. Add a drip emitter for watering. Keep the soil moist by watering daily. Feed twice weekly with a liquid fertilizer. As the seeds sprout, thin to two seedlings. As the vines grow they will cover up the bag and spread out into the surrounding area. I suggest using smaller growing pumpkin varieties for growing in bags.%0A%0A If you want to increase the size of your pumpkins, give them plenty of water fortified with liquid fertilizer. Remove the first two or three female flowers (the ones with the swollen ovaries) after the plants start to bloom. This will allow the plants to grow larger before setting fruit. Allow a single fruit to develop and pick off all female flowers that develop after this fruit has set on the plant. Do not allow the vine to root down at the joints near this developing fruit. The giant varieties develop so quickly and so large that they may actually break from the vine as they expand on a vine anchored to the ground.%0A%0A Pumpkins can be harvested whenever they are a deep, solid color (orange for most varieties) and the rind is hard. Cut pumpkins from the vines carefully, using pruning shears or a sharp knife, leaving three to four inches of the stem attached. Snapping the stems from the vines results in broken or missing "handles". Pumpkins without stems usually do not keep well.%0A%0A%0APumpkin Facts:%0A%0A Pumpkins are native to Central America.%0A%0A The name pumpkin originated from "pepon - the Greek work for "large melon". The French called them "pompon", the English changed "pompon" to "pumpion" and finally American colonists changed "pumpion" to "pumpkin".%0A%0A Colonists sliced off pumpkin tips; removed seeds and filled the insides with milk, spices and honey. This was baked in hot ashes and is the origin of pumpkin pie.%0A%0A In early colonial times, pumpkins were used as an ingredient for the crust of pies, not the filling.%0A%0A Pumpkin flowers are edible.%0A%0A Pumpkins are an excellent source of Vitamin A.%0A%0A%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona 520-626-5161. |June 27, 2001| 12|12|Seeds Get Vegetable Gardens Off to Early Start|If your planning to plant a vegetable garden this spring, now is the time to decide whether to start them from seed, or purchase transplants.%0A%0AMany gardeners like to start their plants from seed, because they can grow interesting and unusual varieties not available in the local garden stores. Mail order garden catalogs offer an overwhelming choice; many "tried and true" varieties are offered, while many others are brand new.%0A%0AGetting a jump on the season is another important reason for growing plants from seed. Warm season vegetables like tomatoes and eggplant are much more productive in mid to late spring. Extended summer heat here in the desert stresses these plants and reduces fruit production. Setting them out as early as possible will extend the harvest period of warm season crops.%0A%0ASome vegetables can be grown from seed in window sills, cold frames, or greenhouses for later planting out in the garden. These are the types that transplant easily and include; tomato, eggplant, onion, pepper, and okra. %0A%0AWhen growing seeds in containers for later transplanting, use prepared potting soil, jiffy mix or peat pots. You can make your own seed starting mix by combining equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. These ingredients are also available form garden supply stores. Peat pots, peat pellets, plastic cell packs, trays, egg cartons, and virtually clean container that will hold soil can be used to start seeds. Make sure the container has drainage holes.%0A%0ASmall seeds can be shattered over the soil surface and barely covered. Larger seeds can be planted individually or in groups of three and covered a little deeper. Later, the seedlings planted in groups of three can be thinned to leave the one most vigorous. %0A%0AWarm soil hastens seed germination. If your starting seeds indoors, set them in a warm location. Special heating mats are available from mail order garden catalogs. Heating cables contained in a rubber mat warms the soil some 15 to 20 degrees above the surrounding temperature. %0A%0ASome vegetable varieties cannot easily be transplanted and, therefore, should be sown directly in the garden. These include; bean, corn, cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, peas, squash, and watermelon.%0A%0A%0A%0AOptimum soil temperatures for the germination of most vegetable variety seed is about 80 degrees. Cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash, and okra seed prefer soil temperatures of 90 degrees. This means waiting to seed the garden until soil temperatures have at least risen into the 70 degree range. In the Tucson area that means waiting until the end of March.%0A%0AGarden soil must be prepared well prior to planting seeds. The soil should be tilled, and organic matter added. Desert compost, cotton burl compost, peat, or composted manure are all good types of organic matter that can be mixed with the soil. Incorporate a 4 inch layer of organic matter into the top 12 inches of garden soil. At the same time mix in 2 pounds of ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) or similar analysis fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden area. Organic fertilizers such as fish meal, bone meal, and blood meal may also be used.%0A%0ATill the soil thoroughly to break up all large soil clods. Rake the area to be seeded to provide a fine textured seed bed, free of rocks and other debris. Rake the soil out smoothly. Several days prior to planting water the soil thoroughly. This will settle the soil and provide a reservoir of moisture for germinating seeds.%0A%0APlant seeds at the depth and spacing called for on the seed packets. And after planting, keep the soil moist. If the soil drys during germination and establishment it can be fatal! Shading the soil with a few sheets of newspaper will help hold in moisture in during germination. Remember to check soil moisture daily and water as needed. When seeds sprout, promptly take off the newspaper covering.%0A%0AFor more information on Growing Plants from Seed, a program on the subject will be presented at the Pima County Cooperative Extension Center, beginning at 9:00 a.m. on Wednesday. The Extension Center is located at 4210 N. Campbell Avenue. Answers to gardening questions may be obtained by calling the Extension Center Plant Clinic, weekdays from 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. at 626-5161.|February 6, 2000| 13|13|Soil Solarization|Solarization is the safest and most effective means of controlling soil pest problems in home gardens. In many parts of the country where sunshine and warm temperatures are less abundant, solarization may not work. But here in Arizona, high solar radiation and lots of heat make soil solarization a snap!%0A%0A Solarization consists of covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4 to 6 weeks during a hot period of the year when the soil will receive maximum direct sunlight. When properly done, the top six inches soil will heat up to as high as 125 degrees. Over several weeks, that's hot enough to kill a wide range of soil inhabiting pests such as; wilt and root rot fungi, root knot nematodes and noxious weed seed. In addition, solarization stimulates the release of nutrients from organic matter present in the soil. It is especially effective for treating garden soils, where the intent is to plant vegetables, herbs, and flowers. %0A%0A Here in Tucson, the best time for solarization late spring. This is when solar radiation is at it's peak, and when soil temperatures are naturally their warmest. Ideally, solarization should begin in May and extend into June. Solarization should be complete by July, when monsoon clouds and rains begin to have a cooling effect on the soil. %0A%0A The first step in soil solarization is to till the area to be treated. It is necessary to break up soil clods and plant debris in order to enhance heat conduction through the soil. The soil surface should be raked smooth before covering with plastic. A fine soil surface will allow the plastic covering to be placed in close contact with the soil, with few air pockets to interfere with direct solar heating. %0A%0A Before applying the plastic covering the soil should be moistened. Wet soil conducts heat better that dry soil. Moisten the soil to a depth of one foot. This will enhance heat penetration through the potential rooting profile. Also, in moist soils, pest organisms are more active and thus more susceptible to the lethal effects of heat. In dry soils most pest organisms are dormant. %0A%0A Large sheets of plastic to use for solarization are available at hardware and home supply stores. Use clear polyethylene, not black plastic! Clear plastic produces higher soil temperatures faster than black plastic. Sunlight passes through clear plastic to heat the soil directly. Black plastic intercepts the light, and soil is heated primarily by conduction only where the plastic actually touches the soil. Some of the heat generated when sunlight hits black plastic is lost directly to the outside air.%0A%0A%0A%0A Thin plastic (1 to 2 mil) may permit more sunlight to penetrate to the soil. It has also been reported to favor more rapid and deeper control of soil-borne fungi than thicker plastic (6 mil). However, both eventually provide equal control and thicker plastic is less likely to tear.%0A%0A To install the plastic over the garden area to be solarized, first dig a trench around the garden perimeter. The trench need only be about 8 inches deep and 12 inches wide. It will be used to hold the plastic in place. %0A%0A Lay the plastic out so that it covers both the garden area and the surrounding trench. As the plastic is pulled tight, hold the plastic in place by covering it with soil in the trench. As you move around the perimeter covering the plastic, keep pulling it tight. A tight fit against the soil surface allows for better heating. Burying the edges will also prevent the wind from picking up the plastic tarp and blowing it off.%0A%0A Leave the plastic covering on for a minimum of 4 to 6 weeks. You can monitor soil temperatures under the plastic by placing a soil or compost thermometer through the plastic covering and into the soil. A dial thermometer with 5 inch probe can also be used. They are inexpensive and can be purchased at local hardware stores. Locate the thermometer close enough to the edge of the bed so that it can be read without walking on the plastic. Push it down five or six inches into the soil. Leave it in place during the entire solarizing process. The goal is to raise and maintain temperatures in the top 6 inches of soil to a level between 110 to 125 degrees F.%0A%0A When solarizing is complete, plant your bed with seed or healthy, uncontaminated plants. Do not mix untreated soil into the solarized bed. The less disturbance of the solarized soil before, and at the time of planting, the better. Raised beds can also be solarized in the same fashion as ground beds. %0A%0A Solarization is by far, the most effective way home gardeners have to reduce or eliminate soil-borne garden pests. The tangible benefits: healthier and more productive flower and vegetable gardens!%0A%0A The topic for this weeks garden demonstration will be "Turning Desert Soils Into Rich Garden Loam". It will be presented at the Pima County Extension Center, beginning at 9:00 a.m. on Wednesday and repeated that afternoon beginning at 1:00 p.m. at the Wilmot Library. These programs are free and open to the general public. Advanced registration is not required. The Extension Center is located at 4210 N. Campbell Avenue. Answers to gardening questions may be obtained by phoning the Extension Center Plant Clinic, weekdays for 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. at 626-5161. Green Valley residents my phone 648-0808, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. for answers to gardening questions.%0A|May 7, 2000| 14|14|Small Plants Provide Fast Growth!|In this age of instant gratification, we have a tendency to want immediate results. We can't wait for young landscapes to grow; for shrubs to reach full size and trees to mature. We want instant color in our flower beds and instant fruit from our vegetable gardens. To this end, we buy the largest plants we can possibly afford. But is there really an advantage in selecting large plants over smaller ones?%0A%0A We have a long growing season here in Tucson that extends from late February to mid November. As a result, plants have plenty of time to grow, and they do! Given the proper care of watering and fertilizing, small shrubs can become large and overpowering in just one season. The same is true for ground covers and perennial flowers. For this reason, why buy large nursery plants, when small ones will work just fine. By small, I am referring to shrubs in three or five gallon containers, and ground covers and perennial flowers in one gallon pots.%0A%0A Buying small not only saves money, it also saves the backaches of hauling, heavy lifting and large hole digging. Also, small plants are generally more energetic than large ones and will grow at a faster rate after planting. %0A%0A As for trees, the theory of buying small also applies. Numerous research studies have shown that small trees quickly outgrow large ones. In the case of trees, small ones are typically sold in five to 15 gallon plastic containers, while large ones are sold in 24 or 36 inch wood boxes.%0A%0A An example of how fast small trees can grow, can be seen here at the Extension Center. Many trees, of various types, were planted from small 15 gallon containers back in ‘92. At the time of planting they were only lightly branched, four to six feet tall, with nickel-sized trunk thickness. Now, just seven years later, the difference is amazing! From those little ash, mesquite, acacia, and desert willows have grown big trees with width and height of 20 to 30 feet and trunks a full 10 and 12 inches across! It's even been necessary to prune some to control their size. %0A%0A If both small 15 gallon and large boxed trees were planted together, research shows that we could expect the small trees to overtake and surpass the large ones in just four or five years. So is the higher cost of a larger tree really worth it? Probably not, if you can wait a few years. But for the impatient, larger trees will provide more immediate impact, short-lived all-be-it.%0A%0A Another advantage in planting small trees is when it comes to caliche. Many gardeners have hardpan caliche layers, something like concrete, in the soil. It's arduous work getting the caliche dug out to plant new trees. However, if there is at least 10 inches of soil over the caliche it need not be removed! %0A%0A Small trees, with their small root balls, can be planted right on top of the caliche. A few inches of the root ball may stick up above the surrounding grade. Simply cover the protruding part of the root ball by mounding soil around it. Then gradually taper the soil away to blend with the natural grade. This type of planting is called "mound planting", but when done properly it's hardly noticeable.%0A%0AAbout the only group of plants where size counts are the herbaceous types. These include annual flowers, vegetables and herbs. They all have delicate, fibrous roots that are slow to grow. The smaller "cell packs" of six or eight plants each, usually struggle when planted out. Plants grown in the larger three or four inch individual pots, tend to establish quicker and grow larger. %0A%0ASo the next time you go to your favorite garden center shopping for plants, don't overlook the small fries. They may be small to start, but in no time flat they'll be bigger than you had ever expected!%0A%0AAnswers to gardening questions may be obtained by phoning the Extension Center Plant Clinic, weekdays for 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. at 626-5161.%0A|November 22, 1998| 15|15|Still Time to Plant Tomatoes| The tomato is by far, the most popular home garden vegetable. People love to grow them because they taste so much better than the store-bought variety. But success with tomatoes here in the desert requires early planting.%0A%0A Although it's too late to start your own tomatoes from seed, there is still time to purchase tomato plants in the garden centers and get them into the garden.%0A%0A Of all the types of tomatoes now available for sale, I recommend "Celebrity", "Heat Wave", and "Early Girl". These are medium-sized tomatoes; proven producers here in the desert. Roma tomatoes also are a good choice. And if you you're the type of person who has trouble with garden plants, I suggest cherry and grape tomatoes. They will grow and produce despite your best efforts to the contrary.%0A%0A When you select plants from the garden center, choose the larger tomato plants. Larger plants have more roots and are more mature, which means they will flower and produce fruit before the extreme heat of Summer sets in.%0A%0A Make sure the plants you purchase are healthy. The stem should be green and covered with small hairs all the way down to the soil. If the base of the stem is brown and woody; don't buy it! Also, check the roots. Carefully invert the pot and slide the plant out. Pushing in on the sides of the pot will make the root ball slide out easier. You should be able to see an abundance of white of cream-colored roots on the outside edge of the soil. If the roots are black, brown, or gray - don't buy it!%0A%0A You have two choices when it comes to planting tomatoes. Either plant them in the ground, or in pots. Planting in the ground makes watering easier; but it will require you to prepare the soil by mixing in lots of organic matter. Compost, either bagged or bulk, is usually the easiest to find. Mix at least one-half compost with one-half garden soil. %0A%0A As well as organic matter, mix in one-quarter cup of vegetable fertilizer or ammonium phosphate into the soil around the plant. This will stimulate root growth, flowering and fruiting. If you are preparing an entire bed, incorporate 1 to 2 pounds of fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed area. In containers, use the one-quarter cup per plant recommendation.%0A%0A If you are growing you tomatoes in containers, you can simply purchase a good quality potting soil. The container should be at least 16 inches in diameter to accommodate one tomato. Containers made of wood or clay are best because they stay cooler than ones made of plastic. Never; absolutely never, plant in black nursery pots! The black heats up in the sun to temperatures that will bake the roots inside.%0A%0A When planting your tomato, plant it deep, so that the lower part of the stem is covered with soil. The hairs on the stem are actually root hairs and, when buried underground, will grow into new roots. This will jump-start you plant, getting it growing and producing quicker.%0A%0A You'll also need to stake the tomato to keep it from taking up too much space. As tomatoes can get large, use a wood stake one inch or thicker. Tie the tomato to the stake with green plant tape or velcro plant tape.%0A%0A One of the most important aspects of growing tomatoes is to keep the plants well watered. This means daily or twice daily watering after planting, then daily during hot weather. Tomatoes in pots need may require twice daily all season long. Your objective is to keep the soil evenly moist. Don't let it dry out, or keep it too wet. I like to use a moisture meter to check the soil moisture level. They're inexpensive and can be purchased at most garden centers and hardware stores. Just keep the needle in the moist range, half-way between wet and dry, and your tomatoes should thrive and produce and abundant crop!%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161.|March 31, 2002| 5|16|Blossom-end Rot Damaging Tomatoes And Peppers|%0A If you've noticed brown blotches on the bottom of your tomatoes, squash, peppers, apples, apricots and other assorted fruits and vegetables, your not alone. A disorder known as blossom-end rot has been occurring in many gardens throughout Tucson.%0A%0A The disorder causes the blossom-end, actually the bottom of the fruit, to develop a soft, brown or black sunken area. This area can be rather small, or can include upwards to half of the fruit. The disorder most often appears on immature fruit but can also appear on ripe fruit. The rot is not caused by a disease or insect, although a fungus can begin growing on the damaged tissue.%0A%0A The cause of blossom-end rot is actually caused by a calcium deficiency in the forming fruit. But it's not a lack of calcium that's the real problem. We have plenty of calcium in our desert soils. In fact, we have way to much calcium, which causes our soils to be very alkaline.%0A%0A The real problem behind blossom end rot is inconsistent watering. And more times than not, here in the desert, it's insufficient watering. If the soil drys between waterings or if the soil is kept moist then dry for a period of time the flow of calcium from the soil to the fruit is disrupted. This disruption, and resulting lack of necessary calcium causes blossom end rot to form.%0A%0A Be aware that when temperatures warm up rapidly, irrigation must be adjusted to meet the plants water needs. In cooler weather watering can be spaced two or three days apart. But with warmer weather we've been experiencing, daily watering is required! And when it gets really hot, in the upper 90's and 100's, twice daily watering may be necessary to keep the soil consistently moist. %0A%0A Along with frequent watering, using organic surface mulches is a good way to help prevent fluctuations in soil moisture. Compost, cedar bark mulch, straw or several layers of newspaper placed over the soil and around plants will provide valuable insulation and help hold in moisture. %0A%0A In addition to blossom-end rot, tomatoes may become infected with a disease called "curly top". %0A%0A %0A %0A Along with blossom-end rot, another common problem of vegetables and fruits in June is blossom and fruit drop. High temperatures, high winds and a lack of soil moisture contribute to this problem. Some vegetables, such as tomatoes and snap beans will drop blossoms when day temperatures are above 95 degrees. Corn tassels are often killed when temperatures are above 100 degrees. Injury to the tassels will reduce or prevent formation of kernels on the ear.%0A%0A Citrus trees will drop fruit in June. Some of this fruit drop is normal; a natural thinning of excess fruit. However, excessive fruit drop can be the result of insufficient watering. Apples and plums are also subject to this type of fruit drop.%0A%0A June is the month that requires the most attention to water needs. Hot, dry conditions sap plants of moisture, stressing them and creating problems for the formation of flowers and fruit. Check soil moisture levels on a regular basis, and make watering adjustments as necessary.%0A%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0A|May 26, 2002| 16|17|Look For "All American" Winners When Selecting Garden Plants|%0A Now is a great time to thumb through those spring garden catalogs in preparation for the spring planting season. As you do, be sure to check out those flower and vegetable varieties with a red, white and blue shield beside them. The shield designates the plant as an "All American Selections" award winning variety!%0A%0A Each year, impartial judges from across the country evaluate new varieties of flower, and vegetable varieties. There is also a separate category for roses. Varieties are submitted for evaluation by seed companies who feel they have an improved type of petunia, tomato or other garden plant. They are grown and tested in trail gardens under the supervision of impartial judges, approved by the AAS Board of Directors.%0A%0A To be judged an AAS Award Winner, the entry must be significantly improved over like varieties now on the market. Flowers are evaluated on the basis of novel flower forms, flower colors, flower show above foliage, fragrance, length of flowering season, and disease or pest%0Atolerances or resistance. Vegetables are judged looking for such traits as earliness to harvest, total yield, fruit taste, fruit quality, ease of harvest, plant habit, disease and pest resistance. The same varieties are evaluated by all judges in all trial gardens. Only the entries with the highest average score are considered to be worthy of an AAS Award.%0A%0A Although there are no AAS Trail Gardens in the Southwest (the closest is in California), many of the past award winners have preformed well here in Tucson. The ‘Profusion' series of zinnia, ‘Cosmic Orange' cosmos, ‘Juliet' tomato, ‘Eight-Ball' squash, ‘Super-Star' sweet onion, are all recent award winners that have preformed well here. %0A %0A Award winners for 2003 include several flower and vegetable varieties which hold promise for growing here in Tucson.%0A%0A ‘Blue Wave' Petunia is a new trailing petunia that grows and flowers well with minimal care. According to AAS sources, this variety requires no pinching or pruning to keep it in bloom for an extended time. It' low spreading profile makes it ideal for growing in hanging baskets and containers. It should be available in stores this spring. %0A%0A ‘Merlin Blue Morn" Petunia is another spreading petunia suited to hanging baskets and patio containers. AAS notes that it has a unique color pattern; pure white in the center with a soft transition to a velvety blue on the petal edge. The size of the blooms makes the color pattern show well from a distance.%0A%0A ‘Jaio Dark Red' Vinca has intense red blossoms, unusual for vinca, with a small white centers. According to trial results, this vinca is "not attractive to larger mammals such as deer". How that might translate to javelina is anyone's guess. It is also said to be extremely heat and drought tolerant, which certainly would be a selling point for us here in Tucson.%0A%0A%0A ‘Corona Cherry Magic' Dianthus is the first of it's kind to have a random bicolor pattern. The flower can be entirely cherry red, entirely lavender or a mosaic of both colors. The mixed color pattern would provide an interesting informal "wildflower-like' appearance to plantings of this dianthus. According to AAS, plants reach 7 to 9 inches tall with a spread of 8 to 12 inches. %0A%0A ‘Papaya Pear' Summer Squash has the shape of a beautiful golden-fruited papaya. The bright yellow squash are ready to harvest just 40 days after planting. They keep producing in abundance if the squash are harvested when still small (about 3 inches in size). As with most golden summer squash, the smaller fruit has the best quality. %0A%0A ‘Angel' Melon is an early Mediterranean-type melon. Information from AAS indicates the melon has a high sugar content when compared to other such melons and has a "very sweet flavor". The 2 to 3-pound melons have a white interior with a crisp texture. Another desirable characteristic of this melon, according to AAS, is that the netting on the skin of the melon lets gardens know when it's ready to harvest by turning "creamy yellow when mature". Angel's fruit mature in about 60 days from planting, significantly shorter than most other melons.%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0A|January 12, 2003| 17|18|Plant Onions Now for Spring Harvest|%0A February is the month for onion planting here in Tucson. We are lucky that our Winters are mild and conducive to growing the sweet onions most people refer to Vidalia onions. %0A%0A Vidalia and other sweet onion types, such as Texas Grano, Granex, and Sweet Spanish are short-day types. When grown from seed they are planted in the fall. But, it's much easier to purchase and grow small onion plants, from mail order garden plant catalogs. These "transplants" can be set out in the garden in February and harvested in May. Don't worry about freezing temperatures. Onions are hardy down to 20 degrees F. %0A%0A Onions prefer to be planted on a bed mounded or raised up a 3 or 4 inches high and about 20 inches wide. Two rows of onions, spaced 10 inches apart, can be planted down the bed. As with other vegetables, the bed should be in a location receiving full sun. The furrow should be about four inches deep. In the bottom of the furrow, scatter in a fertilizer rich in phosphorous, such as ammonium phosphate (16-20-0). Evenly spread one-half cup of fertilizer for every 10 feet of row. Phosphorous will greatly increase the growth and size of the onions. %0ADo not, however, add sulfur to the soil! Although other vegetables benefit from the mixing of sulfur into the soil, it will cause sweet onions to turn hot!%0A%0A Before planting the onion plants in the furrows, cover the fertilizer up with a two inch layer of soil. When onion plants arrive, plant them immediately. Set plants in the ground approximately one inch deep with a four inch spacing between plants. Firm the soil around the base of each plant, then water. Continue watering to keep the soil moist. The closer to harvest, the more water will be required.%0A%0A Onions also require regular fertilization with nitrogen. Use a nitrogen source such as ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate or urea. Do not use ammonium sulfate, because it contains sulfur that can cause the onions to be hot. Unfortunately, organic sources of nitrogen and phosphorous are not effective in the cooler months of February and March. %0A%0A Apply one-half cup of a nitrogen-containing fertilizer for every 10 feet of row. Scatter the fertilizer and lightly scratch it into the top of the soil. After fertilizing, apply water to soak the fertilizer into the soil. The first application of nitrogen should be made about three weeks after planting. Continuing fertilizing every 2 to 3 weeks. Discontinue fertilizing by mid-April, or when the neck of the onion (just above the bulb) starts feeling soft. Each fertilization should be followed with a thorough watering. %0A%0A As the onion bulb develops, loosen the soil around the expanding bulb to allow it room to grow. Be careful not to cut too far into the soil or too close to the bulb. It's important not to damage the bulb during cultivation. As it grows, the bulb will expand up and out. Do not cover the bulb with soil. It should be exposed above ground. At the time of harvesting, nearly half of the bulb may be above the soil. %0A%0A As onions mature, the leaves will begin to fall over at the base. As they do, reduce watering. The tops (leaves) will start turning brown. The onions are now ready to harvest. Because of their high moisture content, sweet onions will not store as long as other types of bulb onions. They will however, keep for a month or two if properly stored. Onions should remain dry and not touch one another. The best way to accomplish this is by placing them in a nylon stocking. Tie a knot between each onion to keep them apart. Hang the stocking in a cool, dry location. When your ready for one, simply cut off the bottom onion from the one above. Another way to store onions is to wrap them separately in foil and place them in the refrigerator.%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0A|February 2, 2003| 18|19|Start a Compost Pile with Spring Garden Clean-up|%0A%0A Spring gardening usually includes general clean-up activities like trimming shrubs and vines, removing old plants from the winter garden, and picking up leaves and other plant debris. With all this great organic matter, it's a perfect time to start a compost pile.%0A%0A Making a compost pile is easy. All it requires is some type of frame to hold in the garden waste, and the waste itself to compost. %0A%0A Compost frames can be made by forming a piece of fencing into a cylinder and holding it together with wire. Any type of fencing will work, be it wire or wood. Even chicken wire can be used if it is staked for support. The cylinder should be large enough to accommodate a pile of garden waste that is at least three feet in diameter and three feet high. You can also make a composting bin by stacking concrete block, adobe or other masonry block. The block bin should be at least three feet wide, three feet deep and three feet high. The top and front can be left open. This 3' x 3' x 3' volume of organic matter is necessary to provide the proper "heating" of the compost pile.%0A%0A Materials to compost can be a mixture of many types of organic matter. For the best composting it's desirable to have something called a good "carbon to nitrogen" ratio. These are the food sources for the microbes that actually provide the composting or decomposition of the material. A pile with carbon and nitrogen out of balance will either compost very slowly or will not have enough bulk to be of benefit when mixing into garden soil.%0A%0A Materials high in nitrogen include; vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, green leaves and needles, green garden plants, grass clippings, and various types of farm manures.%0A%0A Materials high in carbon include; wood chips and sawdust, bark, stems and branches, brown leaves, paper, straw and corn stalks. %0A%0A There are some materials that should not be composted. They include: meat and fish scraps, fats and oils, cheeses, bones, dog and cat waste, glossy print paper, plastic, and aluminum foil.%0A%0A When visualizing the composting process, picture millions of tiny "pac-men" munching their way through the compost pile. The more surface area there is for them to bite into, the faster they can do their work! That's why it's best to chop up the organic matter as fine as possible to increase the surface area and speed the composting. Fast composting is preferred over slow composting because the rapid work of the composters causes the internal temperature of the pile to heat up to 120 F and higher. High heat kills weed seed, pest insects and diseases and produces clean, pathogen-free compost.%0A%0A%0A%0A Chopping of the organic matter to be composted can be accomplished several ways. The easiest is by cutting up the material with scissors, knife or long-handled machete. Leafy materials and herbaceous plants (stems and all) can be run over with a mulching mower or shredded in a plastic trash can using a string trimmer. Woody stems and branches can be broken and chopped up with a hatchet or axe or run through a chipper-shredder. Safety goggles and heavy leather gloves should be worn during chopping and shredding work.%0A%0A Along with carbon, nitrogen and finely-shredded organic matter, composting requires oxygen and moisture. Composting without oxygen (anaerobic) turns organic matter slimy and very foul smelling. Composting without water drastically reduces the survival of microbe composters and thus greatly slows the composting process.%0A%0A Make sure that the sides of the composting frame you select has plenty of openings for oxygen to enter. If you construct your frame with masonry blocks, leave spaces or gaps between the block to allow air to filter into the sides of the pile. %0A%0A Moisten the pile thoroughly and add more water from time to time to keep the pile moist. The pile should not be soggy wet. To test the moisture level, after applying water pick up a hand-full of compost and wring it out in your hand. If water runs out, it is too wet. Let it dry out, and add enough water to keep the soil most, but not soggy. Because of our high spring and summer temperatures, it may be difficult to maintain moisture. This will not prevent the composting, but it may slow the process. %0A%0A During the first few weeks of the composting process, the internal temperature of the pile will heat up to 120 F or higher. This temperature can be measured with a long-probe composting thermometer pushed into the center of the pile. Composting thermometers can be purchased from garden suppliers over the internet. I suggest a search at: google.com. A shorter probe candy thermometer may also be used by digging down to the center and then inserting the probe.%0A%0A When the temperature in the center begins to drop, it's time to turn the pile. This will move the material on the outer edge of the pile into the center where it will also heat up and compost. After the pile has been turned and the composting of the inner material has completed, the compost is ready to be used. %0A%0A Compost, fondly referred to as gardeners gold, is ideal for mixing into garden beds. It will greatly improve clay and sandy soils alike. Compost can be used to fill raised-bed planters, and is great mixed with potting soil or used alone to fill pots and containers for growing plants of all types. It's a fun way to turn your garden and landscape waste into a valuable garden product and, best of all, it's free! For more information on composting; I have recently produced a video through the University of Arizona "Compost: Materials, Containers, and Methods", that is available for purchase by phoning: 1-877-763-5315 (toll free) or in the Tucson area at: 318-7275. %0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0A|March 30, 2003| 19|20|Seeding Winter Vegetables Directly into the Garden|With warm weather ushering in the fall gardening season, there is no need to start your vegetable seeds in trays, pots or flats. Just plant them directly into the garden to save time and effort.%0A%0A Most vegetables for fall and winter planting do just fine grown from seed planted in the garden bed. These seeded types include; lettuce, chard, spinach, carrots, beets, radishes, peas and cabbage. %0A%0A To have success starting seed directly in the garden, soil preparation is a must! First in the process is to mix lots of organic matter into the soil. The best types are bagged compost, bagged and composted manure, and potting soils high in peat. For the purpose of mixing into the ground, purchase the least expensive and largest bag size of potting or top soil.%0A%0A Don't skimp on organic matter! Regardless of the type your using, at a minimum mix a 4 inch layer of organic matter into the top 12 inches of soil. If your working the soil for the first time, you will have to remove any rocks and break up any hard chunks of soil. Till the organic matter in with a garden spade or shovel. It is important to loosen the soil and thoroughly mix in the organic matter. The object is to create loose, loamy garden-type soil conducive to the growth of tender vegetable plant roots. %0A%0A At the time of seed bed preparation, also mix into the top 12 inches of soil a high phosphorous fertilizer, such as ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) at the rate of 2 -3 pounds per 100 square feet of bed area. Phosphorous stimulates root development and the nitrogen (16%25) contained in ammonium phosphate will stimulate growth of the cool season leafy vegetables. Other fertilizers containing both nitrogen and phosphorous may be substituted for ammonium phosphate.%0A%0A After raking and leveling the garden bed, create a smooth surface to plant seeds. The flat side of a garden rake is great for removing small rocks and clumps of soil. Water the bed with a gentle shower of water using a garden hose attachment. Water enough to wet the soil down to a depth of 12 inches. %0A%0A A smooth seed-bed surface can also be created by spreading a thin layer of sand over the area to be seeded. This is critical for small seeds such as carrots and radishes that must have good contact with fine soil particles to sprout properly.%0A%0A It is important to plant seeds at the proper depth. Planting too deep will prevent seeds from pushing up through the soil surface. Just barely cover small seeds such as carrots with just one-quarter inch of soil. Medium seeds should be covered no deeper than three-quarter inch. Follow instructions on the seed packet for planting depth and spacing.%0A%0A%0A Cover seeds with a fine layer of sand or soil. It's best to run soil through a flour sifter to make sure it is finely screened. Sift back and forth over the seeds until the proper coverage has been achieved. For larger seeds it may be necessary to create a furrow to place the seeds in prior to covering.%0A%0A After the seeds have been covered, water small seeds with a misting bottle to keep from disturbing them or washing them away. Larger seeds can be watered with a gentle shower from a hose attachment. To hold in moisture until the seeds germinate, cover with toilet paper, burlap or newspaper a single sheet thick. Keep the covering moist until the seeds germinate. Toilet paper may be left on. As the seedlings emerge they will push up through it. Burlap or newspaper however must be removed as soon as the seeds germinate.%0A%0A It is critical not to allow the soil to dry out during seed germination and as the seedlings are growing. This is the most important time for watering! It may be necessary to thin the seedlings to the required spacing. Do this by cutting the excess seedlings off at the ground with a scissors. Do not pull the seedlings up as this could damage the surrounding plants. Continue watering on a regular basis, keeping the soil evenly moist, but not wet.%0A%0A "Garden Roses" will be the topic for this week's garden demonstrations. They will be presented on Wednesday at 9 a.m. at the Pima County Extension Center, 4210 N. Campbell Ave (central); and at 1 p.m. at the Wilmot Library (east), and on Friday at 1 p.m. at the Oro Valley Public Library (northwest). %0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0A|September 28, 2003| 2|21|Tomatoes Need Support for Best Results|There are three cultural systems for growing garden tomatoes. They include; untrained and sprawling, staked and tied, and caged. Each system has it's advantages and disadvantages. Choose the system that works best in your garden situation.%0A%0A Tomatoes can be allowed to sprawl on the ground. The advantage to this method is that the tomatoes are more productive. Yields can be as high as 25 pounds of tomatoes per bush. The fruit are not particularly large, but they are numerous. %0A%0A When tomatoes are allowed to sprawl, a mulch must be placed over the soil underneath plants. This prevents the fruit from laying directly on the soil where it is exposed to insects and soil fungi. Straw mulch is best for tomatoes. It is soft, light and airy; keeping the fruit cushioned and dry. Straw bales can be purchased at local feed stores. A bale goes a long way, so if you have just a few tomato plants most feed stores will sell you a smaller amount of loose straw. Bring your own bag(s) to fill up. Straw is great for mulching other summer vegetables too.%0A%0A Letting your tomatoes sprawl has it's drawbacks. For instance, they take up lots of garden space; maybe more than you have to spare. Also, here in the desert, tomatoes grown in a sprawling fashion are more directly exposed to mid-day sun. This can cause tomatoes to become sunburnt. The fruit most exposed to direct sunlight will develop a large, buff-colored blotch. A rot may then develop in this damaged portion of the fruit.%0A%0A Tomatoes can also be trained by staking and tying. Place the stake in the ground at the time of planting or shortly after so as not to do damage the roots. The stake should be located within a few inches of the main stem. Use a stake large enough and tall enough to support the weight and height of your plants. Tomatoes can grow up to five feet tall and three feet wide. Large wooden poles of the kind used for staking young trees also work very well for supporting tomatoes.%0A%0A Tie the main stem of the tomato to the stake using soft cord or stretchable plastic plant ties. The Velcro Company has come out with convenient and reusable velcro plant ties that also work very well. To prevent the stem from being held tightly against the stake, loop the tie around the stem. Then tie it on the stake providing some slack in the line.%0A%0A Staked tomatoes grown in milder climates are often pruned by removing the suckers. This should not be done here! Removing the suckers will reduce the number of shade providing leaves, exposing the fruit to sunburn.%0A%0A The great advantage to staking tomatoes is conservation of space. Fruits are larger and easier to pick, however, the number of fruit and total yield is smaller than with sprawling or caging. Staking works best on vining types of tomatoes.%0A%0A Growing tomatoes in cages may be the best compromise between letting your plants run free or staking them tightly. Most varieties are suitable for caging. Yields are nearly as great as if plants are allowed to sprawl and fruit ripens the best in hot weather, a distinct advantage in desert gardening.%0A%0A Tomato cages can be purchased at local garden and home supply stores. I prefer the straight-sided type with wide openings for easy picking. The cone-shaped cages just aren't very sturdy and the openings are too small to get the tomatoes out. You can make your own tomato cage by forming a piece of concrete reinforcing wire or wide-mesh fencing into a cylinder about 3 feet wide. Taller cages will require a stakes or a post for support.%0A%0A Regardless of the type of growing system you incorporate, always mulch under your tomato plants. Mulching keeps the soil cooler and helps hold in moisture. This helps to prevent fruit cracking and blossom-end-rot by keeping soil moisture levels even. Organic mulches such as straw and bagged or home compost work best.%0A%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. |April 18, 2004| 20|22|Worms Attack Fall Vegetable Gardens|Many home gardeners here in Southern Arizona. like planting and growing cool season vegetables in the fall. Broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, chard, kale many types of bib and leaf lettuce grow and produce well during the cool months. But gardeners need to be alert to some voracious worms that also thrive in our fall gardens.%0A%0A The first garden pest of concern is the cutworm. This insect is a dull grayish brown worm, about 2 inches long when fully grown. Cutworms are larvae of dull-colored moths of various species. They feed, mostly on young vegetable plants, by crawling over the ground until they run into a young juicy stem. They then proceed to eat through the stem at ground level causing the young plant to fall over and die. %0A%0A Cutworms feed at night and hide in the mulch or under stones or lumps of soil during the day. At night you may be able to find them using a flashlight. But even if you find some of the cutworms and destroy them, you may miss others. So the best control is to protect the young seedling plants themselves by providing a barrier to the cutworms. %0A%0A Since they crawl along the ground to do their feeding, placing an obstruction between them and the stems of your seedling vegetables will ward off the cutworms. Make a barrier by using a paper or Styrofoam cup. Cut the bottom out of the cup and place it over the each young vegetable plant. Push the edge of the cup into the soil an inch or so. This will hold the cup firmly in place around the plant and prevent the cutworm from pushing it out of the way. %0A%0A These cup rings should be placed around all vegetable plants at the time of planting or when seedlings emerge from the ground. After the young plants have grown for a couple of weeks, the cup rings can be removed. At this point, the stems will be too large and tough for the cutworms to eat. %0A%0A The second insect that is a frequent visitor to fall gardens of the Southwest is the cabbage looper. This caterpillar grows to about 2 inches long, is light green with white stripes down the length of the body. It has three pairs of true legs behind the head, plus three pairs of false legs at the abdomen end. This arrangement of legs causes the caterpillar to crawl with a “looping motion, similar to that of an inchworm. %0A%0A Adults of the cabbage worms are mottled grayish-brown moths. They lay their eggs on the leaves, either singly or in small clusters. The adult moths are nocturnal, so don’t expect to see them in the garden laying their eggs. Their greenish-white eggs hatch in a few days and the larvae begin feeding on the undersides of leaves, moving towards the center of the plant. On cabbage they eat into the center of the head.%0A%0A Because these worms blend so well with the color of leaves they’re very difficult to spot. So it’s easy to miss some if hand-picking control measures are used. For this reason, and the fact that they can be numerous, the best method of control is to spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, commonly known as ‘BT’. %0A%0A Because BT is a bacteria only active in caterpillars it has no harmful effects on beneficial insects, animals or the environment. When ingested by the caterpillar it acts by causing the cessation of feeding. Even though cabbage worms may live on a day or two after the application of BT, they will not continue to eat.%0A%0A When applying BT, be sure to spray the undersides of leaves. That is primarily where the worms will be feeding.%0A%0A As there can be several generations of cabbage loopers throughout the fall and winter months, additional applications of BT may be needed. Inspect your vegetable garden frequently for evidence of the presence of cabbage loopers, then spray as needed. %0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. |October 3, 2004| 21|23|Growing Summer Squash| If you’re thinking about growing some vegetables in your back yard for the first time, then I would recommend summer squash. Of all the warm season vegetables they’re probably the easiest to grow and produce the most edible fruit. They’re also very heat tolerant, just as long as you supply them with adequate water. %0A%0A Summer squash grow on bush-type plants. Unlike Winter squash that vine and are eaten when the fruit is mature, Summer squash are harvested immature while the outer rind is still soft. %0A%0A The three main types of Summer squash include the yellow straight neck or crooked neck; the white scallop or patty pan; and the oblong green, grey or gold zucchini. These are available at local garden centers in small pots ready to plant out in the garden. %0A%0A Summer squash grow best in a soil that’s been amended with lots of organic matter. To prepare and area for planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches by turning it with a spade. Remove stones and rocks and mix in generous amounts of peat, compost, bagged manure or organic potting soil. At a minimum, mix a 4 inch layer of organic matter into the top 12 inches of soil. In addition to organic matter, mix in 1 to 2 pounds of ammonium phosphate or other vegetable garden fertilizer and 2 to 5 pounds of soil sulfur for every 100 square feet of garden bed.%0A%0A If your soil is gravelly and rocky, it will be easier to construct a raised bed that can be filled with bagged top soil, potting soil, compost or a mixture of these. A raised bed frame can be constructed by stacking concrete block or decorative interlocking retaining block , 12 to 18 inches high. Old railroad ties, slump block and stone will also work as framing materials.%0A%0A Prior to planting, wet the soil thoroughly using a gentle shower from a watering wand or similar hose attachment. At the time of planting, loosen the outer edge of the root ball to encourage roots to grow out into the surrounding soil. Space Summer squash 2 to 3 feet apart. A word of caution - one plant will produce many fruit, so don’t over-plant unless you intend to give lots of squash to friends and neighbors!%0A%0A Daily watering is a must during the months of May and June. A simple automatic watering system can be created by hooking a line up to a nearby outdoor hose bib. With a battery operated irrigation controller, available at hardware and home supply stores, you can have the water turn on daily for the time you designate. %0A%0A The controller and a pressure reducer connect on to the hose bib. From the reducer, you can insert one-half inch poly tubing and run it to the garden. Finally, to deliver water to your plants, I recommend one-quarter inch in-line drip emitter tubing. The drip emitters are built into the tubing every 6 inches. Run the tubing down and around your plants. %0A%0A An alternative to drip tubing is standard soaker hose. It can be connected directly on to the battery operated controller without the addition of a pressure reducer. Soaker hose will last several seasons before becoming clogged with mineral deposits.%0A%0A Squash, along with melons and cucumbers, have a flowering habit unique among vegetables. They develop separate male and female flowers on the same plant. In order for fruit to develop, pollen must be transferred from male to female flowers. The pollen is sticky and is normally transferred by bees; however this often does not occur. So, hand pollinating is the easiest and best way to ensure fruit development and it’s easy to do.%0A%0A When flowers develop, determine which are the male and female flowers by looking at the flower base. Female flowers can be recognized easily by the presence of a miniature fruit (ovary) at the base of the flower. The male squash flower can be identified by it’s long, slender stem. The female flower sets on a very short stem. Using a small artist’s paint brush, remove the yellow pollen from the male flower and brush it on the stigma in the center of the female flower. When hand-pollinating, it’s important to use only freshly opened flowers. Flowers open in the early morning and are receptive for only one day. %0A%0A Don’t be discouraged if your plant(s) lack female flowers. All the early flowers will be males. Female flowers develop somewhat later, so be patient but be ready to hand-pollinate when female flowers do appear. |May 1, 2005| 22|24|New Year - New Award Winning Flowers & Vegetables|Every year since 1932, seed producers of flowers and vegetables across American have submitted their best varieties in a competition to determine the ‘best of the best’. Out of hundreds of varieties evaluated, only a hand full are good enough to receive the designation ‘All American Selection’. To win, varieties must, in the eyes of impartial judges, be determined to be significantly superior to like varieties currently being grown.%0A%0A Flowers are evaluated on the basis of novel flower forms, flower colors, flower show above foliage, fragrance, length of flowering season, and disease or pest tolerances or resistance. Vegetables are judged looking for such traits as earliness to harvest, total yield, fruit taste, fruit quality, ease of harvest, plant habit, disease and pest resistance. %0A%0A Today, there are 35 Trial Gardens across the county where new varieties are judged annually. There are also nearly 200 All American Selections Display Gardens, one of which is in Tucson, here at the UA / Pima County Extension Demonstration Gardens located at 4210 N. Campbell Ave. The current years A.A.S. winners are displayed as well as those award recipients from the past 5 years. The new 2006 winners include:%0A%0A Pepper ‘Carmen’ has an unusual shape for a sweet pepper. It’s long and pointed, like a horn, rather than the typical bell pepper shape. It’s also very flavorful and sweet, even when at the immature green stage. It ripens to red in 75 days, so it’s ideal for planting early in the spring and harvesting before our desert heat sets in.%0A%0A Ornamental Pepper ‘Black Pearl’ is an unusual garden plant because both it’s leaves and fruits are black. Of course the leaves are not totally black, but a dark crimson approaching black! The peppers are black, but when ripe, turn bright red, adding extra color interest. As with most peppers, ‘Black Pearl’ is very heat tolerant and makes a great container plant. It looks great combined with dusty miller, santolina or other silver-leaved plants. %0A%0A Zinnia ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ is unique for it’s bicolor flower pattern - scarlet-rose centers and yellow petal edges. As with zinnias in general, ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ is very heat tolerant, ideal for summer plantings here in Arizona. It’s ideal for containers and cutting for bouquets. The University of Maryland conducted studies indicating ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ has a vase-life of up to 2 weeks!%0A%0A Salvia ‘Evolution’ offers a new color for a Salvia farinacea cultivar - lilac! Also known as mealy cup sage, ‘Evolution’ is not only well adapted to growing in flower beds and containers, but also in landscapes here in the desert Southwest. It’s native to Texas and Mexico, and can be grown as an annual or perennial. ‘Evolution’ is relatively small as sage go, growing to a height and spread of 18 inches. %0A%0A Nicotiana ‘Perfume Deep Purple’ offers something we have far too little of in gardens these days - fragrance! A perfect flower to be enjoyed in the evening garden; Perfume Deep Purple is unique among flowering tobaccos, with deep purple star-shaped flowers, and a fragrance that fills the night air! Plants stay a compact 20 inches and bloom continually without pinching or dead-heading. In the desert, afternoon shade should be provided during the summer.%0A%0A As you thumb through garden and seed catalogs, All American Award winners will be marked by a distinctive red, white and blue AAS Shield. %0A%0A %0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161.|January 8, 2006| 23|25|Winter Fertilization of Gardens and Container Plants|Our landscape plants are in a dormant state during the cool winter months and won’t start new growth until well into March. They don’t need, nor should they be fertilized until spring growth begins. But that’s not the case with winter lawns, seasonal vegetable and flower gardens, and patio container plants. All need a regular supply of nutrients, in the form of fertilizer, to keep them flowering, fruiting, and growing during the winter.%0A%0A For those who have winter lawns, monthly fertilization with nitrogen is a must. To keep your cool season perennial ryegrass green and growing, apply one-half pound of actual nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet of lawn area. For a typical lawn fertilizer containing about 20%25 nitrogen, this translates to two and one-half pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. Most lawn fertilizers will tell you how much to use and how to set your fertilizer spreader. If the lawn product you select has some timed-release nitrogen, all the better! Timed or slow release nitrogen will feed the lawn evenly, providing a more consistent green color. %0A%0A Vegetable gardens also need nitrogen through the winter months. Cool season veggies include leafy types like lettuce, spinach, chard, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower. If plants are growing too slowly or are yellowish, nitrogen should be applied. If your vegetables are planted in rows, spread a dry fertilizer down the row at the outer edge of the leaves. Ammonium sulfate (16-20-0) or a complete vegetable fertilizer can be used at the rate of one-half cup fertilizer per 10 feet of vegetable row. If your fertilizing individual vegetable plants, apply one tablespoon of fertilizer for small plants like lettuce and spinach and two tablespoons for broccoli and cauliflower. After spreading the fertilizer, scratch it in to the top few inches of soil, then water. %0A%0A Flower beds of pansies, petunias, stock and other winter annuals should be fertilized every 6 weeks after planting with ammonium phosphate or a flowering plant fertilizer. Apply one pound (approximately 2 cups) of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of bed area. Or you can use a water-soluble plant food such as Peters or Miracle Gro every 2 weeks, diluted according to directions. %0A%0A For flowers or vegetables planted in containers, I prefer using a timed-release fertilizer. They’re sold in bags and plastic bottles. Most are resin-coated products which break down slowly, releasing their nutrients over a 2 to 3 month period. You just sprinkle the fertilizer beads over the soil and with each watering, a small amount of the nutrients are released. For other plants growing in containers, I prefer a water soluble plant food for winter feeding. Potted cactus won’t need any winter fertilization. For perennials and woody ornamental plants growing in pots, just feed them if they seem to be yellowing from a lack of nitrogen. Then as spring approaches, apply a timed-release plant food.%0A%0A Winter yellowing can occur on a number of plants. Some, such as Citrus and Aleppo pines are normal for the season. For these trees, cool temperatures result in an inability to absorb sufficient nitrogen to keep leaves and needles green. Citrus trees will have a scattering of yellow leaves. With pine trees, the yellowing or browning occurs on the outermost shoots. When warm weather returns in the spring, nitrogen is again absorbed by the roots and this temporary winter ‘yellowing’ disappears.%0A%0A %0AGarden centers and nurseries here in Tucson and throughout Southern Arizona stock a wide array of plants. Not all of them are well-suited to the desert. In fact, a large number of the varieties of plants for sale are not true desert plants and may require significant amounts of water to survive our harsh, often drought-stressed environment.%0A%0A Before purchasing plants this spring, do your homework. Find out whether the plant(s) your thinking about purchasing are desert native, desert adapted or water-dependant exotic species.%0A%0A Desert native plants will require the least amount of care. Once established these plants can survive on what Mother Nature provides in terms of water and nutrients. Even during periods of drought native plants will survive; either by going drought dormant or by self-pruning to reduce moisture loss. Prickly pear cactus shed their outermost pads. Palo verde drop leaves, stems, sometimes even branches to reduce their water needs. %0A%0A There are a wide variety of Southwest desert natives to choose from. Selections of trees include; Blue, Foothills, and Desert Museum Palo Verdes, Arizona Rosewood, Catclaw Acacia, Texas Honey Mesquite and Ironwood. Some good choices of desert shrubs are; Creosote Bush, Chuparosa, Autumn Sage, Fairy Duster, Texas Rangers, and Brittlebush.%0A %0A Desert-adapted plants are those able to tolerate our desert environment in terms of heat and drought tolerance. But during hot, dry periods they will require periodic irrigation. Selections of these desert-adapted trees include; South American Mesquites, Texas Honey Mesquite, Sweet Acacia, Western Soapberry, Gregg Ash, and Kidneywood. Some desirable desert-adapted shrubs include; Yellow Oleander, Red and Yellow Birds-of-Paradise, Emu Bush, Feathery Senna, Poverty Bush, Bush Lantana and Mexican Honeysuckle. %0A%0A In addition to trees and shrubs for low water use desert landscapes, cacti and succulents are also great choices. Native Saguaro, Barrel, Hedgehog and Prickly Pear Cacti need little attention after establishment. Agaves are also great drought-tolerant plants for desert landscapes. Some of the best for home gardens include; Octopus Agave, Hauachuca agave, Twin-flowered agave and Holly agave. %0A%0A For landscape color, there are many desert perennials to choose from. Those that can manage on just one watering per month during hot weather include; Penstemon, Angelita Daisy, Desert Marigold, Desert Zinnia, and Paper Flower. Perennials that need a little more frequent watering (every week or two) include; Peruvian Verbena, Calylophus, Chocolate Flower, Golden Dyssodia and Guara. %0A %0A In general, plants that use the most water are annual flowers like petunias, geraniums, zinnias and marigolds. It’s best to limit the use of these flowers to a few pots for seasonal color on the patio. Summer vegetables like tomatoes are also high water users, so if your planting a garden, limit it’s size or grow your vegetables in containers.%0A When shopping at local garden centers and nurseries it’s best to avoid unfamiliar varieties of plants that don’t have the ‘desert look’. Plants with lots of large, soft leaves are probably not adapted to desert conditions. Many of these plants come from wholesale nurseries in California and are best suited to their milder growing conditions. %0A%0A Consult reference books and internet sources for listings of additional recommended desert plants and their watering requirements. Among the best books to consult are: Landscape Plants for Dry Regions, by Jones and Sacamano; and Plants for Dry Climates by Duffield and Jones. An on-line data base of recommended desert landscape plants for Southern Arizona is available at: www.ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening.%0A%0A %0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. |December 25, 2005| 24|26|Expand Your Options - Grow Garden Plants from Seed|%0A Many home gardeners limit themselves to growing flower and vegetable varieties they can purchase as small plants in the garden centers. The problem is, most garden centers have a very limited number of varieties to offer. Even their seed racks offer a limited choice and often include varieties that aren’t well-suited to the Southwest. And if your looking for transplants for your spring garden, they’re usually available in the stores too late to get a jump on our hot weather! The solution to these problems is to order varieties from quality garden catalogs and grow your plants from seed.%0A%0A Start now, by looking through garden seed catalogs to find heat-tolerant and early ripening varieties. You may also obtain a list of recommended vegetable varieties for Southern Arizona by sending a stamped, self-addressed envelope to Garden Seed, 4210 N. Campbell Ave, Tucson, 85719. %0A%0A It’s not difficult to grow your own flower and vegetable plants from seed. Starting them indoors in the next few weeks will insure you’ll have small plants ready to set out in the garden by early March. %0A%0A When you receive your seed, read and follow all label directions. You can plant seed in special pots and trays made for seed propagation, or use containers you have around the house. Egg cartons, the bottoms of milk cartons and plastic liter soda bottles, styrafoam and paper cups, and clean pots are just a few of the items you can use. Be sure to put drainage holes in all container you intend to use.%0A%0A Fill your seed-starting containers with a prepared seed-starting mix, available at garden stores, or mix your own using equal parts of peat moss and vermiculite. In addition, vermiculite used alone makes a good medium for starting small seeds. %0A%0A Watering to keep the soil moist after seeding should be done using a misting bottle to prevent disturbing the seed or soil. Never let the soil dry out! Seeds will fail to germinate and seedlings will die if the soil isn’t kept evenly moist. To help hold in moisture, cover the seed containers with tents made of clear plastic trays or plastic wrap. After seedlings emerge, poke some holes in the plastic covers to prevent heat build-up and allow excess moisture to vent out. Gradually remove the covers to condition the plants to drier air. But, always keep the soil moist!%0A%0A If window space is not available, grow seedlings under artificial lighting. The combination of one warm white and one cool white florescent tube in a utility fixture is best at reproducing natural sunlight. Keep florescent tubes just a few inches above the seedlings to provide sufficient light intensity.%0A%0A Warm soil hastens seed germination. If your starting seeds indoors, set them in a warm location. A sunny window is the best. Using special heating mats, available from local garden stores and mail order garden catalogs, do a good job of keeping the soil consistently warm, even overnight. %0A%0A Whether growing your seedlings in sunlight of artificial lighting, if they notice the seedlings growing tall and thin, increase the amount of light. Weekly applications of a water soluble plant food (at half-strength) will keep the seedlings green and growing.%0A%0A Finally, some vegetables grown from seed cannot be easily transplanted. These include; bean, corn, cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash, and watermelon. Rather that starting them indoors, they should be sown in directly in warm garden soils, beginning in May. %0A%0A %0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. %0A|January 29, 2006| 25|27|How to Stimulate Root Growth of Garden & Landscape Plants|Plant roots are the foundation of plant growth, from the smallest flower to the largest tree. They hold plants in place and absorb the water and nutrients necessary for growth. If roots aren’t heathy and vigorous, the plant will be weak and may eventually die. But roots can be stimulated and encouraged to grow by following just a few simple steps.%0A%0A Regardless of the plant, at the time of planting, the outer edge of the root ball should be scratched, scuffed or in some fashion, roughened. The object is to loosen and pull some of the root tips out from their tight adhesion to the root ball. In so doing, these roots will immediately begin growing into the surrounding soil after planting hastening the plant’s establishment.%0A%0A For small plants like annual flowers and vegetables in 2 to 4 inch pots, this pulling of the roots is best done with a table fork. The root ball should not be pulled apart, but the edge of the ball and outer roots should be scratched enough to loosen the roots. For larger herbaceous garden plants or woody landscape plants in one gallon size and up, I prefer using a standard three-pronged garden fork to loosen the outer edges of the root ball. %0A%0A Don’t worry if in the process of loosening the root ball, some of the roots are torn off. This will happen, especially on the small, fine-rooted herbaceous plants. New roots will form where the old roots tore away. In fact, many roots will branch and form multiple roots to replace the ones lost. This root branching will increase plant vigor! %0A%0A For larger landscape trees and shrubs, in addition to scratching and pulling the finer roots, it will be necessary to cut larger circling roots when present. Any finger-sized roots circling the outer edge of the root ball should be cut off with a sharp knife or hand pruners. If not removed, these large circling roots will cause the plant to be stunted and poorly anchored. %0A%0A To encourage rooting of garden plants including flowers and vegetables, mix lots of organic matter into the bed at the time of planting. The organic matter can be bagged topsoil, potting soil, peat, bagged compost or manure. In addition, mix in a fertilizer high in phosphorous such as ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) or bonemeal (4-22-0) at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet of garden bed area. Mix the fertilizer into the top 12 inches of soil. %0A%0A Phosphorous is the only substance that can be mixed into the soil to directly stimulate root growth. Other products marketed to promote root growth, such as Vitamin B-1, work under controlled laboratory conditions but are not effective when used in gardens and landscapes.%0A%0A Although garden beds should be amended with organic matter, if your digging to plant individual plants (trees, shrubs, vines, etc.) do not add organic amendments. Both native and non-native landscape plants should be planted directly back into the soil removed from the planting hole. Creating a rich soil in the planting hole may sound like a good idea, but it’s not! Rather than encouraging roots to grow, a hole with organic amendments creates a ‘pot-in-the-ground’ from which roots have a very difficult time escaping. Just be sure to dig a hole 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball. This will loosen the soil and is the best way to encourage roots to expand out rapidly from the root ball.%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161.|April 9, 2006| 26|28|New Year - New Award Winning Flowers & Vegetables| Every year since 1932, seed producers of flowers and vegetables across American have submitted their best varieties in a competition to determine the ‘best of the best’. Out of hundreds of varieties evaluated, only a hand full are good enough to receive the designation ‘All American Selection’. To win, varieties must, in the eyes of impartial judges, be determined to be significantly superior to like varieties currently being grown.%0A%0A Flowers are evaluated on the basis of novel flower forms, flower colors, flower show above foliage, fragrance, length of flowering season, and disease or pest tolerances or resistance. Vegetables are judged looking for such traits as earliness to harvest, total yield, fruit taste, fruit quality, ease of harvest, plant habit, disease and pest resistance. %0A%0A Today, there are 35 Trial Gardens across the county where new varieties are judged annually. There are also nearly 200 All American Selections Display Gardens, one of which is in Tucson, here at the UA / Pima County Extension Demonstration Gardens located at 4210 N. Campbell Ave. The current years A.A.S. winners are displayed as well as those award recipients from the past 5 years. The new 2006 winners include:%0A%0A Pepper ‘Carmen’ has an unusual shape for a sweet pepper. It’s long and pointed, like a horn, rather than the typical bell pepper shape. It’s also very flavorful and sweet, even when at the immature green stage. It ripens to red in 75 days, so it’s ideal for planting early in the spring and harvesting before our desert heat sets in.%0A%0A Ornamental Pepper ‘Black Pearl’ is an unusual garden plant because both it’s leaves and fruits are black. Of course the leaves are not totally black, but a dark crimson approaching black! The peppers are black, but when ripe, turn bright red, adding extra color interest. As with most peppers, ‘Black Pearl’ is very heat tolerant and makes a great container plant. It looks great combined with dusty miller, santolina or other silver-leaved plants. %0A%0A Zinnia ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ is unique for it’s bicolor flower pattern - scarlet-rose centers and yellow petal edges. As with zinnias in general, ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ is very heat tolerant, ideal for summer plantings here in Arizona. It’s ideal for containers and cutting for bouquets. The University of Maryland conducted studies indicating ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ has a vase-life of up to 2 weeks!%0A%0A Salvia ‘Evolution’ offers a new color for a Salvia farinacea cultivar - lilac! Also known as mealy cup sage, ‘Evolution’ is not only well adapted to growing in flower beds and containers, but also in landscapes here in the desert Southwest. It’s native to Texas and Mexico, and can be grown as an annual or perennial. ‘Evolution’ is relatively small as sage go, growing to a height and spread of 18 inches. %0A%0A Nicotiana ‘Perfume Deep Purple’ offers something we have far too little of in gardens these days - fragrance! A perfect flower to be enjoyed in the evening garden; Perfume Deep Purple is unique among flowering tobaccos, with deep purple star-shaped flowers, and a fragrance that fills the night air! Plants stay a compact 20 inches and bloom continually without pinching or dead-heading. In the desert, afternoon shade should be provided during the summer.%0A%0A As you thumb through garden and seed catalogs, All American Award winners will be marked by a distinctive red, white and blue AAS Shield. %0A%0A Our weekly gardening demonstrations will resume this Wednesday with ‘Gardening Question and Answer Sessions’. They will be held on Wednesday at 9 a.m. at the Pima County Extension Center, 4210 N. Campbell Ave (central); at 1 p.m. at the Wilmot Library (east), and on Friday at 1 p.m. at the Oro Valley Public Library (northwest). %0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. |January 8, 2006| 27|29|Yes You Can Grow Rhubarb in Tucson|Rhubarb is an old garden favorite for many of us who grew up enjoying it’s unique tart flavor in pies, cobblers and sauces. But rhubarb is a northern grown perennial, not adapted to sub-tropical regions like we have in Tucson. At least that was the conclusion I drew. But I stumbled on an article about growing rhubarb as an annual; planting it in the fall, growing it in the cool winter months and harvesting it’s tasty leafstalks in the spring. So, I though we’d give it a try here at the UA Extension Gardens on Campbell Ave. To see what would happen.%0A%0A We chose the rhubarb variety ‘Victoria’, as the literature indicated it was the best Rhubarb for forcing (starting from seed) and growing to harvest in one season. Victoria produces a plant three feet wide and tall with large dark-green leaves. It’s tart green leafstalks are tinged in red, extending up from the base. As many as 30, eighteen-inch-long leafstalks can be harvested from just one plant. Easily enough to make 2 pies.%0A%0A Our Victoria rhubarb seeds were purchased form John Scheppers Kitchen Garden Seeds in Bantam Connecticut. It’s the only seed source I could find for this variety and they can be ordered at: www.kitchengardenseeds.com or by phoning 860-567-6086.%0A%0A Our seeds were planted in the second week of September in 4 inch pots in a mix of 2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts perlite and one part peat. Seeds germinated in 7 to 10 days with even moisture. When the first true leaves formed, our plants were feed weekly with a water soluble plant food. By mid-October, plants were large enough to plant out in the garden.%0A%0A Rhubarb requires a rich, organic soil. It can be planted in ground beds or raised beds. When preparing the area to plant, mix in lots of organic amendments, such as composted manure, topsoil rich in peat, or bagged plant compost. Prepare the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches. Remove all rocks, stones and caliche. Our rhubarb was grown in raised beds; one filled with compost, the other with a mixture of soil, peat and composted manure. Or raised bed with a mixture of garden soil and organic matter seemed to produce the best plants. At the time of soil preparation, also mix into the soil a fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium, such as 5-10-10 using about a quarter-cup per plant.%0A%0A Plants set out in October will grow and develop and extensive roots system, but only a limited amount of leafy growth. Through the fall and winter, rhubarb should be watered often enough to keep the soil evenly moist. Sometime in January or February plants will appear to die back, nearly to the ground. This is normal. Continue watering to keep the soil moist. As temperatures warm in early March, plants that appeared to be dead will come alive and begin growing. In 4 to 6 weeks, the rhubarb will be nearly full size and ready to harvest. %0A%0A With our experiment, we harvested all but one or two leafstalks to see if the plants would continue to grow. They did, and within a month of the first harvest we had a second crop of leafstalks nearly as large and numerous as the first. A work of caution, for those unfamiliar with rhubarb, only the stalks are edible. The leaves are in fact poisonous if ingested!%0A%0A The results certainly indicate that rhubarb can be grown successfully as an annual here in Tucson and other low and middle elevation locals in the Southwest. Not only that, but our rhubarb passed pie & cobbler taste tests with flying colors! %0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. %0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A |July 23, 2006| 28|30|Edible Ornamentals| Any plant that provides edible seeds, fruits, flowers, leaves or other plant parts would be considered an edible plant. As for it’s ornamental properties, all plants have an aesthetic appeal to one degree or another. But some plants are both highly ornamental and very good to eat! Some of these edible ornamentals great for Tucson gardens include:%0A%0A Globe Artichoke are grown for their delectable immature flower buds. Here in Tucson fall planting is a must so that flower buds can be harvested before hot spring temperatures turn the tender buds tough and inedible. Some of the buds should be left to come into their spectacular bloom of cushiony globed purplish-blue, nearly florescent flowers . %0A%0A Sunflower seeds are great for snacking, grow fast and come in every size and flower color imaginable. Not only do they grow fast, but their extremely easy to grow from seeds making them a kids gardening favorite. Some of the best full-sized Sunflower varieties are ‘Mammoth Russian’ ‘, ‘Cyclops’ ‘ and ‘Paul Bunyan’. All grow 10 to 12 feet tall. But there are also Sunflower varieties like ‘Sunflower Elf’ that grow less than 2 feet tall. Color selections include the traditional yellow ray brown disk flowers, red, crimson, bronze, orange and white.%0A%0A Great selections of Sunflower variety seeds are available from the Burpee Seed Company at www.burpee.com and Seedman at www.seedman.com %0A%0A Pomegranate is a beautiful large shrub to small tree that thrives in desert heat. The fruits are red to red-orange, large and highly decorative. Fruits ripen 6 to 7 months after flowering. Pomegranate Pomegranate fruit should be cut off using a sharp hand pruners at maturity. Fruit will not ripen off the tree. Under the hard outer shell is a seedy pulp that’s tart and sweet. The pulp can be eaten fresh or juiced. Flowers are also an orangy-red and showy. The cultivar ‘Wonderful’ produces the best quality fruits.%0A%0A Grapes are gaining increased popularity as the vine of choice for many home gardeners. Lush edible leaves and the fruit clusters are as beautiful as they are juicy sweet. Grape vines blend beautifully with Mediterranean-style gardens. The most vigorous grape variety for our desert environment is the Thompson’s Seedless table grape. But many wine grapes also preform well in the heat including; Syrah (a.k.a. Shiraz) Syrah (a.k.a. Shiraz), Tempranillo, Barbera and Petite Sirah. Grapes grow well on arbors and trellises or can be trained to grow free-standing much like a small tree.%0A%0A Peppers can be sweet, spicy or hot but all have attractive fruits in a range of colors including; near black, purple, red, orange, gold and green. New pepper varieties are always being introduced into the market. Some of the best are the All American Selections, like the 2006 award winner ‘Carmen’, an improved sweet pepper with an unusual shape. Rather than the typical bell, Carmen has an elongated chili pepper form. Fruits are quick to mature to a bright red, but are sweet and edible while still green. %0A%0A Edible Flower Petals are gaining popularity for using as garnishes, additions to salads and for flavorings in beverages, jams and jellies, cheese spreads, and herbal butters. Some like squash flowers and dandelion blooms can be fried in a light batter or cornmeal. Others can be stuffed or used in stir-fry dishes. Some popular flowers with desirable flavors include; Nasturtium (peppery flavor), Viola(sweet), Hibiscus (citrus to cranberry), Rose (perfumed, sweet to bitter), and Dianthus (spicy, clove). A word of caution. Even edible flowers may not agree with some people. Have a small taste just to see if you suffer any ill effects before consuming more.%0A%0A%0A Written by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. %0A%0A%0A%0A|July 2, 2006| 29|31|Tomatoes - Grow the Best from Seed|%0A It’s true that nothing tastes as good as a juicy red, vine-ripened tomato picked fresh from the garden. That’s why tomatoes are the most popular home garden vegetable, and well worth the effort involved in growing.%0A%0A Tomatoes aren’t difficult to grow. The key is getting them off to an early start before the heat sets in! To that end, order your tomato seed now and start them indoors so seedlings will be big enough to plant outdoors in March. %0A%0A Tomato seed packets are now available at the seed racks of area garden centers. If you don’t find the variety of tomato you want to grow, check in the vegetable seed catalogs. You can also web search for the variety you want. It’s easy to find a source and order the seed on-line.%0A%0A Tomato varieties best suited for southern Arizona include; Early Girl, Celebrity, Heatwave II, Sunmaster, Lemon Boy, Scarlett Express, Enchantment, Roma (paste type), and Gardener’s Delight (cherry type). A new cherry-type on the market and an excellent choice for Tucson is the All American Selections award winner: ‘Sugary’ tomato. It produces lots of tomatoes with a noticeable lack of cracked fruit.%0A%0A Read and follow all label directions on your tomato seed packet. You can plant seed in special pots and trays made for seed propagation, or use containers you have around the house. Egg cartons, the bottoms of milk cartons and plastic liter soda bottles, paper cups, and recycled flower pots are just a few of the items you can use. Be sure to put drainage holes in all container you intend to use.%0A%0A Fill your seed-starting containers with a prepared seed-starting mix, available at garden stores, or mix your own using equal parts of peat and vermiculite. In addition, vermiculite used alone makes a great medium for starting small seeds! Its available in small and large bag sizes at area garden centers. %0A%0A Plant tomato seeds just deep enough to cover them. You may want to plant more than one seed per container in case not all germinate. Seeds will germinate in 10 to 14 days. If more than one per container sprouts, then snip off the all but the strongest one.%0A%0A Water using a misting bottle to keep the soil moist after seeding. This prevents the seed mix and seeds from being disturbed. Never let the soil dry out! Seeds won’t germinate and seedlings will die if the soil isn’t kept evenly moist. Another way to water is from the bottom up. If you set your containers in a plastic tray and keep water in the bottom, the water will wick up into the seedling mix and vermiculite, keeping it evenly moist. %0A%0A To hold in moisture, cover the seed containers with tents made of clear plastic wrap or sealable plastic bags. After your tomato seedlings emerge, poke some holes in the plastic covers to prevent heat build-up and allow excess moisture to vent out. Gradually remove the covers to condition the seedlings to drier air. But, always keep the soil moist!%0A%0A Seedlings need bright light! If sunny window space is not available, grow seedlings under artificial gro-lights. If you notice your tomato seedlings becoming spindly, increase the amount of lighting. To keep the seedlings green and growing, make weekly applications of a water soluble plant food, at half-strength, until your ready to plant them outside in March.%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. |January 27, 2008| 30|32|Home Grown Tomatoes|Tomatoes can be successfully grown in home gardens throughout Southern Arizona in patio containers, raised planters or garden beds. The keys to success include; selecting heat-adapted varieties, having good soil and planting early to maximize tomato production.%0A%0A Some of the best tomato varieties for Southern Arizona include; Celebrity, Heat Wave, and Early Girl. One or all of these are usually available at area garden centers. Other proven local performers include; Sunmaster, Lemon Boy, Scarlett Express, Enchantment, Roma (paste type), and Gardener's Delight (cherry type). %0A%0A Use potting soil for containers and raised planters. To improve drainage and aeration of potting soil, mix 1 part perlite with 5 parts potting soil. Perlite can be purchased in bags at most garden centers and home supply stores. It takes time and effort to prepare a garden bed for planting tomatoes, but if your so inclined mix as much organic matter as you can (bagged compost, manure, peat) into the top 12 inches of desert soil. %0A%0A Purchase large tomato plants, even if they’re in small pots with cramped roots. Tomatoes are one of the few plants to produce additional roots from their stems. By purchasing larger plants, you can plant deep - burying the lower portion of the stem in the soil and additional roots will grow from the stem underground. Just be sure the top portion of the stem with some leaves remains above ground!%0A%0A For tomatoes grown in containers, the bigger the pot the better! For one tomato plant, select a container no smaller than 16 inches in diameter. Heavy clay pots work best to anchor large plants with lots of fruit, especially varieties producing large tomatoes. When planting in raised or garden beds, space tomatoes 3 to 4 feet apart. %0A%0A Tomatoes grown in the desert Southwest should be staked or caged to prevent sunburn of the fruit. Training plants to grow up allows the foliage to better shade the tomatoes. If you choose to stake your tomatoes, put the stakes in soon after planting. Use stakes large enough and tall enough to support a plant that may grow 4 feet tall and wide. %0A%0A Place the stake a few inches from the stem and push it down at least 18 inches into the ground or to the bottom of the pot. As the plant grows, keep the stem loosely tied to the stake with green garden tape, or velcro plant ties.%0A%0A Tomatoes can also be grown in cages to direct their growth up. I recommend the straight-sided types with wide openings for easy picking. Cone-shaped cages are good for holding up tomatoes in containers. You can make your own cage by forming a piece of concrete reinforcing wire or wide mesh fencing, into a 3 foot wide cylinder and staking it to a post for support.%0A%0A Make sure your tomatoes are well-watered. The soil should be kept evenly moist. This may require daily watering when the temperatures exceed 90 degrees later in the spring. In addition, fertilize your tomatoes with a timed-release vegetable fertilizer or a water soluble plant food high in phosphorous. But, avoid over-fertilizing! Too much nitrogen causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of tomato production.%0A%0A Finally, to extend the productive life of your tomato plants, shade them from afternoon sun beginning the middle of May. Shade cloth is available at most garden centers and home supply stores.%0A%0AWritten by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,%0A520-626-5161. %0A|March 30, 2008|