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Index : Miscellaneous Gardening Topics
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- 25. New Plants from Layering - Top
Layering is a process of forming roots on a portion of a plant to create a new plant. It is similar to rooting cuttings. The main difference is that with a cutting the entire shoot tip is removed from the Mother plant. Roots form from the severed tissue. With layering, the shoot tip is partially cut, but not completely removed from the Mother plant. Roots then form from the partially severed tissue. The advantage to layering is that water and nutrients are still supplied to the portion of the plant to be rooted, making rooting much easier.
There are two categories of layering, those where layering (rooting) occurs in the ground, and those where layering (rooting) occurs above the ground.
The simplest form of ground layering is called "tip" layering. It's easy to preform on low growing plants and shrubs with pliable branches that can be bent to the ground. An upward slanting cut is made about half-way through the stem, about 4 to 5 inches from the branch tip. To stimulate rooting, brush the open cut with a powdered rooting hormone. Rooting hormone can be purchased at most area garden centers.
When applying the hormone, place a small amount of powder in a paper cup. Use a small artist paintbrush to transfer the hormone powder to the cut portion of the stem. Do not dip the paint brush in the hormone bottle itself. This can contaminate the hormone, degrading it's effectiveness.
The cut portion of the stem should be buried several inches below ground. Mound some soil or place a rock over the buried stem to hold it in the ground. The tip of the stem should be kept above ground. Leaves on the end of the stem will keep drawing water and nutrients up and transporting carbohydrates down while the cut is developing roots.
Tip layering works well on Climbing Roses, Jasmine, Oleander, Lantana, and Pyracantha. It may also work on many desert plants like Dalea, Texas Sage, Texas Ranger, Butterflybush, and Senna. The best time for layering desert plants would probably be at the beginning of the Summer Monsoon Season. The higher humidity and hot temperatures are more conducive for growth of these types of plants. Soil around the cut stem of desert plants should be watered only once, immediately after being buried in the ground. For other non-desert plants like roses and oleander, the soil should be keep evenly moist with frequent watering.
Although tip layering is the easiest layering method, it only produces one new plant. If you wish to produce multiple plants from a single branch, then "serpentine" layering is the most effective. As the name implies, the stem is run in and out of the soil, in a serpentine fashion. Every other bud (leaf attachment) is buried, leaving the alternate bud (and leaf) above ground. The stems are wounded in the same manner as with tip layering, just below each bud being buried in the ground. This method requires plants with pliable or vining stems such as Grapes, Trumpet Creeper, and Star Jasmine.
Trees and many other plants do not have pliable branches that can be bent to the ground. For these plants, layering must be done above ground, using a process called "air" layering. Roots are formed on stems and small branches above ground. A location should be selected on the north or east side of the plants, one that is protected from direct sunlight.
Select a stem or branch with a thickness between little finger and thumb size. The cut should be made a foot or so back from the end of the branch. Make a slanting cut, and inch long, about half-way through the stem. Next, wedge a toothpick between the cut to keep it open. Dust the open wound with rooting hormone powder. Finally, wrap the cut and an area several inches to either side with moist green moss. Packages of green moss can be purchased at most garden supply stores.
To hold the packed green moss in place around the wound, wrap it tightly with clear plastic wrap, such as saran wrap. Tape the ends to keep moisture from escaping the moss. Moisture should bead up on the inside of the plastic wrap. If, in time moisture fails to bead on the plastic, remove the plastic, moisten the moss, and re-wrap.
In a few weeks to several months, depending on the variety of plant, roots will grow out into the moss. They will be easily seen through the plastic wrapping. The rooted stem may then be cut off and planted in the ground or in a container. This resulting new plant will be genetically identical to it's parent.
"Making Trimmed Evergreen Topiary" is the topic for this week's garden demonstrations. They will be presented on Wednesday at 9 a.m. at the Pima county Extension Center, 4210 N. Campbell Ave; and at 1 p.m. at the Wilmot Library, 530 N. Wilmot Road; and again on Thursday at 2 p.m. at the Marana Planning Services on the Northeast corner of Orange Grove and Thornydale.
Written by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. - Updated: April 13, 2003
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