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Index : Citrus and Other Fruits
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- 25. Grow Different Types of Citrus Fruits On The Same Tree - Top
- If you grow citrus you might be interested to know that you can grow several types of citrus fruit on the same tree! You can have the fruit of valencia oranges on your navel orange tree. You can have the fruit of mineolla tangelos on your marsh grapefruit tree. You can even grow the fruit of limes on your kumquat tree. In fact, you can grow any type of citrus fruit on any other type of citrus tree. This fruit cocktail creation is called, logically enough, a "cocktail tree".
Cocktail trees are formed by removing the buds from one type of citrus tree and attaching them to another type. The resulting branches that develop will bear the type of fruit where the bud was taken from.
The time to "bud" citrus trees is in the spring, when the bark is "slipping". Prior to active growth, the sap will be rising in the tree and the bark will be loose. Buds can be removed at this time to graft onto another tree. To determine weather the bark is "slipping" simply score the bark with a sharp knife, and see if it peels back easily.
Remove some one year old stems from the tree you wish to take buds from. This might be from a friend or neighbors tree which has exceptional fruit. Select stems that are one-quarter inch in diameter or smaller. Cut several short pieces of stems, a foot or so in length. These stems are referred to as budsticks. The buds you will be removing are located at the base of each leaf, where they attach onto the budstick.
If you cannot preform the budding immediately, you can store the budsticks up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator. Wrap the sticks in wet paper towels and insert the bundle in a plastic bag before placing in the refrigerator. This will prevent them from dehydrating.
When your ready to bud, select a location on your tree that has branches between one-half to three-quarters inche in diameter. This is where you will be grafting on your new buds. It is best to choose a location that is not directly exposed to sunlight from the south or west.
With a sharp knife, make a vertical cut in a smooth area on the stem. Make the cut one and one-half inches in length and deep enough to cut through to the wood beneath the bark. Next, make a horizontal cut one- half inch long through the bark at the bottom of your vertical cut. When your finished you will have an inverted "T" cut.
Now it's time to remove the bud for insertion into the "T" cut. To do this select a plump dormant bud, located at the point directly above where a leaf petiole attaches on the stem. Make a horizontal cut across the budstick about one-half to three-quarters inch above the bud. Cut the bud and a small piece of wood underneath it using a continuous motion. The cut should begin about one-half to three-quarters inch below the bud, and should end at the horizontal cut made above the bud.
Lift the chip of wood containing the bud, using the leaf petiole (leaf removed) as a handle. This will avoid contaminating the cut side of the bud chip with soaps or oils from your fingers.
Next, carefully peal back the bark of the "T" cut just enough to slide in bud chip in. Push the bud chip down carefully from the top of the "T' , towards the bottom. Slide it far enough down so that the bark flaps hold the bud tightly in the pocket. Be careful not to locate the bud upside-down. Orient the bud the same direction on it's new stem as it was on the stem or it was taken from.
Finally, wrap the entire cut, above and below the bud with teflon tape. Wrap so that only the bud and leaf petiole are peeking out. This will keep the cut , the bud, and surrounding sapwood from drying out while it heals.
In a few weeks, remove the tape. If the budding was successful, the bud will form into a new shoot. If the bud remains alive but does not grow, try bending the stem over just above the inserted bud and tieing it over.
Budding is both an art and a science. You may want to try grafting several buds, hoping that one will take and grow. Don't be discouraged by early failures. As you practice, your success rate will increase.
Written by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161.
Material originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on March 11, 2001 - Updated: August 30, 2001
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