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Index : Plant Care
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- 5. Winter Pruning of Roses - Top
- Don’t mistake winter pruning of roses in Arizona with what you may have been familiar with in colder climates farther north. Winter pruning here doesn’t involve severe pruning to removal heavily frozen canes. Our canes don’t freeze, so our pruning is more a fine-tuning of the bushes to maximize new spring growth and bloom.
The first step in the pruning process is to eliminate crowding of the interior of the rose bush. Growth of new canes can be so vigorous, that over time the crown of the plant becomes choked and in need of thinning. Using a long-handled pruning loppers, to reach into the center of the plant and begin pruning out the smallest canes. Prune them off as close as possible to the plant base. Old, non-productive canes should also be removed. After thinning, you should be left with 4 to 8 vigorous canes that are thumb-sized or larger in diameter. If your bushes are young, the canes may not be quite as thick or numerous.
On mature rose bushes, the oldest canes will be a gray color and several inches across. The most vigorous canes will be somewhat younger, not quite as thick and have a reddish green stem color. These vigorous canes will over-time be allowed to replace the older, less vigorous ones. Try to keep a balance of old, vigorous and young (green) canes.
The next step in the pruning process is to prune all canes back to a height of 18 to 24 inches above the base of the bush. Each cane should be pruned back to an outward facing shoot or dormant bud. Shoots will be obvious, but dormant buds are harder to see. They’re located at the base of leaf petiole. So cutting just above an outward-facing leaf will insure that when the bud breaks dormancy, the new shoot will grow out and away from the center of the bush.
Directing growth outward is very important. The more light which penetrates into the center of the rose bush, the more flowers the plant will produce. So, try to eliminate any inward growing shoots, stems, or canes. Over time, with proper pruning a standard rose can become very large and wide. Keep this in mind when planting new rose bushes. Allow for a minimum 3 foot spread per bush.
Unlike all other plants I know of, pruned roses do require that the cuts be sealed. This is done to prevent cane borers (various beetle larvae) from penetrating into and down the cut stem. The best and easiest way to seal the cut ends is to dab on some Elmer’s glue. It’s not toxic to the rose, is environmentally safe and does a great job of sealing the cut and keeping bugs out. Apply the glue to all cuts one-half inch or greater in diameter.
In addition to pruning, this is also the time of year to plant new bare-root rose bushes.
Right now, bare root rose bushes are available at local garden stores in an array of colors. They should be planted in the garden as soon after purchasing as possible to prevent the roots from drying out. Roses grow very well in containers and raised beds. If you preparing a bed for planting in the ground, mix in lots of organic matter prior to planting. After planting, keep the soil moist to encourage new root growth.
Written by John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161. - Updated: January 15, 2006
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