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- 10. Protecting Plants from Summer's Heat - Top
- We've Only Just Begun - to Sizzle may not be the title of an old Carpenter's song, but it's likely the tune we'll be singing here in the desert as temperatures begin climbing above the century mark. Fortunately for us, we can escape into our air conditioned homes and offices. But our plants are firmly rooted in the parching desert sun and heat. To help them through the rough times ahead, here are some pointers for Summer plant survival!
First, always make sure plants have an adequate supply of water. Garden vegetables and flowers need to be watered daily, sometimes twice daily during our driest month - June. So do patio plants in containers. Newly planted trees and shrubs also need daily watering for the first few weeks, or until the monsoon rains arrive in July. Only then should watering of newly planted trees and shrubs, even the likes of mesquite and jojoba, be spaced farther apart.
For trees and shrubs that have been growing for a time, a year or more, watering depends on their type. Non-desert varieties like citrus, oak, and privet will need a deep watering once each week. Native and desert-adapted varieties such as palo verde, desert willow, and acacia can survive on their own in years of normal rain occurance. But normal years are few and far between so it's best to provide them a good soaking once or twice a month during hot, dry weather. With substantial monsoon rains, watering on all types of established trees and shrubs can be reduced or curtailed.
Wilt is the most common symptom of moisture stress on plants. Small garden plants and new plantings of all types are most inclined to wilt. If you notice plants drooping in the heat of mid-day, cool them down. This can be accomplished by hosing them off with cool water. The water drastically reduces moisture loss from leaves and cools the plants. As a result, the plants are once again able to draw more moisture from the soil than they loose through their leaves. Water pressure within the plant returns causing them to perk up. Remember, let the garden hose run on bare ground until cool water comes out. Never hose down plants with hot water!
Shading plants will also help cut their moisture loss. Shade cloth and row cover fabric can be purchased in garden centers and home supply stores. Plants can be covered directly, or you can construct a simple wood frame to hold the shade cloth. The frame should be positioned overhead or on the west side of plants to be protected. Patio plants can be repositioned where they receive afternoon shade. Moving them to a temporary location under a tree will also help. Avoid pruning plants during the summer. Removing too much leafy growth will expose the stems and branches to strong sunlight that can cause the wood to sun-scald.
Mulch is a must for summer gardens. All plants benefit by having a layer of organic matter such as straw, compost, or cedar mulch. A two to three inch layer will insulate the soil, keeping it from getting too hot and drying out. After applying you mulch covering, pull it back slightly away from the base of the plants.
Just as pets should never be closed up in a car during hot weather, neither should plants. Never allow them to sit in the car, even with the windows down, for more than ten minutes. When planning a trip to your local garden center, make it early in the day, before temperatures get too hot. If you must purchase plants from mid-day to late afternoon, make it your last stop before heading home. Once there, immediately set the plants in the shade and give them a drink.
Finally, never apply sprays of garden chemicals when temperatures are above 90 degrees! Heat and sunlight combined with chemical sprays can be toxic to plants. If you must spray, do it early in the morning, when temperatures are cooler. Better yet, try spraying with a strong jet of water. This will control many common garden pests such as aphids and mites.
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Written by John Begeman, College of Agriculture, the University of Arizona, 520-626-5161.
Material originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on June 4, 2000.
- Updated: April 19, 2001
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