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Index : Container Plants & Patio Gardening
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- 16. Hibiscus Make Great Patio Plants - Top
- No doubt, hibiscus are among the most popular of all flowering plants. In warm-winter regions of Florida, Southern California, and Mexico, hibiscus are planted out in the landscape. Here in Tucson they can be grown quiet successfully in pots on porches, patios and other protected locations.
Most hibiscus varieties have one-day flowers; the blossoms open early in the morning and wilt late that afternoon. Although individual flowers do not last long, it seems that each plant will have at least one flower opening daily. Blooming is more or less continuous during the warm season.
Hibiscus flowers are great for displaying indoors. Since they do not have to be place in water, you can set them out almost any place where it is reasonably cool. Special glass hibiscus holders are a popular way to display individual flowers. Hibiscus flowers may be saved for evening display if they are picked just after they open in the morning and refrigerated until needed.
Because the showy hibiscus sold in local garden centers are tropical Chinese hibiscus, they do need winter protection. Typically, plants will not withstand temperatures below 30 degrees. Locating them under the cover of a south facing porch or patio is ideal. Potted hibiscus can also be moved into a garage or inside the house on cold nights.
Most hibiscus can be grown in relatively small containers. I would recommend planting them in a container that is five to ten gallons in size. And since you may need to move them from time to time, it's a good idea to invest in one of the new Afeather-lite planters. They look great, are 90% lighter than similar-sized clay pots, and are sold at most garden centers and home supply stores.
Hibiscus grow best in an acidic soil. Better grades of potting soil are acidic because they contain quality sphagnum peat moss. You can make your own quality potting soil by purchasing sphagnum peat moss and combining it with equal parts of vermiculite and perlite. All three ingredients can now be purchased in small bag sizes, rather than the conventional large bales and bag sizes.
Eventually, even acidic potting soils will loose their acidity. That's because our tap water tends to be alkaline and with repeated watering the pH of the potting soil will gradually increase. Fertilizing with Miracid or other fertilizers for acid-loving plants will help. The addition of chelated micro-nutrients, especially iron, one or two each growing season will also help keep hibiscus blooming and looking their best.
Hibiscus purchased at the garden centers are very full compact plants. They have thick, broad, dark-green leaves. Much of this is due to the fact that they are treated with a growth retardants at the greenhouse, which keeps them small and full. As the growth retardant wares off (usually in six months) plants will begin to stretch and grow taller. Leaves will also become smaller.
It is not practical to continue to treat the plant with growth retardants. Plants can be kept fuller with regular light pruning. Since hibiscus blooms are produced on new growth, do not cut back on all the branches at one time. This will delay flowering. Rather, maintain a desired size and shape by cutting only the longest one-third of the branches at one time. The next longest third of the branches may be cut 30 days later. The remaining third are cut 30 days after that. Light, periodic pruning avoids the need for heavy pruning.
Regular feeding and watering are important in keeping hibiscus blooming. Besides the regular use of an acid loving fertilizer, slow-release or timed fertilizers may also be applied. Apply the amount recommended on the label for your pot size.
Some of the leaves of hibiscus will occasionally turn yellow and drop off. This is usually caused by changes in temperature or moisture. The ideal location for hibiscus is where it will receive at least 6 hours of morning sun. Plants should be shaded form direct afternoon sunlight during the summer months.
Finally, bud drop may occur from time to time. This is usually due to nutritional deficiencies, over fertilization, and environmental factors such as too much or too little water, or a build-up of salts in the container. Adjusting these factors will help prevent further bud drop.
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Written by John Begeman, College of Agriculture, the University of Arizona.
Material originally appeared in Arizona Daily Star gardening column, on August 27, 2000
- Updated: August 27, 2000
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