[Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Dick Gross
rkgross3 at cox.net
Fri Nov 10 23:05:57 MST 2006
Jenny, assuming that is your name, there care several factors that need
clarifying. The condition you describe is commonly called channeling--a
phenomena where the water finds the route of least resistance between the
root meria and the pot wall. The water goes straight through eroding the
channel larger and larger while the nterior remains bone dry and the plant
dies a slow agonizing death from critical thirst. It is very easy to
correct. Get a blunt stick, a 1x1 inch stake or a hoe handle and, when the
soil is just damp--not wet, pack the soil tightly all the way around the
interior pot wall. Force the stake down as far as it will go. Now, fill-in
and pack lightly the space you have created along the pot wall with a
potting medium similar to the existing soil and tamp it down firmly until
the voids are full to the average pot level. You may destroy a few root tips
but this "false pruning" may give the plant new life. Then, irrigate as
follows.
Put a hose end in the pot, adjust the flow to maintain a shallow level of
water and leave it until you are assured the entire interior is soaked and
well flushed. Your pot should have adequate drainage holes. If possible, set
the pot to irrigate and drain efficiently while nestled in soil to provide a
wicking effect percolating the water by gravity all the way through to flush
accummulated salts. Don't irrigate again until the soil is quite dry an inch
or two deep. Repeat the watering procedure. Your plant should explode before
your very eyes if it hasn't gone too far. Fertilize as directed before the
plant drys and water it in well. My most effective method to feed potted
plants is to dilute a soluble all-purpose fertilizer at the rate of 1/4th
teaspoon per gallon and apply every time I water.
Most plants prefer full sun but there are a couple things you can do if not.
Black plastic in full sun is deadly--even in San Diego or Montana fully
exposed in July. Set the pot so that the foliage gets full morning sun and
afternoon shade with the most light it can tolerate. You can slap a quick
coat of white latex on black plastic pots to reflect most of the heat.
Burlap or a strip of white paper frostcover draped around the pots and held
in place with clothes pins is effective and not too unattractive.
Many plants will tolerate full sun if foliage is fully inbibed with water
where the constant transpiration acts as its cooling system. But you have to
study your plants like a doctor views his patient to look for signs of
trauma. As soon as the leaf begins to wilt or loose luster, it is in
decline, a weakening during which it is more vulnerable to attack be insects
and pathogens.
If this creates any more questions that I've not addressed, do not hesitate
to respond. Any other gardener who can clarify these issues or add
intelligent substance to this discussion should feel an obligation to
respond as well.
Dick Gross, Master Gardener Volunteer
University of Arizona Maricopa County
Cooperative Extension
jenniyo at gmail.com
My potted patio plants are suffering!!!
They can't seem to soak up the water they need. when i water them they
drain water as fast as I pour it---it seems to be running out between the
dirt and the pot. I've heard of this condidtion being called "hydrophobic"
but can't find any info to treat the problem and get my plants the h20 they
need in this arid climate! I know it has something to do with too much peat
moss in my potting soil. some of the soil was from a mix i bought and some
of the plants i've bought directly from a nursery. HELP me---it's a matter
of life a death for my plants!!!
By the way--- my patio sees 5 hours of afternoon sun a day and my all my
pots are plastic. Some have a compost mulch-which seems to help a little
and others have bark which i notice doesn't do any good. Tanks for your
help --i'm new to AZ
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