[Arid_gardener] Re: Seed Germinatiing Problems

[dergartenarzt]

----- Original Message ----- From: <shari at sharilyon.com>

> I have problems getting my seeds started when I plant them, I am wondering
> if I am overwatering. How often and how long should I have be watering
> newly planted seeds? I am using the soaker tubing type of watering system.

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I prefer to sow seeds directly in the soil but there are also good reasons
to grow seeds in flats or containers, then transplanting.  I have had many
successes and some not so successful which I like to think of as learning
experiences.  Some considerations:

1.  The seeds must be viable.  Most mail order suppliers (Seed Savers
Exchange, Johnny's, Park seeds, etc.) maintain their seeds at optimum
temperature and humidity and germination .  Local garden centers may keep
their seeds under a roof in an area building with no air conditioning in the
summer months when the temps are in the 100s and the humidity less than 10%.
This can have a detrimental effect on viability.

2.  Plant at the right time.  Soil temperature must be low enough for good
germination.  Web site (may wrap)

http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1061/ANR-1061.pdf#search=%22Vegetable%20seed%20germinating%20temperature%22

gives optimum and maximum soil temperatures for good germination for various
vegetable varieties.

Soil temperatures in the west valley are now in the
low 80s at 4 inches per
http://ag.arizona.edu/azmet/data/10em.txt
and 5-10 degrees higher in the east valley per
http://ag.arizona.edu/azmet/data/10em.txt
and will be a few degrees higher nearer the soil surface.

Planting early enough is important for good germination before the cool
weather but is also important for good growth during the growing season
before the growth slows down in the cooler weather. Most cool climate plants
can be direct seeded now through mid November. The pubs at

http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100.pdf and
http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf

take these factors into account and provide optimum average dates for
planting flowers and vegetables, respectively.  I used to plant on the first
day of fall in September but a few years ago we had a lot of problems with
whiteflies and waiting until October would avoid the whitefly problem.  But
the whitefly controls in the cotton fields are much better no and the
whitefly problem with early planting is not so serious.

3.  Plant at the correct depth, usually 3-4 times the diameter of the seed
but can bee a bit deeper in warm weather or a bit deeper in cool weather.
Our desert soil tends to crust over and keep the plants from coming through
so the soil must be damp.  I usual cover the seeds light with a good potting
soil (Super Soil) then firm it up with the back of a hoe because the seeds
should have good contact wit the soil on all sides.  I water a few times
each day with a "red head" sprinkler that has a gazillion holes in it to
give a fine, light spray to keep the seeds from floating away.

4.  Start seeds in flats or containers to bet an eerier start.  I prefer
direct seeding because the plants will seek and grow at the correct depth.
But ants may carry off small seeds which can make it look like poor
germination.  This also helps to jump start the plants.

Good luck,

Olin