[Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

[Dick]

If the soil drains well, it is impossible to overwater as long as the water 
table can pass through and out of the root zone carrying the salt load with 
the water table following.  Evaporation will, however, pull salt back to the 
surface where distilled water evaporates leaving the salt and other minerals 
behind. If the basin has several inches of mulch, it will effectively 
prevent evaporation from reconcentrating salt near the surface again. But, 
if foliage extends all the way to the ground as it should in an established 
tree as it should, mulching is probably not necessary.  If feeder roots are 
absent air for a short time, depending on soil density and structure, fine 
feeder roots rot, reducing the plant's ability to hydrate and feed itself.

Prior to planting, until I learned the drainage capacity, I would dig a hole 
about 15 inches deep with a post hole digger, fill the hole to the top and 
roughly observe the time it takes for the hole to empty. Fill it again and 
again. When you have water left in the bottom of the hole an hour later and 
some the next morning, you have well exceded drainage capacity and you are 
at the point at which plant roots absent oxygen will die. That is the rough 
and dirty method I have used for years but, fortunately, at my address there 
is no limit unless I apply it faster than it can drain away. In my home in 
the San Diego foot hills, water would be standing a week later. I had to dig 
vents through the 8 inch clay strata and fill them with crushed rock to 
affect drainage. Rounded rock I learned would clog again faster than I could 
fill the hole.

The changes are subtle, but when you can detect a loss of foliage luster, 
the plant is probably thirsty. A slight permanent limpness of the foliage is 
a critical sign but if turgidity and luster has returned the next morning, 
it may simply mean transpiration is too great for the root systen to keep 
up. A much greater threat here, I believe, is salt build-up in the root 
zone. With experience, you can learn how to irrigate in your own yard. A lot 
of it is trial and error maybe killing a few plants in the process.

In poorly drained soil, 2 or 3 day frequency could well be too much on an 
established tree with marginal drainage.  A newly planted tree may need 
irrigation that often but I make sure the deep watering extends well outside 
the dripline. New roots will not penetrate dry soil. When the foliage is 
limited in its ability to manufacture carbohydrates, growth approaches zero.

Young trees are much more critical. On established fruit trees, I deep water 
only after I scratch about three inches in the drip line area and find dry 
soil.  That can be 30 or more than 45 days. I irrigate only in a shallow two 
foot wide trench splitting the drip line until I can sink a 30 inch soil 
probe to the hilt several places around the drip line. On established trees, 
I never add water inside the dripline basin. Never! Mother nature may do it 
for me a couple of times a year.

If some of my rough and dirty "science" raises the hair on the back of your 
neck, by all means bring it to my attention. I am neither too old to learn 
nor too proud to stand corrected but, if not challenged, James, I don't 
learn anything and I assume I have stated only truth.

Dick Gross, Master Gardener Volunteer
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James McCay" <jmccay at hotmail.com>
To: <rkgross3 at cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> Hi Dick,
>
> I had no idea you are 82!  I am impressed ;-)
>
> Isn't watering each 2-3 days excessive?  I am wondering about the salt 
> build up and maybe even drowing the trees also.
>
> Thanks & very interesting.  I have killed most of my plants off as never 
> have time to read these let alone implement much good advice!
>
> Cheers,
> James
>
> From: "Dick" <rkgross3 at cox.net>
> To: <Kay at thepetcounselor.com>
> CC: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:00:46 -0700
>
> Be sure you follow directions on the bag but try Amonium Sulfate, 21-0-0 
> in a shallow trench around the drip line. That is the only fertilizer I 
> have ever used under the impression that other nutrients are already 
> abundant in our soils. New growth should be a rich green but I don't 
> believe you will get any or not much improvement in existing foliage. We 
> are approaching fall. Keep in mind that your peach is a deciduous species. 
> Most trees planted in the hot months, I've noticed, suffer from climate 
> shock but usually survive quite well. The normal feeding is in March, June 
> and September but the first feeding should, I believe, be conservative but 
> some gardeners will not fertilize a tree the first year. Dormant trees 
> don't feed. I would transplant any tree no later than March/April and no 
> later than September for best results.
>
> But, at 82, I am still learning. Contrary opinions, civily presented, are 
> welcome, of course. Planting procedures and first year care are critical 
> factors in the Salt River Basin.  50 experiernced Master Gardeners should 
> weigh in on this.
>
> Dick Gross, Master Gardener Volunteer
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kay at thepetcounselor.com>
> To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
> Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 11:54 AM
> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
> > Kay Cox
> > 85249
> > Kay at thepetcounselor.com
> >
> > Hi - We have a new orchard, put in May 10th, 2007.  I have noticed our
> Desert Gold Peach tree has several yellow leaves with brown edges.  We 
> have watered the orchard every 2 to 3 days since it was put in.  Moon 
> Valley gave us "Moon Juice" to feed the trees after 3 weeks which we did. 
> We haven't given them anything else and most of the trees look good.  The 
> Peach tree has the yellow brown problem and some of the Apple tree leaves 
> look like they are washed out.
> >
> > Can you advise me what to do.
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Kay
> >
> >
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> >
>
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