[Arid_gardener] RE: Using Alka Liche

Mon Apr 14 07:18:23 MST 2008

I used Alka Liche monthly last June, July, and August on several citrus and
an apple tree.  All had been planted about 14 months earlier.  They are all
thriving.  Be careful to dilute it according to the label, and pour the acid
into water rather than adding water to acid.

Bill Woody 

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To: arid_gardener at CALS.arizona.edu
Subject: Arid_gardener Digest, Vol 51, Issue 11

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Today's Topics:

   1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ekimecap at cox.net)
   2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (snowberries at earthlink.net)
   3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (alsher75 at cox.net)
   4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (pse at qwest.net)
   5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (gitzcpa at hotmail.com)
   6. Re: Arid_gardener Digest, Vol 51, Issue 9 (VYNNIE MCDANIELS)
   7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (uneven_press at msn.com)
   8. green cloud sage (Dot)
   9. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (CHEROKEE991 at COX.NET)
  10. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (mcheyl at cox.net)
  11. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Dick)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 14:33:50 -0700 (MST)
From: ekimecap at cox.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804122133.m3CLXorq021740 at Ag.arizona.edu>

Michael
85042
ekimecap at cox.net

I planted 2 15 gal flowering plum trees 3 years ago.  They are on the south
side of my home.  They get sun all day.  They have had little growth during
the 3 years. What are the water requirements?  Fertlizer? Frequency?

Thanks.

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 15:35:48 -0700 (MST)
From: snowberries at earthlink.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804122235.m3CMZmrq029965 at Ag.arizona.edu>

Ruth Zemek
85018
snowberries at earthlink.net

Our two large old juniper trees are suddenly dying.  The "leaves" or green
parts are covered with a film which is killing the trees from the bottom up.
is there anything we can do to save the one that still seems alive?

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:32:53 -0700 (MST)
From: alsher75 at cox.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804130232.m3D2Wrrq028758 at Ag.arizona.edu>

Sherry
85028
alsher75 at cox.net

I have older rose bushes and citrus trees growing in extremely clay soil.
I've added gypsum through the years without noticeable improvement. I bought
a jug of Alka Liche, which was recommended to me. My question:  Is Alka
Liche safe for existing plants, or is it meant for preconditioning the soil
before planting?

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:37:46 -0700 (MST)
From: pse at qwest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804130237.m3D2bkrq029323 at Ag.arizona.edu>

85086
pse at qwest.net

Is this a good time to prune hibiscus?  If so, how much should you prune?
Also, can they be grown in full sun in the Phoenix area?

Thank you.

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 21:31:26 -0700 (MST)
From: gitzcpa at hotmail.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804130431.m3D4VQrq015706 at Ag.arizona.edu>

85737
gitzcpa at hotmail.com

I have a boganvillea in my back yard.  It is just beginning to flower after
being cut back because of frost damage.

I am wondering how often and how much watter it needs in the warm - hot
season.

thanks,  Ruth Gitzendanner

------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 23:31:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: VYNNIE MCDANIELS <terrafirmaaz at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener Digest, Vol 51, Issue 9
To: loafer at cox.net, arid_gardener at CALS.arizona.edu
Message-ID: <669957.50549.qm at web53612.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

HI Suze - 

I would recommend, patience.  

If they've only been in the ground a few years, they are likely still
adjusting.  
Here are a few qualifying questions with recommendation:
 Were they 1gal or 5gal when planted? 
 Are there other plantings near by that receive drip as well? 
How are they mulched and how thick of a layer?
 What is the exposure?
(afternoon shade - by 3pm - preferred)
How was the original planting hole prepared? 
(3x hole, mostly amended soil, pumice)
What is the drip watering cycle?
1-2 days/wk, 1-3gallon/1hr)

For fertilizing, I like to use an organic (mild) fertilizer, and apply
regularly (monthly or quarterly).  I use a foul manure blend monthly (about
a cup per plant), pull back mulch and rough it into the soil.  I then add
composted mulch monthly to encourage soil habitat.  

This may sound excessive, but is fairly effortless if you're a casual
weekend gardener.  It's just having the materials on site ready to use.
After about year, the hibiscus I've planted have become pretty self
sustaining.  I still get the occasional yellowing, veining, and leaf drop,
which all pass with the season.  (I don't expect them to look perfect all
year round.)

Since hibiscus is a tropical, they do require some care and attention (or
trusty neglect) in our arid environment.  A good resource for hibiscus Q&A
is Master Gardener Wayne Hall:
AZWHALL at ATT.NET

Best of gardening to you!

- VYNNIE

arid_gardener-request at CALS.arizona.edu wrote: Send Arid_gardener mailing
list submissions to  arid_gardener at CALS.arizona.edu

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://CALS.arizona.edu/mailman2/listinfo/arid_gardener
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
arid_gardener-request at CALS.arizona.edu

You can reach the person managing the list at
arid_gardener-owner at CALS.arizona.edu

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..."

Today's Topics:

   1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (loafer at cox.net)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 16:23:34 -0700 (MST)
From: loafer at cox.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: 
Message-ID: <200804102323.m3ANNYrq017463 at Ag.arizona.edu>

suze
85050
loafer at cox.net

We have 2 red hibiscus plants. One is not blooming, has had buds for over a
month, leaves dark green healthy looking. Other plant is larger, blooming.
However, leaves are sparce and lighter green, blooms are not as red or as
large as last year. I've fertilized with manganese, Feb and this week,
4/9/2008. What do you recommend?

------------------------------

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All contents copyright 2007. Arizona Board of Regents/University of Arizona

End of Arid_gardener Digest, Vol 51, Issue 9
********************************************

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Garden consultation and design
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 08:58:18 -0700 (MST)
From: uneven_press at msn.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804131558.m3DFwIrq027059 at Ag.arizona.edu>

Barbara
85201
uneven_press at msn.com

I bought a golden eye wedelia about a month ago at Boyce Thompson Arb.  For
various reasons, I delayed getting it in the ground.  I know I picked it out
for a reason, but now I can't remember.  I'm not sure what it looks like,
whether it takes full sun, color of flowers.  So, I tried looking it up on
the internet and went through dozens of sites that list it but have no
pictures or information I can use.  I also got a little scared reading some
comments on sites about how invasive wedelia can be.  There seem to be a
large variety of wedelia and, while I didn't find anything specific about
golden eye, I did see a lot of warnings about planting some other kinds.
They seem to take over gardens and are hard to control.  
Do you have information specific to golden eye wedelia?  Where to grow it,
size, hardiness.  And, is this species really invasive?  And, anything else
you may wish to comment on it.  Thanks!

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 10:14:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dot <dotcartman at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] green cloud sage
To: Arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu
Message-ID: <780337.22990.qm at web38013.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello, when I bought my house 5 years ago, it had 7 green cloud sage with
the pinkish flowers. I'm having trouble with them and I found your May 2000
article and now I feel even more confused about care. They've been on a
watering system that waters for 30 minutes three times a week in summer then
down to one in winter. Thats the schedule that was set up for us by the
landscape company and unless I hand water or we get a new scheduling box, I
don't know how to fix that.

I try to prune all of them into a nice round shape to about 4-5ft high but
Im never sure what time of year I should, or how often, to get them to fill
in. Three of them on the west side of the house just look sad. They get the
most sun and never quite fill in in the middle. I thought about putting moon
dust on them in November and March but wasn't sure if that was best.

Can you give me a good care regimen for them? Is it too late to make them
into nice full cupcakes? 
Thanks
Diane Serpa

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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 15:39:59 -0700 (MST)
From: CHEROKEE991 at COX.NET
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804132240.m3DMdxrq016039 at Ag.arizona.edu>

JIM CAVINESS
85022
CHEROKEE991 at COX.NET

WILL AVACADO TREES TAKE FULL AZ SUN

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 17:39:03 -0700 (MST)
From: mcheyl at cox.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <200804140039.m3E0d3rq000835 at Ag.arizona.edu>

Mike Heyl
85012
mcheyl at cox.net

I have 5 trees in a yard with desert landscape ground cover.  They are all
watered by drip irrigation.  How do I feed/fertilize them with the gravel
covering?  I've tried an "in-line" system but that was an expensive mistake.
I've tried granules but I don't believe heavy watering gets much of the feed
to the roots.  Any suggestions??

I'd appreciate any help you may offer.  Thanks

Mike

------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 22:49:13 -0700
From: "Dick" <rkgross3 at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
To: <CHEROKEE991 at cox.net>, <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Cc: "Jacqueline M. Janes" <eggplantjewelry at yahoo.com>,	Dorena Mello
	<dorena.fastsigns at fastq.com>,	Judy Hall <plantdrlady at yahoo.com>,
Inese
	Santaromita <inese at slhi.org>, Doug May <d_may at cox.net>,	Bart
Millikan
	<abmillikan at msn.com>, Sean McCarty <sonotaps at yahoo.com>,	Jim
	Montgomery <jmontgomery at qwest.net>,	Patrick Hallman
	<p_hallman05 at hotmail.com>,	Karen & Neal Hartley
<hartleyKL at yahoo.com>,
	David Rosenberg <dsrosenberg1 at cox.net>,	Gary & Dorothy Morse
	<neveralone57 at yahoo.com>,	William Lawrence
<toppo1024 at yahoo.com>, Chad
	Mayer <chadmayer at yahoo.com>,	Carl Denig <carl.denig at cox.net>,
Robert
	Becker <roberthbecker at yahoo.com>,	"Travis L. F Bailey"
	<tbailey at leofriel.com>,	George Szaszari <cactushugger at usa.net>,
	Michele Wilcox <Roanimare at aol.com>,	Alley Yerger
	<ecologicaldesigngroup at yahoo.com>,	Steve Young
	<az1steveyoung at msn.com>,	Chris Harmon
<divefreak78 at hotmail.com>,
	Khem&MaryAnn Garewal <Khemg2000 at yahoo.com>,	"Robert D.
Messenger"
	<cia.robert at earthlink.net>,	Rika kasahara <rika at well.com>, Cindy
	Trowbridge <bluebug3 at cox.net>,	Larry & Janet Cowley
	<ljcowley at earthlink.net>,	Burt Baker
<zbinternational at hotmail.com>,
	"Bryan C. Smith" <fyreman232 at cox.net>,	"Wayne M. Raufman"
	<yoly2121 at netzero.net>,	Nancy Parks <nparks at aerialmapping.com>,
	Barbara Atkinson <havingfunwhen at yahoo.com>,	Stuart Robertson
	<stu4di2003 at yahoo.com>, Joel Mayhall <jmay2174 at yahoo.com>,	Carl
&
	Maria Erlandson <CErland593 at aol.com>,	Terry & Betty Spagnola
	<TSPAGG at USA.COM>, Jenny Hom <jennyhom at msn.com>,	"Luviminda \(Lou\)"
	<luvcalalang at yahoo.com>,	Rubra Prasad
<Rubra.Prasad at honeywell.com>,
	Sandy Van Horn <Sandy at simpleStudio.com>,	Clista McPherson
	<clistamcpherson at cox.net>,	Alexander Pena
<alexanderpena at mac.com>,
	Randy Yavitz <yavitz at hhylaw.com>,	"Leo A. Martin"
<leo at possi.org>,
	Laurie Scott <mine56les at yahoo.com>,	James McCay
<jmccay at hotmail.com>,
	Loren Lafoe <lorinlafoe at msn.com>,	Sherrill Jennings
	<CAROBEACH1 at aol.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8b32a$beb8ce80$1f22e644 at your55e5f9e3d2>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Avocados will absolutely take full sun provided that you irrigate at least
three feet deep at the drip line as soon as you detect dry soil three inches
deep. When you can sink a soil probe at least three feet deep at several
places around the drip line, you can shut the water off. Irrigate again when
the soil in the basin splitting the baseline is again  dry about three
inches deep. The species  I fertilize only with 21-0-0 at the drip line with
1/3rd the annual nitrogen requirements based on trunk diameter applied in
March, June and September. Avocados also require abundant phosphorous but
our soil is loaded with it already. All desert soils are deficient of
nitrogen and I rarely apply anything but 21-0-0.

Avocados cannot tolerate wet feet so your first consideration is for perfect
drainage or irrigation practices consistant with the soil percolation rate.
Irrigation water must flow all the way through the feeder root zone pulling
oxygen in behind it. Root-rot, occurring in the absense of oxygen, is
sudden, complete and irreversal.  I have seen four year old avocado trees
flat on the ground almost over night but inexplainable wilt is usually the
first symptom.
Drainage is critical because as the water table travels through the root
zone, vital oxygen (air) is drawn in behind it. 

Avocado roots are relatively shallow. Therefore, a three or four inch thick
surface-layer of organic mulch is an advantage in keeping feeder roots cool
but avocado foliage naturally shrouds the trunk all the way to the ground
and should be encouraged to do so unless you must park your car beneath it.
Micro-organisms feed off the bottom of the decaying mulch and their frass is
an important food source mfor avocados.

Avocado bark cannot tolerate direct sun, not even in San Diego. Extended
direct sun will always kill the bark and that kind of damage can be seen on
every tree I have ever seen in the valley except one in South Phoenix
growing in mostly shade provided by an overhang. A coat of white latex paint
will, however, totally protect bark exposed to full sun by reflecting rather
than adsorbing the rays.

Like most other trees, feeder roots are in a zone around the drip line, To
get proper irrigation, it is important to maintain a shallow trench roughly
splitting the drip line. The trench center line should coincide with the
drip line where a shallow 1\2 inch head of water should be maintained until
you can easily sink a soil probe 36 inches deep several places around the
drip line, deep irrigation is critical, then you can shut off the water.
With irrigation in the right place, one never has to irrigate inside of a
shallow trench. I have several healthy heavy bearing citrus that have never
been irrigated anyplace but the drip line in 40 years--unless it rained. Fat
chance.  Don't irrigate again until the soil is quite dry at least three
inches deep.

Avocados cannot tolerate wet feet and are not salt tolerant, both
requirements for deep flush irrigation and excellant drainage. 

I had once identified six seedling avocado trees bearing edible fruit  in
the Salt River Basin even though legend tells us the seed never runs true.
Avocados are always picked green and hard and ripened off the tree but I had
one tree in San Diego bearing abundant fruit that would never ripen except
for an eighth of an inch beneath the skin regardless of what I did to make
it happen. But it was a beautiful landscape speciman to which I later
grafted several other avocado varieties.

Avocado trees do well here but one has to deal with their peculiar sexuality
and poor tolerance to salt existing abundantly in Arizona water and soil.
Most plants can tolerate fairly well the natural water salt level but it is
the concentration of salt in the shallow root zone by evaporation that tends
to concentrate saline compounds to toxic levels. That is why deep irrigation
is very important to flush salt below the feeder roots. A four inch layer of
mulch covering the basin of avocados will help keep salt levels down.

Further questions?

Regards.

Dick Gross, Sec/Ed.
Arizona Rare Fruit Growers

----- Original Message -----
From: <CHEROKEE991 at cox.net>
To: <arid_gardener at Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 3:39 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

> JIM CAVINESS
> 85022
> CHEROKEE991 at COX.NET
> 
> WILL AVACADO TREES TAKE FULL AZ SUN
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener at CALS.arizona.edu
> http://CALS.arizona.edu/mailman2/listinfo/arid_gardener
> All contents copyright 2007. Arizona Board of Regents/University of
Arizona
>
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All contents copyright 2007. Arizona Board of Regents/University of Arizona

End of Arid_gardener Digest, Vol 51, Issue 11
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