Showmanship
of Project Animals
Cooperative
Extension, College of Agriculture & Life Sciences, The University of Arizona
Written by
Jim Sprinkle, Area Extension Agent, Animal Science
Dean Fish, Extension Agent, Agriculture and Natural Resources
Introduction
Sometimes, what should be an enjoyable and challenging experience
of showing a project animal becomes a traumatic experience which demoralizes
youth participants. Major reasons for these calamities are lack of preparation,
inadequate knowledge of how to prepare, selection of show animals that
the youth is physically incapable of handling, and/or a lack of time commitment
from the youth participant. The objective of this paper is to provide
information to help reduce the
occurrence of show ring fiascos.
Before you ever purchase a show animal, decide if you have the ability to commit to the minimum of 1 to 1 ¹/2 hours per day required in caring for a show animal. Also, enlist the help of qualified volunteer leaders in selecting a market animal and in designing a feeding, handling, and animal health regimen.
Correct Selection
If you are a first time participant in showing a market
animal and have not had extensive experience with large animals, a good
first time project would be to either show a hog or a lamb. This will
allow you to acquire useful show ring and management experience with a
market animal less inclined to cause physical injury. With either hogs
or lambs, the primary thing to consider
(besides price) in selecting a show animal is to choose an individual
with good conformation in the correct weight range. If your market animal
is too fat at the show, don’t expect to do well in a fitting and
showmanship class. An important part of showmanship is correct feeding
management to meet target weights for the show. Lambs should weigh from
60 to 75 lbs. approximately 100 days before the show. If lambs weigh more
than 85 lbs. at this time, it will require special management to avoid
getting the lamb too fat for the show. Typical average daily gains that
can be expected for lambs on a normal ration are from .50 to .75 lbs.
per day.
Hogs should weigh from 55 to 70 lbs. approximately 100 days before the show. If pigs weigh much less than the minimum weight shown above, it may be difficult to obtain the correct finish on the show pig at fair time.
| In addition to conformation,
serious consideration should be given to disposition when choosing
a market steer. Notice the flight zone and temperament of prospective
show steers as you enter the corral. Range calves will have a larger
flight zone than will calves raised on irrigated pasture. Even with
range calves, there is considerable variation among individuals. Choose
a steer with a blocky, growthy conformation and a mellow disposition. Avoid choosing a calf which has its head and tail raised excessively as you approach the flight zone (Figure 1). |
 |
|
Figure 1. Notice
the difference in these two heifers as the photographer approaches.
The Hereford heifer on the left is more likely to wheel and run
as opposed to the black white-face calf. The black white- face is
also thicker than the Hereford and would make a better show prospect.
|
The six “C’s” for Success
1. CORRECT SELECTION
Select an animal not only with good conformation but with a personality
you can work with.
2. CONSISTENCY
There are no shortcuts to success. A consistent program encompassing regular
workouts will
accomplish more than a last minute flurry of activity two weeks before
the show.
3. CALENDAR
Set calendar deadlines with ration changes, halter breaking, clipping
and grooming, and practice
shows. Maintain a regular daily schedule of feeding, handling, and grooming
your animal. Two weeks before the fair is not the time to start training
your show animal.
4. COMPENSATION
Learn what your animal’s conformational strengths and weaknesses
are so as to successfully
emphasize the positive and downplay faults. Similarly, if the show animal
has a personality
flaw that will make showing difficult, plan ahead and compensate for this
in the show ring.
5. CONFIDENCE
Show with confidence. Adequate preparation will allow you to show with
a smile on your face. Be throughly familiar with rations, average daily
gain, current weight, purchase weight, age, and breed of animal so you
can answer questions from the judge. It is also important to be able to
identify the different parts of the animal and the associated retail and
whole sale cuts. You can help "psych" yourself up by rehearsing
the show in your mind with good and bad things that could happen and how
you would handle them. Performing in a practice show with members of your
club or family acting as a judge and announcer and ring steward is helpful.
6. CHARACTER
Demonstrate impeccable ethics in the preparation preceding the show and
during the show itself. Be courteous to all other exhibitors, parents
and leaders. The livestock show is the culmination
of the project year for many livestock participants and the community.
Youth livestock exhibitors represent the livestock industry at fairs and
shows to the public. A little courtesy (as well as a lot of honesty) goes
a long way in relations with the public.
Taming the Show Animal
PIGS
The pig is our smartest farm animal. Pigs are naturally inquisitive and
respond well to a regular training program. As with any young animal,
the attention span is short, so training sessions should be limited to
15 to 20 minutes per day. Also, be sure to schedule training sessions
during the cool part of the day to avoid stressing the pig. Pigs are unable
to sweat and can become overheated easily. Never work with the pig when
he is hot enough to pant. Death occurs quickly in these instances. After
the pig becomes adjusted to its new surroundings, first training sessions
should be to get the pig used to having you close. Next, the pig should
be accustomed to the use of the show bat or whip. If a training pen can
be built adjacent to the dwelling pen, you will be able to avoid competition
with the feed trough. Teach the pig to turn to the right by gently tapping
on the left jowl. Teach him to turn to the left by tapping on the right
jowl. Teach him to move ahead by tapping lightly on the jowl or side.
Teach him to stop by holding the bat in front of his nose. Don't whack
him for not responding rapidly. You want to win his confidence, not make
things miserable. When you learned to tie your shoe, someone had to teach
you more than once. Repetition is the mother of memory.
LAMBS
When you show the lamb, you will control it with one hand under the chin
and one hand on the back of the neck. Initial efforts to control the lamb
are best accomplished using a halter. After the lamb is accustomed to
its surroundings, get someone to help you catch him and put a halter on
him. Rub him gently to get him used to your touch and smell. First attempts
to lead the lamb should
occur in a small enclosed area. To help the lamb lead off, you may need
to put one hand on the dock. When you do this, place the hand holding
the lead rope under the chin to aid in control. Make sure not to wrap
the rope around your hand, rather fold it up in the palm of the hand.
When teaching the lamb to lead off with the lead rope, don’t apply
a constant pressure on the rope. The lamb needs to feel rewarded for doing
what you wish and if you apply constant pressure on the rope it never
gets relief for moving off. Use gentle tugs to start the lamb moving and
reward him by giving him slack when he does. If the lamb braces against
you and doesn’t want to move off, step diagonally away from the head
and un-track the lamb to one side.
Sometimes, you may need to move the lamb diagonally from one side to another
until he finally learns what you are asking him to do. After the lamb
is halter broke, exercise him regularly. A rule of thumb is to walk the
lamb for about one mile at least every other day. Exercise is a key component
of the training and conditioning program of lambs. However, remember that
there is a fine line between adequate and excessive exercise. Exercise
should be used to help build muscle, not cause the lamb to become excessively
thin. A correctly finished lamb will have slight fat cover over the ribs
and from .05 to .10 inches of backfat. Continue to work with the lamb
in a pen without the halter to get him used to stopping, setting up, and
moving forward with minimal pressure.Sometimes a lamb may be difficult
to teach to lead when it becomes attached to another lamb in the same
location. If this proves to be the case, separate the lambs for several
weeks to allow the show lamb to bond to the 4-Her.
STEERS
Allow the steer two or three days to get used to his new surroundings.
First attempts to halter break a steer are aided by tying the steer up.
Do this when you have a long weekend with two or three free days to allow
you to closely monitor the steer. With the help of an experienced older
youth or adult, put a halter with a long lead rope (which he won’t
be able to break) on the calf. It will be easier to do this in a cattle
chute . If you don't have access to a chute, you can line a gate or panel
with plywood and place it parallel to the fence or wall of a small pen
or stall. Herd the calf into the alleyway you have made and close the
gate or panel diagonally behind him and secure it well with a rope. After
you have the halter on the calf, make sure the rope is plenty long to
avoid having him rip the rope out of your hands when you let him out.
We have found it to be effective to tie another long rope on the end of
the lead rope so that the lead rope is about 20 feet long. Allow the steer’s
momentum to help herd him towards the secure fence post you will tie him
to. Try your best to keep the steer from taking his nose away from you
as this will allow him to acquire additional leverage from his shoulders
to jerk you around. For the first time, tie the calf to the post at about
shoulder height to help prevent him from injuring himself when he pulls
back. Since he will probably pull the rope tight, dally around one post
and then go to an adjacent post to tie the lead rope off in a slip knot.
This will allow you to quickly release the calf if he gets in trouble
and will put you out of harm's way. If the calf is explosive while being
tied up, one trick is to tie the rope to a securely fastened new truck
inner tube. The inner tube will provide some slack and temperamental calves
will not throw themselves around as much. When the calf is tied up the
first time, don't pester him by trying to pet him. Allow him to concentrate
completely on giving in to the pressure of the lead rope. After the calf
has been tied up for an hour or two, take the halter off him and herd
him back to the pen (if different from the one you tied him in). He should
be standing quietly and not pulling back on the lead rope when you release
him. Some cattlemen recommend leaving the halter on and letting the
calf drag the lead rope for two or three days. However, there is a danger
in the calf getting hung up by the lead rope or in the case of a range
calf, being spooked and jumping a fence. Repeat the above process
of catching, haltering, and tying up the calf for two to three more days.
On the second day, you can start rubbing and brushing the calf, taking
special care not to get kicked. On the third and fourth day, you can tie
the calf lower to the ground (around two feet) and provide a feed tub
and water bucket to him. Provide enough slack in the rope to allow him
to comfortably lie down and eat. Tie him up for about three to four hours
and continue to rub and brush him for short periods of time. At the end
of the fourth day, the calf should be ready to be led by you and your
assistant. Do not let him take his nose away from
you or put his head down low and do not wrap the rope around your hand.
If he tries to take his nose away, you can anchor the elbow of your right
arm in his neck to provide leverage to pull his head back. If he is pulling
badly, you can also bring the rope in front of your hip and anchor your
left hand behind on your left seat bone and pull the calf's head with
your hips and shoulders. If he does not want to move out, un-track him
as described above for lambs. The assistant can also help urge the animal
forward from behind. If he runs, you and your assistant should try to
stay diagonal to his head at a 90 degree angle to obtain additional leverage
on the long rope and pull his nose to you. However, if you don't let him
take his nose away from you or get his head down,
he most likely will not run.
The entire purpose in tying up a calf is to teach him to give to the pressure
on the rope. If he can teach himself to do so, he will respect the rope
and it will make it easier when you start teaching him to lead. What you
want to avoid is to allow the animal to jerk loose from you. If he does
this a few times, it will quickly become a habit.
Training and Fitting Tips
PIGS
Continue to work the show pig with the show bat as described above. Monitor
weight gain to make sure the pig will be the correct weight at fair time.
Extension Publication 110065, Estimate Animal Body Weight from Body
Measurements, is an excellent way to monitor weight gain if you don’t
have access to a scale. One month before the show, it is a good idea to
weigh the pig on an actual scale to determine what the feeding program
needs to be for the final month. Even better, if you can weigh the pig
at six weeks and 4 weeks before the show, you can calculate the average
daily gain. This will make it easier to decide how to adjust the feed
ration. If you are unable to use a scale, monitor weight gain with a tape
measure (using Extension Publication 110065) every two weeks. The ideal
weight for the pig at the fair will be between 230 to 250 lbs. If the
pig is gaining weight too rapidly and runs the risk of being too fat at
fair time, either reduce feed to 2.5% to 3.0% of body weight per day and/or
substitute 10 to 15% small alfalfa pellets (as fed to rabbits) for some
of the commercial ration. Exercise in the cool of the day can also be
increased.
If the pig has a tendency to be weak in the shoulders one thing which
can be done is to elevate the feed trough up on a short ramp.
If pigs are not bathed until the time of the show, they may have a scaly
appearance. The Pacific Northwest Extension Publication PNW 330, 4-H Swine
Project recommends that pigs be washed several times before the show,
increasing to once a week before fair time and again the day before the
show. They also suggested applying oil (as in mineral oil) after the pig
is bathed the
first time to loosen the skin scales for the next bath.
Whenever pigs are bathed use a gentle soap (dish soap or livestock shampoo)
and hold the pig's ears closed with your hand as you rinse. Avoid the
use of heavily fragranced or perfumed shampoos and soaps. The Pacific
Northwest Publication also recommends that pigs be brushed dry (in the
direction the hair lies when dry) to prevent curling of the hair on the
sides.
Feet should be evaluated a month before the show to see if they need trimming.
If toes are long and the pig is down on his pasterns, then the excess
toe needs to trimmed with a pair of nippers. Have an adult volunteer leader
help you with this task if you have never done it before.
Clipping is done at fair time to the ears, tail, and underline. The Pacific
Northwest Publication recommends trimming the tail from a point just above
the switch to the tail setting. To blend the clipped hair with the unclipped
hair, lightly clip the blended area with the clippers standing on their
point. Additional grooming which can be done at the fair is to snip long
stray hairs on the snout
with a pair of scissors. A current trend is to body clip the entire hog
to emphasize muscling and leanness. Check with the particular show rules
to determine what grooming techniques are allowed.
LAMBS
Monitor the lamb’s weight gain with Extension Publication 110065
in a similar fashion as detailed above for pigs. Target show weight should
not exceed 110 lbs. for a small breed or 125 lbs. to 135 lbs. (depending
on muscling and frame) for a large frame black faced breed. If the lamb
is gaining weight too rapidly you can back him down to a grower ration
(50% hay : 50% grain) or substitute with a higher fiber, lower energy
grain such as oats. Thirty days before the show, you may want to replace
hay in the diet with alfalfa pellets to counteract the development of
a hay belly.
After the lamb is halter broke, continued daily exercise is important
in keeping him firm. If the lamb has a need for increased leg muscling,
hill climbing can be used to build up the muscle in the lower leg. After
the lamb has had his daily walk, practice leading him without the halter
to get him accustomed to the show ring procedure. If you are tall, kneel
beside the lamb’s shoulder to allow the judge to see. If you are
small, stand in front of the lamb’s head and neck to keep it from
getting away. As the judge approaches the front for a view, smoothly step
to the side. Train him to brace and set up for the show ring.
| The lamb is set up for the judge by setting the legs wide on all four corners with the back legs extended (Figure 2). Adjust the front legs with your hand. If you are an older youth you will also be able to reach the back legs to adjust them as desired. A smaller youth will need to rock the lamb back and forth to get the hind legs as desired, then adjust them further with the toe of the boot. Another method to set up the back legs is to push the brisket of the lamb until it braces with the back legs. Bracing is when the back and loin are held rigid for a judge’s close inspection by pushing against the breast with the knee or by pulling down on the chin with yourhands. When you do this, you will be standing in front of the lamb. The object is to bow up the lamb’s back and tense the loin and back muscles to make him feel more firm to the judge. |  |
|
Figure 2. The lambs
are set up as described in the text.
|
Since many lambs will jump and act unruly in the show ring
when the judge handles it, it is important to have the animal used to
this prior to the show. Get a parent or a large teenager to help you practice
handling the lamb while you keep it still and braced. It may take several
short training sessions to get the lamb used to this.
Feet trimming should be done at least a month before the show to avoid
getting the lamb sore. Long toenailscan be trimmed with a pair of nippers.
As you work with the lamb prior to the show, you should teach it to stand
quietly on a sheep stand. Never leave a lamb unattended on a sheep
stand. This will make grooming easier. All market lambs now are shown
slick sheared. Unless specified by the show rules, this does not mean
it has to be done at the time of the show. What seems to work well is
to shear the lamb in the early summer preceding a fall show to help keep
the lamb cool and gaining well. Two weeks before the show, shear him again.
This will allow enough time for the wool to grow out to cover the clipper
marks. If you will wash the lamb before you clip him the last time, it
will enable you to do a nicer job. Use a pair of hand shears to smooth
out the clipping job. The day before the show, wash the lamb again. Stains
can be removed with bleach or Woolite. Stains can also be disguised with
baby powder. After washing, you may want to put a blanket on the lamb
to keep it clean. Some people keep a blanket on the lamb the last two
weeks preceding the show. On the day of the show, you can smooth any areas
needed with the hand shears. Although the wool will be very short, some
use a wool card on the rump and loin area to accentuate thickness. Slightly
dampen the wool before carding.
STEERS
Steers should be on a finishing diet (70% to 80% grain) for around 140
days in order to finish properly. Feeding a high grain diet requires that
special precautions be taken to avoid problems such as bloat, acidosis,
and founder. Step up rations are used to bring the steer up to full feed
and increases in total feed consumption for greater steer size should
not exceed 2 or 3 lbs. per day. The amount of grain in a ration should
not be increased by more than 10% a week when changing over from grower
(50% hay : 50% grain) to finishing rations. When steers are on a finishing
ration, free choice molasses block with Rumensin® should be provided
or Rumensin or Bovatec® should be added to the feed to help prevent
acidosis and bloat. For more details on feeding management, ee Extension
Publication AZ1054, Feeding Management for Show Steers.
Weight of steers should be determined at 200, 140, 100, 60, 45, 30, and
15 days before the show using either a scale or by estimating from body
measurements using Extension Publication 110065. If the steer is not gaining
enough weight to reach the target finish weight (1100 to 1250 lbs. for
medium frame steers or 1250 to 1400 lbs. for large frame steers; Extension
Publication AZ1054), then the energy content of the feed ration will need
to be increased. Steers on a finishing ration should be consuming approximately
2.5% of body weight in total feed per day and the ration should be around
70% grain.If the steer is not gaining weight rapidly enough to meet the
target show weight, then a higher energy grain can be fed. The highest
energy farm grain is corn and the lowest energy grain is oats, with rolled
barley being intermediate. Most commercial show rations are comparable
to oats for energy content. Slowly substituting whole shelled corn for
part of the commercial ration will increase the energy content of the
ration. Do this over several days and be sure to mix the ration well.
If substitution of a higher energy grain still does not bring about the
desired weight gain, then you may try increasing the amount of feed or
increasing the ration to 80% grain. If you do this, it is critical that
extra protection be taken to prevent grain bloat by providing access to
Rumensin or Bovatec. Also, when feeding a high grain ration, do not allow
fine particles to be present in the grain ration. It is also essential
that fine particles not be allowed to accumulate in the feed box. Often
as a feed bag is emptied, there will be fine particles in the bottom of
the bag. Finely ground feed particles predispose a steer to developing
digestive problems such as acidosis and bloat. If the steer is gaining
weight too rapidly or getting fat, then reduce the energy content of the
diet by substituting oats for some of the grain and increase the daily
exercise from 1 mile to 1 ½ miles. If this does not work, then
reduce the grain content of the ration from 70% to 65 or 60%. As a last
result, reduce the total daily feed to 2% or 2.25% of body weight.
As mentioned immediately above, steers should be walked daily after they
are halter broke. This will keep them firm and help ensure a good appetite.
After you have exercised the steer, then spend a few minutes a few times
a week teaching him to set up and get used to the show stick. Steers should
be taught to stand square and straight with the legs apart on all four
corners. Move a leg back by pushing on the skin in between the toes with
the sharp part of the show stick. Pull a leg forward by placing the hook
on the show stick behind one of the dewclaws and pulling. Move the foot
sideways by pressing on the side of the foot at the coronary band. You
can also adjust the position of the feet by rocking the steer with the
halter.
When presenting the steer to a judge on a profile, place the far side
foot one foot’s length in front of the foot closest to the judge.
This will create the perception of depth and thickness (Beef Showmanship,
North Carolina Extension Publication ANS95-002B) It is also helpful to
have an assistant observe the best foot placement for visual evaluation
of the steer.
Another purpose of the show stick is to correct a sagging back. By rubbing
the belly with the hook on the show stick, you can encourage the steer
to raise his back. You can also use the show stick to level out the topline
by gently rubbing along the spine.
Steers should be taught to travel with the head up with your right hand
6 to 12 inches away from the head. Excess rope or strap on the lead is
neatly coiled in the right hand. The show stick is carried with the handle
up in the left hand. Never let a steer turn his nose away from you as
you are leading him as this allows him to use the weight advantage he
has in his shoulders to pull you around. Teach the steer to lead forward
with pressure and release so you are not having to tug on him all the
way around the ring.
One of the biggest challenges we face in Arizona with show steers is keeping
the hair long in order to have something to work with when the steer is
blocked for the fair. Some things which can be done to help keep hair
longer are:
1) keep the calf in the shade during the daytime;
2) use an electric fan or misting system in front of the calf's stall;
3) rinse the steer (water only) during the cool of the evening and comb
the hair upward and forward with a Scotch comb; and
4) allow the steer to be in an outside lot during the evening (4-H Beef
Project, Oregon State University Extension Publication 4-H 141).
Another thing the Oregon publication suggested to do to stimulate hair
growth was to body clip the steer above the hocks in late April (time
will vary based upon Arizona elevation zone and the time when winter hair
starts slipping).
Figure 3. Clipping a show steer. The body area (not the legs) below the dotted line is clipped. Areas above the dotted line are blended in by holding clippers upright and backwards on the point of the clippers. The tail is clipped from two hands width above the end of the tail bone up to the area where the rump starts curving inward and the muscle starts to separate. The switch of the tail is cut off to 1 to 2 inches below the end of the tail bone and combed through. The underline is clipped from the point of the elbow back to where the belly starts curving upward. On large framed steers needing more depth, the tail and underline may be shaped with less hair being removed. The neck is clipped for about one clipper blade width behind the poll straight down to the brisket. The object is to created a chiseled appearance to the shoulders. The topline is leveled very carefully by holding the left hand under the clipping hand to guide the clippers over the spine, stopping at the point indicated. Next, the back is again carefully clipped in the same manner for two clipper widths on each side of the backbone. Then, the clippers are held upright and backwards on the point of the clippers and the turn of the loin is blended in to accentuate the loin muscle. Do not make the back look flat on the top as this suggests over-finish. The hair on the hind legs is brushed forward and the hair on the front legs is brushed down.
Figure 4. To accentuate the
thickness of the hinquarters, the clippers
are held upright and backwards on the point of the clippers and
parallel adjoining horizontal strokes are made towards the side of the
steer. These blending strokes extend to the depth of the clipped area
of the tail.
When a steer is blocked properly, it can enhance show appearance.
The first time you clip a show steer, you should get someone experienced
to help you. As with lambs, the steer should be washed prior to being
clipped. This will help maintain sharpness of your clipper blades and
most closely simulate “show-ready” hair. At least one week before
the show, the steer’s head and tail
should be clipped. This will allow some time for the hair to smooth out.
The head is slick sheared except for the ears and an optional top knot.
The only exception to shearing the head would be for horned cattle, which
should not exist in a market class. The clipping line for the head is
about one clipper’s width behind the poll straight down on either
side of the neck. Figures 3 and 4 illustrate some of the key points of
blocking a steer for the show. The object is to have the hindquarters
and loin appear thick and the shoulders and underline trim. However, you
do not want to make the flank appear “cut up”, since this indicates
a lack of finish.
As the steer is being groomed throughout the summer, the hair is trained
upwards by first combing the hair down, then horizontally, then finally
diagonally towards the withers. The one exception are the front legs which
are combed down. When training an animal’s hair, you can use a pint
of hair conditioner and a pint of rubbing alcohol mixed in a gallon of
water to build body, condition hair and reduce tangles.
The day before the show, the steer is washed well with a mild dish soap
like Ivory® or a livestock shampoo like Orvus®. Next, in order
to help set the hair, mix 2 cups of Downy® in a bucket of water. Rub
the Downy in the steer’s haircoat with your hands. Rinse well, then
blow dry the hair to fluff it. The final passes with the blow drier should
be diagonal up towards the withers. On the day of the show, apply Sho-Glow®
or a similar livestock spray, comb up the hair, and finish off with a
blow drier.
Showing Tips
GENERAL
Preparation for the show begins months ahead as a daily training, grooming,
and feeding schedule is established. Practice shows with club and family
members will build confidence and will help you spot problems early on.
Review in your mind the good and bad things which could happen in the
show ring and how you would handle them. Know what your animal's conformational
strengths and weaknesses are and compensate accordingly in the show ring.
Be familiar with the performance record, history, and management of your
show animal so you can answer the judge's
questions knowledgeably. If the show animal has a disposition problem,
maintain a greater istance from other animals. If you have a steer that
likes to kick, make sure you warn the judge as he or she moves in close
for inspection.
Your job is to present the show animal to the judge in the best possible
manner. Don't stop the animal and set it up with its feet in a hole. Doing
so will make the back sag. It is preferable to stop the animal on level
ground or with the feet uphill. Take your time and don't get flustered
if something goes wrong. Most judges will allow you time to properly set
up your animal. Oftentimes, showmanship classes are won when the youth
showing an animal reacts wisely during an emergency.
Maintain eye contact with the judge and your show animal. As the judge
moves in closer to view your animal, make sure you are not in his or her
line of view. As the judge passes from one side of the animal to another,
smoothly shift your position to the opposite side so as not to obstruct
his or her view of your show animal.
An important thing to remember about showing in a strange place is that
the show animal may not want to drink the water. You can overcome this
problem by flavoring his drinking water for 7 to 10 days prior to the
show with something like molasses.
PIGS
If you practice showing in the actual showring, it is recommended to exit
the pig out of different gates instead of only one gate. Exiting from
the same gate each time may result in too much familiarity with the process
by the pig, causing it to hover in the corner around the gate during the
actual show.
|
Keep your animal at a respectable distance (Figure 5) from the judge to allow him or her to see the animal (10 to 20 feet). If you think ahead, you can avoid getting caught in a traffic jam where the judge can’t see your pig. Don't move the pig's feet with your hands, position the feet using your bat. Always keep the pig between you and the judge. It is a cardinal sin to beat on your pig in the show ring. Excessive force with a pig will cause bruising in the carcass the buyer purchases. If two pigs get in a fight, stand away, and wait for someone with a hog board to break it up. As a final note, carry a small brush with you to brush shavings off the pig's back. |
 |
| Figure 5. Two hog exhibitors have their pigs out of the crowd and in excellent position for the judge to evaluate the animal. |
LAMBS AND BEEF
Maintain adequate space between your animal and those immediately adjacent.
If the judge can't see your animal because you are too close to someone
else it could influence how you place in the class. Keep at least 3 feet
between animals when you are lined up side by side and at least one animal
length between animals when lined up in profile. It is rude to crowd someone
else's animal as it may be in heat or have a disposition problem which
could be disruptive. Also, a polite gesture to the judge is to close up
large gaps when animals are moved out of the line. When you are called
upon to switch places in a side by side lineup, move through the line
and push on the animal's head to turn to the right and come back through
the hole you just left. Move to your new slot from the rear of the animals.
BEEF
If you think your steer is underfinished, turn your steer's head towards
the judge as he or she handles your steer. If you think the steer is overfinished
or too fat, turn your steer's head away from the judge to firm up the
steer (4-H Beef Project, Oregon State University Extension Publication
4-H 141). Carry a Scotch curry comb in your pocket to smooth the steer's
hair back up after the judge handles him.
Conclusion
Showing an animal can be a rewarding and memorable experience, especially
if you have worked hard and are prepared. Thomas Paine said, “What
we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: ‘Tis dearness only that
gives every thing its value.” As you show, be considerate to others
in the ring. Allow them to have as pleasant of an experience as you hope
to have. Always be ethical in your show ring preparation and don't use
any illegal drugs or practice inhumane treatment of your market animal
as you prepare.
Literature Cited
- 4-H Beef Project. 1984. Oregon State University Extension Service Publication 4-H 141.
- 4-H Swine Project. 1990. Pacific Northwest Cooperative Extension (OR, WA, & ID) Publication PNW 330.
- Claeys, M. E. 1999. Beef Showmanship. North Carolina State University
Extension Publication ANS95-002B.
Available online at http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/an_sci/extension/animal/4hyouth/BEEFSHOW.htm. - Estimate Animal Body Weight. University of Arizona, Cooperative Extension Publication 110065.
- Sprinkle, Jim. 1999. Feeding Management for Show Steers. University of Arizona, Cooperative Extension Publication AZ1054.
The University of Arizona is an Equal Opportunity/Affirmative
Action Employer. Any products, services, or organizations that are mentioned,
shown, or indirectly implied in this publication do not imply endorsement
by the University of Arizona.
Document located http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/animal/az1277/
Published March 2002
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