VEGETABLE GARDEN:
CONTAINER GARDEN
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MG
Manual Reference
Ch. 10, pp. 47 - 54 |
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If you don't have space for a vegetable garden, or if
your present site is too small, consider raising fresh,
nutritious, homegrown vegetables in containers. A window sill,
patio, balcony, or doorstep can provide sufficient space for a
productive container garden. Problems with soil-borne diseases,
nematodes, or poor soil can also be overcome by switching to
container gardening. |
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Grow vegetables that take up little space, such as
carrots, radishes and lettuce, or crops that bear fruits over a
period of time, such as tomatoes and peppers, for best use of
space and containers. Dwarf or miniature varieties often mature
and bear fruit early, but most do not produce as well overall as
standard varieties. With increasing interest in container
gardening, plant breeders and seed companies are working on
vegetables specifically bred for container culture. These
varieties are not necessarily miniature or dwarf and may produce
as well as standard types if properly cared for. |
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The amount of sunlight that your container garden spot
receives may determine which crops can be grown. Generally, root
crops and leaf crops can tolerate partial shade, but vegetables
grown for their fruits generally need at least 5 hours of full,
direct sunlight each day, and perform better with 8 to 10 hours.
Available light can be increased somewhat by providing reflective
materials around the plants, e.g., aluminum foil, white-painted
surfaces, marble chips. |
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Container gardening lends itself to attractive
plantscaping. A dull patio area can be brightened by the addition
of baskets of cascading tomatoes or a colorful herb mix. Planter
boxes with trellises can be used to create a cool shady place on
an apartment balcony. Container gardening presents opportunities
for many innovative ideas. |
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Containers
There are many possible containers for gardening. Clay, wood,
plastic, metal are some of the suitable materials. Containers for
vegetable plants must:
- be big enough to support plants when they are fully grown
- hold soil without spilling
- have adequate drainage
- never have held products that would be toxic to plants or
people.
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Consider using barrels, cut-off milk and bleach jugs,
window boxes, baskets lined with plastic (with drainage holes
punched in it), even pieces of drainage pipe or cement block. If
you are building a planting box out of wood, you will find redwood
and cedar to be the most rot-resistant, but bear in mind that
cedar trees are much more plentiful than redwoods. Wood for use
around plants should never be treated with creosote or
pentachlorophenol (Penta) wood preservatives. These may be toxic
to plants and harmful to people as well. |
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Some gardeners have built vertical planters out of wood
lattice lined with black plastic and then filled with a
lightweight medium; or out of welded wire, shaped into cylinders,
lined with sphagnum moss, and filled with soil mix. Depending on
the size of your vertical planter, 2-inch diameter perforated
plastic pipes may be needed inside to aid watering. Whatever type
of container you use, be sure that there are holes in the bottom
for drainage so that plant roots do not stand in water. Most
plants need containers at least 6 to 8 inches deep for adequate
rooting. |
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As long as the container meets the basic requirements
described above it can be used. The imaginative use of discarded
items or construction of attractive patio planters is a very
enjoyable aspect of container gardening. For ease of care, dollies
or platforms with wheels or casters can be used to move the
containers from place to place. This is especially useful for
apartment or balcony gardening so that plants can be moved to get
maximum use of available space and sunlight, and to avoid
destruction from particularly nasty weather. |
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Media
A fairly lightweight potting mix is needed for container
vegetable gardening. Soil straight from the garden usually cannot
be used in a container because it may be too heavy, unless your
garden has sandy loam or sandy soil. Clay soil consists of
extremely small (microscopic) particles. In a container, the bad
qualities of clay are exaggerated. It holds too much moisture when
wet, resulting in too little air for the roots, and it pulls away
from the sides of the pot when dry. Container medium must be
porous in order to support plants, because roots require both air
and water. Packaged potting soil available at local garden centers
is relatively lightweight and may make a good container medium.
Soilless mixes such as peat-lite mix are generally too light for
container vegetable gardening, not offering enough support to
plant roots. If the container is also lightweight, a strong wind
can blow plants over, resulting in major damage. Also, soilless
mixes are sterile and contain few nutrients, so even though major
fertilizers are added, no trace elements are available for good
plant growth. Add soil or compost if you wish to use a sterile
mix. For a large container garden, the expense of prepackaged or
soilless mixes may be quite high. Try mixing your own with one
part peat moss, one part garden loam, and one part clean, coarse
(builder's) sand, and a slow-release fertilizer (14-14-14)
according to container size. |
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Planting
Plant container crops at the same time you would if you were
planting a regular garden. Fill a clean container to within an
inch of the top with the slightly damp soil mixture. Peat moss in
the mix will absorb water and mix much more readily if soaked with
warm water before putting the mix in the container. Sow the seeds
or set transplants according to instructions on the seed package.
Put a label with the name, variety, and date of planting on or in
each container. After planting, gently soak the soil with water,
being careful not to wash out or displace seeds. Thin seedlings to
obtain proper spacing when the plants have two or three leaves. If
cages, stakes, or other supports are needed, provide them when the
plants are very small to avoid root damage later. |
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Watering
Pay particular attention to watering container plants. Because
the volume of soil is relatively small, containers can dry out
very quickly, especially on a concrete patio in full sun. Daily or
even twice daily watering may be necessary. Apply water until it
runs out the drainage holes. On an upstairs balcony, this may mean
neighbor problems, so make provisions for drainage of water. Large
trays filled with coarse marble chips work nicely. However, the
soil should never be soggy or have water standing on top of it.
When the weather is cool, container plants may be subject to root
rots if maintained too wet. Clay pots and other porous containers
allow additional evaporation from the sides of the pots and
watering must be done more often. Small pots also tend to dry out
more quickly than larger ones. If the soil appears to be getting
excessively dry (plants wilting every day is one sign), group the
containers together so that the foliage creates a canopy to help
shade the soil and keep it cool. On a hot patio, you might
consider putting containers on pallets or other structures that
will allow air movement beneath the pots and prevent direct
contact with the cement. Check containers at least once a day, and
twice on hot, dry, or windy days. Feel the soil to determine
whether or not it is damp. Mulching and windbreaks can help reduce
water requirements for containers. If you are away a lot, consider
an automatic drip emitter irrigation system. |
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Fertilizing
If you use a soil mix with fertilizer added, then your plants
will have enough nutrients for 8 to 10 weeks. If plants are grown
longer than this, add a water-soluble fertilizer at the
recommended rate. Repeat every 2 to 3 weeks. An occasional dose of
fish emulsion or compost will add trace elements to the soil. Do
not add more than the recommended rate of any fertilizer, since
this may cause fertilizer burn and kill the plants. Container
plants do not have the buffer of large volumes of soil and humus
to protect them from over-fertilizing or over-liming. Just because
a little is good for the plants does not guarantee that a lot will
be better. |
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General care
Vegetables grown in containers can be attacked by the various
types of insects and diseases that are common to any vegetable
garden. Plants should be periodically inspected for the presence
of foliage-feeding and fruit-feeding insects as well as the
occurrence of diseases. Protect plants from very high heat caused
by light reflection from pavement. Move them to a cool spot or
shade them during the hottest part of the day. Plants should be
moved to a sheltered location during severe rain, hail, or wind
storms, and for protection from early or late frosts. |
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Indoor container gardening with vegetables
If you want fresh, home-grown vegetables over the winter, or if
you don't have an outdoor space in which you can place containers,
it is worth trying some indoor container gardening. Of course you
cannot have a full garden in the house, but a bright, sunny window
can be the site for growing fresh food all year. Some
small-fruited tomatoes and peppers, several types of lettuce,
radishes, and many herbs are among the plants you can include in
the indoor garden. |
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Follow directions given above for preparing pots and
for watering, fertilizing, etc. However, note that plants will dry
out less quickly indoors and will also grow more slowly, needing
less fertilizer. To make watering easy it is wise to set the pots
in large trays with an inch or two of decorative stones in them.
Not only will this prevent your having to move the plants in order
to water them, which may discourage you from watering when you
should, but it will also provide humidity, which is a major
requirement, especially during winter when the house is warm and
dry. |
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As mentioned before, a sunny window, preferably
south-facing, is almost a must for indoor vegetable growing.
Fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers will also need
supplemental light, such as a combination warm-white/cool-white
fluorescent fixture, during winter months. Insufficient light will
result in tall, spindly plants and failure to flower and set
fruit. |
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Herbs are a first choice for many indoor gardeners.
Many are less demanding than vegetable plants, and cooks find it
pleasant to be able to snip off a few sprigs of fresh parsley or
chop some chives from the windowsill herb garden. Chives grow like
small onions with leaves about 6 inches tall. These plants prefer
cool conditions with good light, but will grow quite well on a
windowsill in the kitchen. One or two pots of chives will provide
leaves for seasoning salads and soups. Plant seeds in a 6-inch
pot. The plants should be about 1 inch apart over the entire
surface area. It will require about 12 weeks from the time seeds
are planted until leaves can be cut. For variety, try garlic or
Chinese chives, which grow in a similar fashion, but have a mild
garlic flavor. |
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Parsley seeds can be planted directly into 6-inch pots,
or young, healthy plants can be transplanted from the garden. One
vigorous plant per pot is enough. Standard parsley develops
attractive, green, curly leaves about 6 or 8 inches tall. Italian,
or flat-leaved, parsley has a slightly stronger flavor and is a
favorite for pasta dishes. Leaves can be clipped about 10 to 12
weeks after planting the seeds. |
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Cilantro, or the leaves of the young coriander plant,
can be grown in the windowsill garden. Cilantro is used in
Oriental and Mexican dishes, but it is not available in most
grocery stores and must be used fresh. Grow cilantro as you would
parsley. Thyme and other herbs will also grow well indoors if
given the right conditions. |
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The small-fruited varieties of tomatoes such as Tiny
Tim, Small Fry, and the paste tomato, Roma, may be raised quite
satisfactorily in the home. They will challenge your gardening
ability, and supply fruits which can be eaten whole, cooked, or
served with salad. The Tiny Tim tomato grows to a height of about
12 to 15 inches. Small Fry, which is about 3 feet tall, and Roma
will need more space and should be located on an enclosed porch or
in a sun room. Several varieties have been developed for hanging
baskets; they may be worth experimenting with. |
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Some of the small-fruited peppers may be grown as
indoor plants. Like tomatoes, they require warm, bright conditions
in order to grow well indoors. Fruits will be ready to harvest
from peppers and tomatoes about ten weeks after planting.
Whiteflies and aphids may present a problem on indoor tomato and
pepper plants. Keep a close watch for these pests so they do not
get a good start in your planting. Yellow sticky traps, either
purchased or homemade, are effective in trapping whiteflies.
Insecticidal soap or other pesticide approved for vegetable plants
can be used to control aphids. Fortunately, you will be less
likely to experience problems with such outdoor pests as tomato
hornworms, corn earworm (in peppers), and late blight than you
would if plants were outside. |
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For a quick-growing crop, try radishes. These must be
grown very rapidly if they are to be crisp and succulent. Scatter
radish seeds on moist soil in a 6-inch pot. Cover with 1/4 inch of
soil and place a piece of glass or plastic wrap over the pot to
conserve moisture until the seeds germinate. Carrots are slower,
but can be grown in the same way; use the small-rooted varieties,
such as Little Finger, for best results indoors. |
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Experiment with various types of lettuce. Leaf lettuce
and the miniature Tom Thumb butterhead are some to try. Space them
according to package directions. Keep lettuce moist and in a very
sunny spot. |
If light is limited, an old standby for fresh taste and
high food value is sprouted seeds. Almost any seeds can be
sprouted: corn, barley, alfalfa, lentils, soybeans, rye, peas,
radish, mung beans, sunflowers, etc. Use only special seeds for
sprouting available from health food or grocery stores to avoid
the possibility of getting seeds treated with pesticide. Use any
wide-mouthed container such as a Mason or mayonnaise jar. Soak
seeds overnight, drain, and place in the container. Cover with a
double cheesecloth layer held with rubber bands, or a sprouting
lid. Set the container in a consistently warm spot and rinse and
drain seeds two or three times daily. In 3 to 5 days, sprouts will
be 1 to 3 inches long and ready for harvesting. |
Table 10.13
INFORMATION FOR GROWING VEGETABLES IN CONTAINERS
Vegetable* |
Light Requirements** |
Minimum container
size |
Inches between plants
in containers |
Days from seed to
harvest |
Comments |
Beans, Bush |
FS |
2 gal. |
2 - 3 |
45 - 60 |
Several plantings, 2-week intervals |
Beets |
FS/PS |
1/2 gal. |
2 - 3 |
50 - 60 |
Thin plants when 6 - 8" tall |
Carrots |
FS/PS |
1 qt. |
2 - 3 |
65 - 80 |
Several plantings, 2-week intervals |
Cabbage |
FS/PS |
5 gal. |
12 - 18 |
65 - 120 |
Requires fertile soil |
Chard, Swiss |
FS/PS |
1/2 gal. |
4 - 6 |
30 - 40 |
Harvest leaves |
Cucumbers |
FS |
5 gal. |
14 - 18 |
70 - 80 |
Requires hot weather, Support vining
types |
Eggplant |
FS |
5 gal. |
1 / container |
75 - 100 |
Requires fertile soil |
Kale |
FS/PS |
5 gal. |
10 - 15 |
55 - 65 |
Harvest leaves |
Lettuce, Leaf |
PS |
1/2 gal. |
4 - 5 |
35 - 40 |
Several plantings, 2-week intervals |
Mustard Greens |
PS |
1/2 gal. |
4 - 5 |
35 - 40 |
Several plantings, 2-week intervals |
Onions, Green |
FS/PS |
1/2 gal. |
2 - 3 |
70 - 100 |
Needs lots of moisture |
Peppers, Bell |
FS |
2 gal. |
1 / container |
110 - 120 |
Requires hot weather |
Squash, Summer |
FS |
5 gal. |
1 / container |
50 - 60 |
Plant only bush type |
Tomatoes |
FS |
5 gal. |
1 / container |
55 - 100 |
Stake & prune or cage |
Tomatoes, Cherry |
FS |
1 gal. |
1 / container |
55 - 100 |
Helps to stake & prune |
Turnips |
FS/PS |
3 gal. |
2 - 3 |
30 - 60 |
Harvest leaves & roots |
* Consult seed catalogs for varieties adapted to container
culture.
** FS = Full Sun, FS/PS = Full Sun, tolerates Partial Shade, PS =
Partial Shade |
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