Several ant species may be found in or around
the home. They enter houses in search of food in the early spring
through late fall when their normal food is not readily available
outside. Usually their presence is merely annoying but there are
certain species that are undeniably problematic.
Fire ants sometimes nest indoors in wall voids.
Bath traps, shower stalls, and hot water heater walls are particularly
well-suited areas for fire ants. When fire ants are a problem
what is the best solution? The key to fire ant control is to locate
all mounds and destroy them. Mounds can be treated by using appropriate
fire ant specific baits.
Thief ant colonies are found both indoor and outdoors.
Nests are large and often have tiny tunnels connecting to the
nearby nests of larger ants from which they habitually steal food
and brood. Outside they can be located under rocks, around
walkways and house foundations, in rotting wood and exposed soil.
Indoor nests are found in any small crevice, particularly woodwork
and masonry, under floors and behind baseboards.
These ants are prevalent in households, in which
they forage for foods with a high protein content such as grease,
cheese, meat and hollowed out seeds for the oil content.
It is important to note that due to their small size, they can
easily enter packaged foods. Unlike most other ants, they do not
appear to feed on sweets. They travel great distances in
search of food, and once a source is located, they form a trail
of ants from the food to the nest.
Carpenter ants prefer moist softened wood and colonies
are often established within buildings in areas where water leakage
occurs. This may be areas such as porch pillars, around bathtubs,
sinks, roof leaks, poorly flashed chimneys and poorly sealed windows
and doorframes
If an initial colony of carpenter ants is first
established outside within 300 feet of a building, satellite colonies
may then be formed inside the building. It is therefore important
to take note of what is happening outside before they come in.
Look for the initial outside nest in decayed wood, such as dead
trees, stumps, logs or decorative landscape wood. Once established,
the ants may eventually extend their tunneling into sound wood.
If a carpenter ant colony has been identified in the yard, take
steps to remove it before it migrates into the home.
When carpenter ants are spotted inside dwellings,
it does not mean that a colony has also been established inside
the house, they may be simply foraging for food. This is called
non-seasonal foraging. Outdoor colonies typically forage during
the spring and summer only.
This ant is named after the pyramid shaped projection
on the top of its thorax. There are two species in Arizona;
the simple pyramid ant (C. insana) and the bicolored
pyramid ant (C. bicolor). Neither species bears
a stinger, instead when alarmed they produce an odor, like that
of rotten coconut to deter predators.
Pyramid ants will feed on a variety of foods including
other insects. Although they are carnivorous and predacious,
they have a preference for sweets, particularly honeydew of sap-sucking
insects such as aphids, mealybugs, leafhoppers and whiteflies.
The ants will tend to these insects and protect them. When
foraging the workers move quickly in strong, easily detected trails.
Booklice (or Psocids) may look like lice but they
are not related. Living in damp environments, they feed on mold
and mildew. They are often associated with books and papers though
they are also prevalent in drains, wall cavities around leaking
pipes, wall voids, stored food products and floor rugs. Outside
the house, psocids live in bird or mammal nests, vegetation, in
tree bark and even in animal fur.
Although annoying, booklice rarely cause any damage
to the books or papers they frequent.
Roaches are capable of transmitting a variety
of diseases, but are most often implicated in the transmission
of salmonella, the causal agent of some food poisoning. Cockroaches
also cause respiratory problems to individuals sensitive to the
allergens they produce.
There are at least 20 different species of cockroaches
in Arizona, probably about 10 are native and rarely encountered
in the urban environment. Those established in urban areas include:
American, Brownbanded, Field, German, Oriental,
Surinam and Turkestan.
Most cockroaches are tropical or sub-tropical
in origin and generally live outdoors. However, some species have
adapted well to living indoors with humans. Though it is true
that they prosper in clutter, filth and grime, cockroaches at
times infest even the most sanitary and well-organized homes and
buildings.
Cockroaches are often carried into homes in infested
foodstuff, particularly dried pet foods, cardboard boxes and in
seasoned firewood. They also enter around loose-fitting doors
and windows, where electrical lines or water and steam pipes pass
through walls, and through sewerlines. Cockroaches will feed on
any unprotected kitchen goods contaminating food with excrement
and salivary secretions. They also eat materials such as leather,
wallpaper paste and bookbinding.
Most cockroaches are nocturnal and appear during
daylight only when disturbed or where there is a heavy infestation.
They prefer warm, dark, humid shelters, and often move around
the kitchen sink or drain board. They prefer to rest in cracks
around, under or inside cupboards and cabinets; where pipes or
electrical wiring pass along or through a wall; behind window
or door frames, loose baseboards or molding strips; under tables
and chairs; in upholstered furniture; in bathrooms; in radio and
TV cabinets; and in motor compartments of refrigerators, washing
machines and other appliances. It is important to know where cockroaches
are hiding in your home because these are the locations that must
be cleaned.
Crickets may be considered a nuisance because of
their constant chirping; however, none of our species bite or
are likely to carry diseases. Several species of crickets are
found in Arizona, however, only two are generally seen.
Field crickets are known to chew on and damage
woolens, cottons, silks, synthetic fabrics, furs and carpeting.
Clothes with perspiration stains or food spills are particularly
attractive. Outdoors, they may damage young garden plants and
annual flowers.
- Follow the general measures. Use caulking and weather stripping
to fill all openings, cracks, gaps, and holes in foundation,
siding, windows, doors, screens, and other possible entry points.
- Remove vegetation and debris that could serve as hiding places
or breeding sites near the house.
- Keep all doors closed at night. Make sure all doors and windows
are tight-fitting.
- Maintain sanitary conditions in the kitchen, and do not leave
food out overnight.
- Check potted plants for Indian house crickets.
- Limit the use of night lighting, which attracts crickets,
and draw curtains in lit rooms.
E) Earwigs
Earwigs are outdoor insects that live in damp environments
and feed mainly on dead plant material. Contrary to general myth,
earwigs do not climb inside ears. In fact, on the pestiferous
scale they are ranked low in importance. Their only significance
is the occasional small damage to certain flowers and some vegetables.
They are not carriers of any disease and do not bite. The European
earwigs are known for invading homes at certain times of the year.
A high population of earwigs usually follows a wet spring.
Earwig
Prevention
- Earwigs do not require much more than general exclusion measures
such as caulking cracks, fitting doorstops and screens etc.
- Earwigs like to hide under cloth. Therefore, laundry should
be shaken out before being brought inside.
- Limit outside lights, and draw curtains in lit rooms. Earwigs
are attracted to lights in large numbers.
- There are a few old gardener’s techniques for reducing
the earwig population in the yard. One consists of filling some
cat food cans (they are especially attracted to fish oil) with
a quarter inch of vegetable oil and placing them around the
garden. Each day the cans are emptied of trapped earwigs and
replaced until no more earwigs are found. Another trick includes
placing pieces of corrugated cardboard that are taped at one
end outside. The earwigs will crawl in, but will not be able
to get out (because they cannot crawl backwards).
F) House
flies
The familiar gray and yellowish house
fly (Musca domestica) is attracted to food odor.
The larvae or maggots live in and feed on manure or decaying plant
material. More than simply being a nuisance they are primary carriers
of a variety of disease organisms, including typhoid, cholera,
diarrhea, anthrax, polio, and salmonella. These diseases are spread
through contact with unprotected food and contaminated fecal matter.
House flies mating
Prevention
- Follow the guidelines for general exclusion e.g. caulking
cracks, fitting door sweeps etc.
- A moist compost bin will be a breeding site for houseflies.
Create dry compost by scattering it around the bin so that it
will dry rapidly. Flies will not lay eggs on dry manure.
- As long as a family member is not allergic to stings, allow
parasitic wasps in the yard and plant annual flowers and alyssum
to attract them. These insects parasitize fly maggots lowering
the population outside thus lowering the incidence of flies
inside the house. Birds can also be attracted to the yard by
providing them with a water source.
- Employ correct sanitation methods within the home to eliminate
possible breeding sites. Outside garbage cans and dumpsters
should have tight-fitting lids and be emptied and cleaned regularly.
All garbage receptacles should be located as far from building
entrances as possible.
G) Moth
flies
Moth flies are named because their furry wings
and feathery antennae make them look like miniature moths; however,
they are actually a unique group of small flies. They are also
known as drain flies, filter flies and sewage flies, named after
the breeding sites in which they reside.
These breeding sites consist of rich organic decaying
material. In the urban environment, they are commonly found in
clogged roof gutters, under potted plants, in garbage cans, around
septic tanks, in moist compost, and poorly cleaned drains, particularly
in outflow pipes of toilets and sinks.
Mothfly
Prevention
- Unused sewage pipes must be cleaned and capped off.
- Clogged sink overflows must be cleaned. Use an enzymatic drain
cleaner followed by very hot water, and if necessary by manual
cleaning with a stiff brush. Bacterial or enzymatic cleaners
are effective. DF 5000 Gel™ contains live, beneficial
bacteria that destroy organic material inside the drains, removing
the habitat in which the moth flies breed.
- Water leaks must be fixed along with any other moisture problems
around the home.
- Ensure your compost bin is a dry environment. Scatter moist
compost around the bin to dry it out faster.
- Regularly clean out roof gutters.
H) Silverfish
and Firebrats
Silverfish and firebrats are sometimes known as
“bristletails”. They often live in damp, cool places such as basements,
bathrooms and laundry rooms. Adult silverfish and firebrats are
Z\x inch in length. They are wingless insects with two long, slender
antennae, and a flat carrot-shaped body, covered with scales,
that tapers down to three long “bristles” at the end. Both silverfish
and firebrats move fast in a wiggling motion, resembling the swimming
action of a fish.
Silverfish
Houses provide a perfect habitat for silverfish.
Preferring moderate temperatures between 70 and 80 °F, and a relative
humidity of between 75 to 95%, they collect near sinks and other
plumbing fixtures in bathrooms, kitchens and basements. Silverfish
are most often discovered in sinks and bathtubs, though they can
be present throughout the house. Silverfish are frequently introduced
with newly installed dry wall, feeding on the paper backing and
occasionally large populations form within new buildings where
the walls are still damp from plaster and fresh lumber.
Firebrats normally live outdoors under rocks, leaves
and inside bird nests where heat and moisture are generated by
the natural composting process. However, they are also known to
occur in homes. Like silverfish, firebrats enjoy a humid environment,
however they prefer much higher temperatures of 90°F and above.
Consequently, they are discovered less, because they collect around
furnaces in basements, water heaters in attics, inside fireplaces
and within the insulation surrounding hot water pipes.
Silverfish and firebrats are mostly nocturnal,
foraging at night. They prefer vegetable matter with a high carbohydrate
and protein content. Indoors however, they will feed on almost
anything, including dried meat, other insects, starch, paper,
glue, sugar, molds, cereals and fabric containing cotton, linen,
rayon and silk. They seldom damage fibers of animal origin such
as wool or hair. These insects are hardy and can live without
food for up to one year.
Silverfish and firebrats are considered pests because
they consume and stain foods, fabric, books and wallpaper. Damage
is manifested as yellowish stains and notched edges, although
this is not usually observed. Significant damage is only found
in the case of a large infestation that has been present over
long periods of time. Molted scales and excrement are also left
behind.
Prevention
- Fabric and stacked paper products should not be stored for
long periods.
- Spilled food must be cleared away.
- Reduce water availability by repairing leaky plumbing and
installing adequate extraction fans to laundry and bathroom
areas.
- Lowering the home’s relative humidity can be accomplished
with dehumidifiers. Lighting a dark area is helpful as it forces
the insects out of their shelter to new sites where they can
be managed more easily.
- Outdoors, mulch should not be placed right up next to the
house.
- In the case of a severe infestation, household formulations
of boric acid may be helpful. Eradicating these insects can
be difficult as they often reside between wall partitions, in
insulation materials and in other protected places.
I) Vinegar
Flies (Fruit Flies)
Vinegar flies are so named due to their attraction
to the sour odor of fermentation and bacterial waste. They are
also known as fruit or pomace flies. Vinegar flies are mainly
found on wet decaying plant matter or rotting fruit. This pest
poses little threat to people, though it does transmit sour rot
organism, which aids in the decay of your exposed fruit.
Prevention
- Remove any rotten fruit or other attractive vegetation.
- Follow the guidelines for general exclusion. For example caulking
cracks, fitting door sweeps and screens etc. Consider that these
small flies only require tiny entry points.
- Create dry compost by scattering and turning the bin so that
it will dry rapidly.
- Compost, garbage cans and dumpsters should have tight-fitting
lids and be cleaned regularly. All garbage receptacles should
be located as far from building entrances as possible.
STRUCTURAL PESTS
Structural insects are those that attack the very
structure (wood) of the house. The main pests responsible are
carpenter ants (previously mentioned), termites, powderpost beetles
and rodents. They can all cause damage to structural property.
A) Carpenter
Ant
Refer to the general pest section
B) Carpenter
Bees
Carpenter bees resemble bumble bees. They are
large, C\v to 1 inch long, heavy-bodied, blue-black to black colored
with a green or purplish metallic sheen. Carpenter bees are solitary
bees. That is, they do not live in a “hive” such as honey bees
do. They do, however, tend to accumulate in certain areas.
Carpenter bee
Although technically “wood-boring insect”, they
are not really considered a true structural pest. They will not
spread throughout the structure, but they will utilize any outside
wood that is not painted or finished. Carpenter bees get their
name from their ability to drill through wood and nest in the
hole. Their drilling creates a near-perfect hole, approximately
Z\x inch in diameter. The holeis usually located on the underside
of the wood surface, including siding, decks, overhangs, fence
posts and window frames. Although the hole appears to be only
an inch or two deep, it rarely ends there.
Along with the coarse frass (sawdust and insect
droppings) found underneath the nest entrance, there are usually
dirty-yellow streaks of fecal matter staining the wood below the
hole. If you are near a nest you will likely be buzzed by the
male carpenter bee on guard. He is loud and aggressive, but does
not have the ability to sting you. The female can sting but she
is normally very docile. A single pair (male and female) occupies
each nest.
Prevention
- Try to paint everything, even the areas you don’t see, such
as under windowsills and under banisters and railings. Use
a good exterior primer, two coats; follow up with at least one
coat of finish.
- Covering wooden components with aluminum sheething will work
only if done correctly. This means that you must eliminate
any spaces where the bees will find the wood. They can
squeeze through incredibly small places, so you have to be very
thorough. Spaces or holes Z\v inch or larger will let
these bees through.
- You should use pressure-treated wood in any outdoor project
such as decks and playhouses. Pressure-treated wood needs
no paint, but can be painted if you wish.
- Cedar does offer some protection, but even cedar is attacked
if the conditions are right. California redwood is often attacked
by the eastern carpenter bee. Redwood is expensive and the wood
very soft, suitable more in a decorative situation rather than
a structural one.
C) Termites
In nature, termites function as decomposers that
breakdown dead or live wood that accumulates in and on the soil.
Termites are social insects and the makeup of the colony can be
somewhat complex. The beneficial products of this breakdown process
are returned to the soil as humus. In Arizona, we have primarily
two different types of termites, the drywood and subterranean
termites. These insects are the most destructive pests of wood,
causing more than $1.7 billion in damages and cost of control
each year in the U.S. alone. Their presence in structures is seldom
noticed until damage is discovered or the termites swarm within
the building.
About 46 species of termites occur in the continental
United States. At least 17 of these are known in Arizona, and
it is possible that two or three additional species remain to
be discovered within the state.
Differences Between Drywood
And Subterranean Termites
Subterranean
- Nest in soil–connection with soil usually necessary.
- Generally smaller insects; therefore, tunnels and chambers
usually smaller.
- Galleries usually run parallel to grain in the softer “spring
wood.”
- Frequently build free shelter tubes or covered runways of
mud and fecal material.
- Fecal material is soft and used in constructing nest and shelter
tubes.
- Larger, rapidly-growing colonies work faster, damage often
more severe.
- Flights occur day or evening, more often associated with rain.
Subterranean termites
Drywood
- Nest in wood–ground contact unnecessary.
- Larger insects; tunnels and chambers usually larger.
- Galleries often cut across grain of wood; attack both softer
“spring” wood and harder “summer” wood.
- Do not commonly build exposed shelter tubes.
- Fecal material in form of hard, dry pellets–appearing
like sawdust in galleries or in piles outside.
- Smaller, slower-growing colonies.
- Work more slowly, damage generally less severe.
- Flights more often occur evening or night, usually not closely
associated with rain.
- An extension publication on the subject of drywood termites
is available at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1232.pdf
Drywood termites
Prevention
- When choosing a new house ask questions about its construction.
The most common form of house construction in Arizona is a floating
slab and it is quite susceptible to termite attack. Termites
enter where the slabs meet the walls and through hidden expansion
joints. Monolithic slab construction contains no joints and
is therefore more resistant to termite entry. However, it is
not termite-proof. Some settling will occur regardless of how
the slab is laid, and over time cracks may appear.
- Currently most new homes are treated with a continuous chemical
barrier (termiticide) beneath and next to the slab that is guaranteed
to protect a home from subterranean termites for five years.
- Wood-to-ground contact should be eliminated, i.e. wooden porches
should be separated from the building proper and wooden steps
should rest on a concrete base at least 6 inches above grade.
Wood partitions and posts should be installed in basements after
the concrete floor is poured and should never extend into or
through concrete. Keep soil or mulch away from wood siding.
Remove all wood scraps and do not bury them in soil near the
house foundation.
- Keep wooden planters, trellises and raised beds away from
foundations.
- Keep firewood away from the house and elevated off the ground.
- Make sure termite barriers are applied under new additions.
- Promptly repair leaks and faulty drainage.
- Fill any cracks in your foundation and seal any openings,
particularly where utility pipes and wires enter from the outside.
- Eliminate standing water, which pools against the foundation.
Re-grade the ground so that water drains away from the house.
- Avoid putting landscape plants or trees close to the building
and make sure turf sprinklers and drip irrigation emitters are
not soaking the home walls or foundation.
The homeowner should be encouraged to inspect their
homes at least once or twice a year for signs of termite activity.
Pay particular attention to additions such as porches or patios,
and any area where wood contacts the ground. All additions to
the house should have foundations that are pre-treated with a
termiticide. Look for mud tubes, holes in wood with clean galleries
cut across the grain, pellets or sawdust, piles of wings and swarming
insects. If there are indications of an infestation, the homeowner
can also request a professional inspection. Check with friends
or neighbors and/or the Better Business Bureau for recommendations.
You should also contact the Arizona Structural Pest Control Commission
for information regarding company licenses.
D)
Wood-boring Beetles Bees
The most common wood boring beetles can be classed
in three groups: the true powderpost beetle (lyctid), the false
powder beetle (bostrichid), and the deathwatch beetle (anobiid).
Attack by these pests is characterized by small to medium sized
holes (around Z\zn to Z\, inch in diameter) in the infested wood
where adult beetles have exited.
Powderpost beetles
Between these three beetles, any wood in the home
can be attacked and one species of bostrichid beetle known as
the leadcable borer is capable of boring through lead cable coverings,
causing electrical damage.
If you live in an older home (>25 years) that contains
a sub-area crawl space, it is highly recommended to have your
home inspected for the presence of wood destroying organisms,
which would include visible evidence of woodboring beetles.
Prevention
- Look for woodworm activity in any wooden artifacts or lumber
introduced into the home. If the wood is infested, holes will
be present with accompanying piles of fine powder.
- Cover wood surfaces with paint, polyurethane or water sealants.
This will protect wood from moisture problems and help prevent
the beetles from penetrating the wood. For aging wood, first
sand down any cracks or other entrance points before covering.
- Although expensive, installation of a central heating and
air conditioning unit may help chronically infested buildings.
With the advent of such systems, the cases of beetle damage
have been dramatically reduced and significant problems are
not likely, even with the more serious beetles.
- Correct lumber moisture problems commonly found in the
crawl spaces. The crawl space should be well ventilated and
have a vapor barrier. Plastic sheets can also be installed
to keep the lumber from getting too moist.
- Boracare® (ethylene glycol) is an effective insecticide,
applied to unvarnished wood by brush or a hand held pump sprayer.
It is particularly appropriate for extensive use in the case
of log homes. Boracare® will also help in the prevention
of carpenter ants, carpenter bees, termites, fungus and wood
rot.
In the event of a reaction to a bug bite or sting,
call Arizona Poison and Drug Information Center at 1-800-222-1222,
your primary care physician, or 911 if the reaction is serious.
If it is safe, try to collect the animal. A correct identification
and punctual timing is important to avert a potentially life-threatening
reaction.
A) Bed Bugs
Bed bugs feed on the blood of humans, rodents and
other animals. These insects are capable of transmitting certain
disease causing organisms. They also inject saliva during feeding
which can produce large itchy swellings on the skin, and these areas
may become infected when scratched. In addition, bed bugs have stink
glands that create odors and they also leave fecal spots on bed
sheets.
Prevention
- Launder all bedding routinely (even comforters and bedspreads).
- Regularly vacuum the home including all bedding and furniture
upholstery.
- Do not buy secondhand beds, bedding or upholstered furniture.
Try to eliminate cracks and crevices in flooring and walls.
Repair cracks in plaster, wallpaper and paint on the walls and
ceilings. Replace loose wallpaper and drapes that cannot be
cleaned.
- Amorphous silica gel and diatomaceous insecticides may be
used to treat wall voids and attics, but do not use any insecticides
on mattresses or bedding.
- During warm sunny days, all bedding can be solarized outdoors
for several hours to kill the bed bugs.
Bed Bugs
Tubular beds provide good habitat
for bed bugs
B) Bees
and Wasps
Renowned for their painful sting, these insects often
produce an unreasonable amount of fear. The sting venom can cause
a violent histamine reaction, but only in a very small percentage
of the population. Most bee and wasp species are actually quite
docile and stinging usually occurs when their nest is disturbed.
One exception is the yellow jacket wasp; however, paper wasps are
more common in Arizona. Between August to October yellow jackets
become more attracted to sweet food and meat products and can become
troublesome, lingering around garbage cans and picnic tables.
Paper Wasp
Paperwasp
Bees and wasps are actually a highly beneficial group
of insects. Bees pollinate food plants and provide us with honey,
wax and other readily used substances. Wasps can be helpful in removing
other unwanted insects by parasitizing or hunting them. Unless an
individual is allergic to bee stings, homeowners should not be concerned
if they find one or two solitary bees or wasps nesting in their
yards. A large population, however, or a colony of honeybees should
be removed. Contact a local beekeeper or a pest management professional
for their services. Some companies remove bees using vacuums or
soap so no chemical treatment is necessary.
Africanized Bees
It should be assumed that all bees are Africanized
when encountering wild bees in Arizona. Early in the year, the largest
swarms encountered are queens locating new nest sites. At this time,
the swarms do not have brood to protect and are not generally aggressive.
Honey bees in an irrigation
box
If you see a swarm around your home, it is highly
likely that it will move on in a day or so without any intervention.
If the swarm locates a suitable nesting site such as a hole in a
block wall allowing the bees’ entrance to the wall void, they may
move inside the wall. It is best to call a pest management professional
to manage the bees at this point before they are established and
have brood to protect. Make sure to fill in the hole—which allowed
the bees to take up residence—once they have been removed.
If you encounter bees buzzing around your head, do
the following:
- Stop.
- Place your hands over your face and look through your fingers.
- Look around for the hive.
- Walk briskly away from the hive.
Do not flap or swat at the
bees, this is the worst thing you can do!!!
If you are stung or the bees bump you, do the following:
- Cover your head and face with clothing or your hands.
- Run to a building or if out in the open run until the bees
have abandoned you.
Do not dive into a swimming
pool; the bees will wait for you longer than you can hold your breath!!!
Prevention
- Discourage bees and wasps by eliminating favorable nest sites.
Use an appropriate sealant to fill cracks and holes in walls
and trees. Remove any trash or debris that might serve as a
shelter, such as overturned clay pots. Ground-nesting insects
can be discouraged by allowing the soil to dry out completely,
and by mulching or planting a ground cover over large patches
of bare ground.
- Apply paint or varnish to outdoor wooden structures.
- Consider the water sources in your yard and eliminate the
unnecessary ones. Put screens over rainspouts and water meter
boxes. A few ounces of pine scented cleaner can be placed into
evaporative coolers to discourage insects, and for pet water
and birdbaths two tablespoons of vinegar per gallon is somewhat
effective.
- Avoid home entrance by placing insulation around doorframes
and sealing window frames.
- Cover food when eating outdoors.
- Gather up rotting fruit dropped from trees.
- Seal garbage cans.
- Do not aggravate bees or wasps by swatting at them. They can
react defensively.
- Attic vents should be screened.
C) Conenose
Bugs
These insects are also known as kissing bugs, assassin
bugs, Mexican bedbugs, and Walapai (Hualapai) tigers. They can cause
life-threatening allergic reactions (anaphylaxis) in sensitive individuals.
In South America, they can successfully transmit a serious disease
known as Chagas’ disease. There are approximately 15 different species
in the U.S., but the most troublesome and numerous are found predominantly
in Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and California. The name ‘kissing
bug’ actually refers to a South American species that usually bites
its sleeping human victims on the lips.
Conenose bugs are often associated with pack rats;
please refer to the information below concerning the identification
of pack rats*.
Conenose bug
Pack rats, Neotoma spp.,
also referred to as “wood rats” or “trade rats”, are widely distributed
over much of North America. Pack rats are apparently attracted to
small, bright, shiny objects such as spoons, small pieces of jewelry,
broken bits of mirrors, coins or other items, sometimes leaving
sticks, nuts or other materials in trade. Pack rats are rat-sized
mammals with large ears, large dark eyes and a fairly long tail
that is sparsely covered with hair or, depending on the species,
well-furred with long hair. Their fur is soft; dorsal fur is colored
cinnamon, brown, gray, yellowish gray or creamy buff; feet and ventral
parts are generally much lighter in color; the tail is blackish
or puff, paler on the ventral surface.
Packrat
Pack rats are much larger than mice and tend to resemble
the introduced roof rat in general size and shape. The head and
body length is about 7 to 8 inches and the tail is 6Z\x to 7Z\x
inches long. Their clean appearance, soft fur and well-haired ears
help distinguish this native species from the Norway and roof rats.
Usually dens are situated on the ground. Ground dens
measure 3 to 5 feet in height and diameter; tree nests are somewhat
smaller. One animal may inhabit several nests, and in good feeding
areas a den may be occupied for several years or a lifetime. Pack
rats live alone except when mating or rearing young.
An Extension publication on the subject of conenose
bugs is available at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1109.pdf.
Prevention
- An attempt should be made to reduce the number of kissing
bugs present in and around the home. During daylight hours,
the conenose bug seeks dark places to shelter. Outside inspect
beneath flowerpots, outdoor furniture and any other dark, sheltered,
hiding places. Also periodically examine dark, quiet areas in
the home around mid-spring to mid-fall, focusing on sleeping
areas.
- All cracks and openings into buildings should be sealed as
completely as possible. Entry into the home does not require
a large opening. Make sure window screens fit tightly, weather-strip
outside doors and screen chimneys and vents.
- Curtains should be drawn in lighted rooms at night.
- For those sensitized and at risk for anaphylactic shock, take
steps to avoid being bitten when asleep. Move beds at least
a foot away from walls and other objects, check for bugs in
and around beds before retiring, use a tucked in bed net and
wrap bed legs with adhesive tape sticky side out.
- Outside, look for rodent nests particularly pack rat nests
around an infested home*. After removing any rodents from the
nest, destroy the nest. Destroy only those nests close to the
dwelling. By leaving distant nests intact, the kissing bugs
have an alternative site to inhabit; this may discourage migration
into the home. Remove all nest remains to ensure all kissing
bugs have been eliminated. A pest management professional can
be contacted to remove the rodents and their nests.
- Stack logs, lumber, and firewood in neat piles at least six
inches off the ground and away from building walls.
- Outside lights should have yellow bug bulbs that are not attractive
to insects.
D) Fleas
Fleas are small, wingless insects that feed on the
blood of animals and people. Americans spend about $9 billion a
year controlling fleas, which makes flea control one of the biggest
expenses for pet owners. In Arizona, the cat
flea (Ctenocephalides felis)
causes most problems. This flea does not normally live on humans,
rather cats, dogs and wildlife. They do however bite people who
handle infested animals. Flea bites cause small, red, itchy bumps,
and are most often found on the ankles and lower legs of humans.
Flea
For relief from itching apply carbolated vaseline,
menthol, camphor, calamine lotion or ice.
Prevention
- Change pet bedding regularly.
- Bathe and brush pets regularly. Soap acts as a gentle insecticide
and helps control light infestations on your pet.
- For infestations that are more significant, consider using
orally applied veterinary products for flea control (Frontline
Plus® Frontline Top Spot®, Revolution®, etc.).
- Vacuum under furniture, cushions, along walls and pet bedding.
Discard vacuum cleaner bags at least once a week. Fleas can
continue to develop inside vacuum cleaner bags and re-infest
the house
- Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are a safe preventative
treatment for fleas. These products work by disrupting the normal
development of flea eggs and larvae. They are usually mixed
with a mild insecticide to kill adult fleas. Methoprene and
pyriproxyfen are topical insect growth regulators. They are
available at pet stores as dips, pet sprays, and topical application.
Try to avoid flea collars as these are often impregnated with
amitraz and are not that effective.
- Exclude bats and wild birds from your home by maintaining
good bug screens over air vents in your attic. Maintain chimney
structures so that birds and bats cannot use them for roosting
or nest sites. These pests can carry their own fleas.
- An outbreak of human fleas in the immediate area should be
taken seriously, particularly in schools. Repellents such as
N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide (DEET) can be applied on the outer
clothing and to exposed skin. Do not use under clothing as severe
skin allergies can develop. Further, do not apply repellents
over irritated skin, around eyes or mouth or to the hands of
children. Follow the label instructions. Do not apply DEET to
infants or young children.
- Flea populations can be monitored with a simple homemade apparatus.
Place a little dish detergent into a shallow pan of water. The
detergent acts as a wetting agent, which breaks water surface
tension. Place the pan on the floor overnight, and position
a bright light source about five inches above the liquid surface.
Fleas attracted by the light, fall into the detergent solution
and drown. The Happy Jack® and Pulvex (Zema®) flea trap
are commercial products based on the same principle.
- Trim lawns and weeds to create a drier, less inviting environment
for flea larvae. Avoid piles of sand and gravel around the home
for long periods. Avoid over watering lawns.
- Keep pets within a fenced yard to prevent them from coming
into contact with other flea-infested animals.
- Outdoor flea populations can be effectively controlled with
commercially available insect killing nematodes. These naturally
safe biological control agents will kill flea larvae and pupae
commonly found in pet resting areas and dog runs
E) Lice
There are three kinds of lice that infest humans:
head lice (Pediculus humanus capitis), body lice (Pediculus humanus
corporis) and crab lice (Phthirus pubis). They can be a great source
of stress to the body. Children in particular suffer with head lice
and become sleep deprived, which in turn lowers their immune system.
Lice can crawl relatively quickly; however, they
cannot fly or jump and therefore direct contact with an infested
object or person is required to contract them. Infestations of lice
are called pediculosis, which is classed as a communicable disease.
Head louse
The head louse and the body louse are closely related
though their behavior is quite different. The head louse, as its
name suggests, remains on the head of a person its entire life,
whilst the body louse spends most of its time in the seams of unwashed
clothing and returns to the body only to feed. Crab lice are also
known as pubic lice. They have legs adapted for grasping widely
spaced hairs, such as those in the pubic and perianal regions, though
they can also spread to the armpits and facial hair (eyebrows, eyelashes
and beard, etc.).
All three lice require human blood and cannot live
on birds or other animals. Lice feed by pressing their mouthparts
against the skin of their hosts. Head lice are the most common louse
problem in the United States. Easily spread by physical contact,
infestations can occur under the best sanitary conditions. Every
year, 6 to 10 million people in the United States contract head
lice, three-quarters of which are school children less than 12 years
old. Children are more likely to engage in close contact play, share
head-gear, and are more opposed to washing their hair, so are more
prone to infestations than adults.
Fortunately, head lice rarely transmit infectious
diseases from person to person, and they are considered more of
a nuisance than a health risk problem. However, the subsequent itching
that accompanies an infestation can cause lack of sleep, and scratching
can result in a secondary infection requiring antibiotic therapy.
In extreme cases, the infested person may experience fatigue, chills,
leg cramps and rashes.
Intense itching on the back of the head or neck is
an indication of an infestation. This occurs when the lice feed
on the scalp. Examine individual hair shafts, concentrating in areas
at the nape of the neck and behind the ears. Nits are most commonly
found first, as they are much more numerous than mature lice. Look
also for small, quickly crawling, and flat insects. Lice can be
difficult to find, so examinations must be thorough. The best management
technique is prevention.
Prevention
- Launder clothing and bedding routinely including pets’ bedding
with a hot wash and tumble dry.
- Regularly vacuum the home including all bedding and furniture
upholstery.
- Do not buy secondhand beds, bedding or upholstered furniture.
- Do not share clothing or headgear and carefully inspect the
clothing and baggage of travelers.
- Bathe yourself regularly and ensure other members of the household
do also.
- Use of nit combs to remove eggs, insecticidal soaps and shampoos
are the standard treatment methods.
F) Mites
There are many different mite species, some problematic
whilst others are part of our natural fauna and go unnoticed. For
example, the follicle mite (Demodex folliculorum)
is a microscopic mite that lives in the hair follicles or sebaceous
glands of most humans. They are generally harmless and cause no
irritation or discomfort.
House Dust mites (Dermatophagoides
spp.) on the other hand are one of the principal mite
problems in North America. They are found in bedding, carpets and
furniture containing natural fibers. They are scavengers that feed
on human skin scales and other detritus but do not bite humans.
A significant number of people are allergic to them and their byproducts.
House dust mite
Scabies (Sarcoptes scabiei
hominis) mite is one of the more problematic mites that
attack livestock, horses, dogs, rabbits and people. The burrowing
action and bi-products they create causes an intense itch and dermatitis
that may be felt for several days after the mite is no longer attached.
Scratching can cause bleeding and infection of open sores. The
straw itch mite (Pyemotes tritici) is another problem
pest. It often causes epidemics of dermatitis during harvesting
and post-harvesting operations in straw, hay or certain grains.
In more severe cases sweating, fever, headache and vomiting can
occur. The straw itch mite is, however, also highly beneficial because
they feed on larvae of wheat jointworm, rice and granary weevils,
angoumois grain moths and other pests.
Diagnosis is often difficult. The mites themselves
can be microscopic and scratching the irritated skin can further
mask the true pathology. As a result, it is often confused with
entomophobia (fear of insects) in certain people. Identification
requires collecting (often by a skin scraping) and preserving the
specimen immediately in alcohol before a microscopic examination
can be performed.
Contact a physician for treatment of scabies, dermatitis
and other skin disorders. Oral antihistamines and the application
of a hydrocortisone cream to bites may help to relieve itching.
Prevention
- After being exposed to someone with mites, bath in hot, soapy
water and scrub down with a washcloth.
- Some mites migrate from birds and rodents. Current nests must
be removed and further nesting discouraged from around the home.
Chicken wire can be placed over chimneys, eaves and window mounted
air conditioners. Exclude rodents by following previous recommendations
on rodent prevention.
- Dust and vacuum furniture, floors and beds regularly, discarding
vacuum bags frequently. This is especially true for house dust
mites.
- Employ proper sanitation and storage of food products. Discard
foodstuffs infested with grain and mold mites.
- For bird and rodent mites, standard insect repellents such as
diethyl meta-toluamide (DEET), ethyl hexanediol or dimethyl phthalate
will prevent bites. But removal of resting matterial is essential.
G) Mosquitoes
Mosquitoes are one of the most important insect pests
that affect the health and well being of humans and domestic animals
worldwide. If environmental conditions are favorable, vast populations
can occur in Arizona. Female mosquitoes require a blood meal for
egg production, and they produce a painful bite as they feed. While
feeding, they can transmit a number of disease-causing organisms
to humans and animals. The diseases these organisms cause include:
encephalitis, dengue fever, filariasis, yellow fever, and malaria.
Encephalitis, dengue and West Nile virus (caused by different mosquito
born viruses) are potential threats in Arizona.
There are over 40 different species of mosquitoes
in Arizona. Most are only nuisance pests and do not transmit disease,
while other species exist without affecting humans in any way. The
four most troublesome mosquito species for Arizona include Western
Encephalitis Mosquito (Culex tarsalis), Yellow Fever Mosquito (Aedes
aegypti), Malaria Mosquito( Anopheles freeborni) and Southern House
Mosquito (Culex quinquefasciatus).
An Extension publication on the subject of mosquitoes
is available at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1221.pdf
Mosquito adult
Prevention
- Mosquitoes need water to complete their life cycle, so remove
all possible water sources. Check flowerpots, birdbaths, pet watering
bowls and other containers for excess water. Store boats, canoes
and other objects so that they do not collect rainwater. Keep
rain gutters free of leaves and other debris that prevent water
from draining. Correct drainage problems in yards and playing
fields to prevent rain and irrigation water from pooling for prolonged
periods. Fill holes or depressions in trees with sand or mortar.
Repair leaky pipes and outside faucets. Correct or report drainage
problems in ditches along public or private roadways.
Mosquito larvae
Flooded field
- For water, or structures that cannot be removed, mosquitoes
can still be eliminated from them by careful maintenance. Replace
water containers for pets, birdbaths and fountains every few days.
Maintain swimming pools correctly. For ponds, Gambusia (mosquito-eating
fish) can be introduced.
- Organic acids can be used to improve soil drainage. It is quite
common in Arizona to have compacted soils and these products are
very useful for opening up the soil to speed up water penetration.
- Pesticides can be used to kill adult mosquitoes. Applications
of methoxychlor sprayed on vegetation, tree trunks, building walls
and catch basins will control certain adult mosquito species.
- Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, or Bti, and Bacillus
sphaericus (Bs) are common soil-inhabiting bacterium that
are commercially available. This bacterium kills mosquito larvae
but will not harm fish, birds, pets or other wildlife.
- Methoprene is a synthetic pesticide that mimics the insect juvenile
hormone. When methoprene is present, the development of the mosquito
larvae is disrupted, and they do not develop to the adult stage.
Mosquito Control Districts use methoprene in situations like cisterns
and abandoned swimming pools. Methoprene is toxic to fish.
- In some areas of Arizona, bats and birds consume mosquitoes
as part of their natural diet. Incorporating nesting boxes around
your property will attract these natural predators to the area.
However, the feeding activity of insect-eating bats and birds
will not be sufficiently selective to cause complete reduction
of mosquito populations, but every bit helps. Please monitor bird
and bat boxes regularly as bees can invade the boxes and develop
hives.
- Keep mosquitoes out of the home by installing and maintaining
tight fitting window and door screens.
- Some personal protection from mosquitoes can be achieved using
insect repellents. Repeated use of repellents over a short period
(several days) is not recommended, especially for pregnant women
and children. The consumption of certain natural substances including
garlic and the vitamin B complex is reputed to reduce the number
of bites. Nevertheless, there is no scientific evidence to confirm
their effectiveness.
An Extension publication on the subject of insect
and tick repellents is available at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1311.pdf.
Mosquitoes also transmit heartworm in dogs. Heartworm
can cause severe circulatory problems and produce symptoms such
as coughing, labored breathing and general loss of vitality in advanced
stages. Because of the impracticality of protecting dogs from mosquito
feeding, the most effective means of controlling heartworm is to
prevent worms from reaching the adult stage inside the dog. Veterinarians
can prescribe excellent drug treatment to protect pets from heartworm.
Because some mosquito species fly long distances
from breeding sites, a community-wide effort may be needed to reduce
mosquitoes to tolerable levels. This requires the formation of a
local mosquito control program to organize community-wide management.
Local pest abatement districts can be set up using property tax
dollars to employ a local pest management professional team to coordinate
control strategies.
H) Rodents
House mice (Mus musculus)
are the most common mammals in cities next to man and probably the
most troublesome rodents in the United States. Their gnawing and
nest building activities can cause structural damage. Often nests
are made in large electrical appliances, where they may chew wiring
as well as other insulation resulting in short-circuits or even
fires. In addition, they are also health risk pests. House mice
are transmitters of many diseases including the Hantavirus, a virus
that can target the lungs and cause pulmonary problems.
House mice
The roof rat or black rat (Rattus
rattus) is an Old World rodent species not native to
North America that was identified in a Phoenix neighborhood in 2001.
The roof rat is implicated in the transmission of a number of diseases
to humans, including murine typhus, leptospirosis, salmonellosis,
rat-bite fever, and plague. It is also capable of transmitting a
number of diseases to domestic animals and is suspected in the transference
of ectoparasites from one place to another. In addition to consuming
and contaminating stored food and feedstuffs, roof rats will gnaw
on wiring (posing a fire hazard), and tear up insulation to use
it for nesting material. The rats will feed on the fruit and vegetative
portions of many landscape and garden plants including tree bark.
Roof rat
Roof rats are nocturnal (active at night). Roof rats
prefer to forage for food above ground in elevated areas indoors
and outdoors. They are agile climbers and travel through trees and
along vines, wires, rafters, and rooftops. They prefer to nest in
secluded areas above ground in such places as attics, overhead garage
storage, in the vine cover of fences or buildings, and in wood piles
or other stored materials where harborage can be found. Roof rats
will also burrow in the ground especially in hot, dry environments.
In these areas, they may use trees, materials stored on the ground,
concrete slabs and sidewalks to support shallow burrows.
Prevention
Effective methods of rodents control include exclusion,
habitat modification, trapping, and poison bait. The use of traps
and/or poison baits can effectively provide short-term control.
However, using the methods of exclusion and habitat modification
described earlier can provide effective, long-term control by preventing
rodent infestation.
- Seal any gaps and holes and install door sweeps. Gaps of a Z\v
inch (the diameter of a pencil) permit entry of mice, gaps of
a Z\x inch are large enough for rats.
- Any previous rodent damage in your home must be repaired and
protected from future attack. Use a strong material such as cement,
mortar or appropriate sealants to fix gaps. Stuffing steel wool
or mesh into rodent spaces only provides temporary protection.
Filling cracks with a soft material like cloth will not stop the
rodents from burrowing through and they will use the cloth for
bedding.
- Employ proper sanitation procedures and eliminate harborage.
Use pest-resistant food storage containers.
- Clean up the yard from clutter and ensure the compost bin is
pest proof (see general measures).
- Check for potential water sources that may be attracting rodents
and have them repaired or removed.
- Secure garbage in proper rodent-proof containers.
- Harvest citrus and other fruit in a timely manner and pick up
fallen fruit promptly.
- Prune shrubs so that the ground below them is clearly visible.
Mow, trim, or remove ground cover plants that grow over one foot
in height.
I) Scorpions
Generally, a healthy adult experiencing a scorpion
sting will simply experience discomfort and will require no medical
attention. However, if a scorpion has stung a child (especially
a child under the age of 7) an elderly or infirm individual you
should contact a physician or Arizona Poison and Drug Information
Center at 1-800 222-1222 as soon as possible for advice
and assistance.
About 40 species of scorpions occur in Arizona. Scorpions
are nocturnal (night) or diurnal (day), predatory animals that feed
on a variety of insects, spiders, centipedes, and other scorpions.
The larger scorpions occasionally feed on vertebrates, such as small
lizards, snakes, and mice.
The bark scorpion (Centruroides
exilicauda) is the only species in Arizona of medical
importance. Around 3 inches in length, it can be distinguished from
other native scorpions by the slender pincers, the presence of a
tooth or tubercle at the base of the stinger and the long triangular
sternum (all other Arizona species have a five-sided, or a pentagonal
sternum).
Bark scorpion female with babies
The sting of the bark scorpion can be life threatening.
When stung the victim may experience local pain, sensitivity to
touch, heat, and cold, numbness, tingling and possible extremity
weakness. In children, who are at highest risk, “roving eye”, hyperactivity
and abdominal cramps have been reported.
The majority of stings occurring in healthy young
adults may be managed at home with basic first aid measures and
follow-up. First aid should include cleaning the site with soap
and water, cool compress, elevating the affected limb to approximately
heart level, and administering aspirin or Tylenol as needed for
minor discomfort. Stings occurring in children or any patient experiencing
severe symptoms should be taken to a health care facility immediately
Scorpions are a normal and desirable component of
Arizona’s diverse ecosystems. They should be regarded with appreciation
for their essential ecological role in regulating populations of
plant-eating insects. Scorpions rarely enter houses. This occurs
most often in newly developed areas (those less than 3 years old),
where construction has disturbed the scorpion’s territory. Homes
located near normally dry riverbeds or arroyos may experience an
influx of scorpions during summer rains.
An Extension publication on the subject of scorpions
is available at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1223.pdf.
Prevention
- Remove loose boards, woodpiles, rocks, and debris from areas
immediately surrounding homes; wear leather gloves and exercise
caution whilst moving these objects in yards.
- All members of the family should be able to recognize scorpions,
and everyone should be aware of the danger they pose.
- Storing shoes and such outside is not recommended, especially
overnight. If a pair has been left outside, carefully turn them
over and check inside for hiding scorpions.
- Remove vegetation and debris that could serve as a hiding place
or breeding site near the house.
- If scorpions have been found in your area, it is recommended
that the residents conduct a nighttime reconnaissance of the house
and yard with the aid of a portable (battery-operated) camp light
equipped with a black (UV) fluorescent bulb. Scorpions glow brightly
under black light and are extremely conspicuous up to several
yards away. Once collected we recommend that the scorpions be
released back into the wild away from dwellings. After all, they
are fantastic predators. Some pest management companies provide
these services.
There are other scorpion like creatures Pseudoscorpions,
Solpugids, and Whipscorpions. These creatures are rarely encountered
and are beneficial components of Arizona’s ecosystems. These animals
should not be killed. Following the general bug-proofing guide will
exclude all but the most determined pests.
J) Ticks
When a tick feeds it takes up whole blood, extracts
the water (about 70-75% volume) and injects the water back into
the host. For this reason, they are efficient vectors of a variety
of disease causing organisms such as bacteria, spirochetes, rickettsiae,
protozoa, viruses, nematodes, and toxins. A single tick bite can
transmit multiple pathogens as well as creating secondary infections
and allergic reactions. Ticks therefore are the most common transmitters
of vector-borne disease in the U.S.
Ticks have four stages in their life cycle, and all
require blood from a vertebrate host to survive and complete their
development. Like most other arachnids, adult ticks and immatures
(nymphs) have four pairs of legs; the larvae (hatchlings) have three
pairs. Although there are many species of ticks in Arizona, humans
are likely to encounter only three. Two of these, the brown
dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus) and the Rocky
Mountain wood tick (Dermacentor andersoni) are “hard
ticks”, which belong to the family Ixodidae. The third species,
the adobe tick (Argas
sanchezi) is a “soft tick” belonging to the family Argasidae.
Rodents and deer are most often associated with ticks;
however, between the many species of ticks any wildlife in the yard
may be infested. The brown dog tick rarely attacks humans, but is
the most pestiferous species from the standpoint of the Arizona
homeowner because it is a parasite of their canine pets. During
their lifecycle, they frequently drop off the host then climb up
walls and vegetation and reattach themselves to a passing host.
Larvae can survive as long as eight months and adults as long as
18 months without feeding.
Prevention
- Regularly inspect pets for ticks. Remove any ticks from the
dog with forceps or eyebrow tweezers. Apply gentle pressure slowly
to allow the tick to loosen its mouthparts. Do not use an irritant
such as alcohol or nail varnish. Afterwards wash with soap and
water and apply a dry dressing over the wound.
- Frequently mow your grass short.
- Remove leaf litter, brush and woodpiles around houses and at
the edges of yards.
- Clearing trees and brush to admit more sunlight into the yard
reduces the amount of suitable habitat for deer, rodents, and
ticks.
- When hiking, avoid tall grass and shrubs, wear white or light-colored
clothing (attached ticks are more visible) and tuck pant legs
into socks.
- Occasionally some repellent lotions can also be used.
- Routinely check your pets for ticks and remove them immediately.
K) Venomous
Spiders
Spiders are predators that feed on insects and other
arthropods. Most often they are quite beneficial to our environment,
and are harmless. In the United States 20,000 different species
have been identified and only four occasionally are harmful to humans.
In Arizona, brown and widow spiders have been associated with significant
pathology and very rare reports of death.
In the case of a spider bite, contact a physician
or Arizona Poison and Drug Information Center at 1-800 222-1222
as soon as possible for advice and assistance. If possible,
collect the spider to aid diagnosis and correct treatment procedures.
The brown spiders (Loxosceles
spp.) found here in Arizona are often mistakenly referred
to as brown recluse spiders. The true brown recluse spider (Loxosceles
reclusa) however does not occur in Arizona, but resides
in the Midwest and northwest. The closely related Arizonian species
are quite similar to the recluse and can be distinguished only by
an expert. The most common Arizona species are Loxosceles arizonica
and L. deserta.
Adult brown spiders are brown in color and the body
is about Z\x inch long. Their legs are long and delicately covered
with short, dark hairs. The leg span is about 1Z\x – 2 inches as
adults. Distinguishing characteristics include the three pairs of
eyes arranged in a semicircle on the top of the cephalothorax (combined
head and abdomen) and a violin-shaped marking immediately behind
the eyes. This marking also gives them the name “fiddleback” or
“violin spider.”
Most brown spiders are found living in large numbers.
Males, females and even spiderlings are capable of venomous bites
creating a disease state now known as necrotic arachnidism.
Male brown spider
The bite itself is often unnoticed and the severity
of the reaction varies greatly between individuals. In the case
of necrotic arachnidism, the bitten area becomes painful, swollen
and blistered within hours. This site will evolve into what has
classically been described as a bulls-eye lesion with a dark center
(dead skin) outlined by white and set on a red and inflamed background.
It is several weeks before the blackened area falls away, leaving
a pit of scar tissue. On rare occasions, the response involves a
large amount of tissue destruction and a serious life-threatening
systemic reaction. The most up-to-date treatment includes the use
of a hyperbaric chamber, which eliminates ulceration of bites and
applying Dapsone® to the wound site.
Female brown spider
The common “black widow” spider specifically refers
to the eastern species Latrodectus mactans, which does not occur
in Arizona. Our widow species Latrodectus
hesperus is however very similar in appearance to the
true black widow. Only the female is venomous. They are shiny black
and about 1.5 inches long. The famous characteristic mark is the
reddish hourglass shape on the underside of her abdomen.
Female widow spider - dorsal
view
Female widow spider - ventral
view
Like the brown spider, the bite itself is not terribly
painful, but local pain does follow very shortly after. The venom
can cause abdominal pain similar to appendicitis as well as pain
to muscles and the soles of the feet. Other symptoms include alternating
salivation and dry-mouth, paralysis of the diaphragm, profuse sweating
and swollen eyelids. Most healthy people recover rapidly in two
to five days but the rare fatalities that occur are due to heart
and lung failure. No fatalities have been reported in Arizona.
If bitten, clean the site well with soap and water.
Apply a cool compress over the bite location and keep the affected
limb elevated to about heart level. Aspirin or acetaminophen may
be taken to relieve minor symptoms.
Tarantula spiders belong to
the family Theraphosidae. They are our largest spiders. The
males can reach a length of 2 to 2 ½ inches and the female 4 inches.
These spiders feed on arthropods and small vertebrates such as mice,
lizards and snakes. They can live as long as 20 years. All species
are nocturnal, living in holes that they construct. During our late
summer months the males are seen moving through the desert in search
of mates.
Tarantulas are usually very timid and secretive.
When threatened they can bite. They have large fang-like chelicerae
that can cause some pain. Their venom is usually harmless to humans.
Another method of defense is using the hind legs to rub hairs off
the top of the abdomen. This cloud of fine hairs can be irritating
to the eyes and mucus membranes so be careful when handling these
spiders.
Female tarantula
Prevention
- Perform routine, thorough house cleaning, particularly storage
areas (closets, basements, attics, etc) and behind outside shutters.
Regular dusting and clutter reduction removes hiding places. Pay
particular attention to doors, windows, vents and along foundations.
- Reduce clutter in garages, attics, and basements.
- Reduce clutter in storage cupboards; do not place your hands
where you can not see what you are picking up.
- Trim weeds around the building foundation and remove firewood,
building materials, and debris to discourage insects and spiders
from living next to a structure. Reduction of heavy dense vegetation
will help reduce spider populations.
- Install tight-fitting window screens and door screens.
- Consider installing yellow or sodium vapor light bulbs outside
entrances because these lights are less attractive to insects
and thus draw fewer spiders to the area.
- Follow the guidelines for general exclusion e.g. sealing cracks,
fitting door sweeps and eliminating other possible entry points
to prevent spiders from moving indoors.
- Use a vacuum to remove webs, unwanted spiders and egg sacs on
a continuous basis.
- Learn to recognize brown and widow spiders and instruct other
members of the household.
- Do not collect wood from woodpiles out-of-doors without wearing
gloves. Place wood from outside directly on fires. Do not store
indoors.
- Chemical control need only be considered if there are a number
of bites reported in the area and occupants are at risk. The widow
spider is resistant to many insecticides so check the label. However,
brown spiders and widow spiders can simply be vacuumed. A small
amount of boric acid crystals can be vacuumed up prior to cleaning
out spiders and webbing. To be extra careful, remove the vacuumed
bag and discard in an outside garbage container immediately after
vacuuming.
Most stored product pests can be grouped as beetles,
moths, or mites. These include granary weevil
(Sitophilus granaries), rice weevil (Sitophilus oryzae),
flour beetles (Tribolium spp.), cigarette beetle (Lasioderma
serricorne), drugstore beetle (Stegobium paniceum),
sawtoothed grain beetle (Oryzaephilus surinamensis), Indian
meal moth (Plodia interpunctella), angoumois grain moth
(Sitotroga cerealella) and other mites.
They are not usually harmful even when consumed. Most are introduced
into our homes in infested foodstuff, but others make their own
entry into homes. Additional invaders such as ants, roaches and
firebrats may also attack pantry foods. Certain ant species such
as thief ants are toxic and can make people ill if ingested in significant
quantities.
Sawtoothed grain beetle
Indian meal moth
Stored food pests are economically important. They
are responsible for the loss of millions of dollars every year in
contaminated products and are also responsible for the damage of
important heritage artifacts in museums. Large populations of stored
product pests may develop in unused or undisturbed foods that were
infested when purchased. Arizona’s warm climate can allow many of
these pests to reproduce quickly, producing several generations
per year.
The most commonly attacked products are cereal grains,
spices and nuts, but all food items are susceptible. Certain non-food
items such as dried flowers, stuffed furniture, and toys can conceal
infestations.
Prevention
- Employ a regular cleaning schedule of the pantry and other storage
areas. Include regular inspections with a flashlight.
- Organize your shelves so that older food products will be used
before newer ones. Reduce clutter and excess products in cabinets
or storage. Also, dispose of all infested and old or outdated
products.
- Store materials that are not commonly infested such as animal
bedding, paper products and canned goods away from those that
are regularly infested.
- Prevent birds and rodents accessing food items.
- Good lighting is recommended where possible.
- Caulk cracks (especially wall penetrations) that join with other
rooms.
- Repair moisture and ventilation problems.
- Eliminate cardboard as much as possible. Replace cardboard containers
with sealable glass or plastic.
Two groups of pests are generally responsible for
destroying fabric: clothes moths and carpet beetles.
The clothes moth larva is the only feeding stage
and therefore the only stage that damages fabrics. The larval stage
lasts for 1 to 3 months during which time the larva eats only fibers
or materials of animal origin. These include woolen rugs and clothing,
hair, fur, feathers, taxidermy mounts and felt.
Cloths moth damage
side or in cracks at the edges of woolen carpets,
under furniture and inside storage containers. Rarely, if ever,
will these insects be found infesting garments or items that are
used or moved regularly. The larvae tend to crawl about as they
feed and eat the nap from the fabric surface. If the larvae remain
for a long time, deeper damage and holes may appear.
Adult cloths moths are buff colored and about Z\v
inch long. They are seldom seen; they avoid light and remain hidden.
They do not feed or cause any damage.
Carpet beetles also feed on dead insects that may
be trapped in inner wall spaces. They can create a considerable
amount of damage if left undisturbed and beetles leave numerous
cast skins. The larvae feed on dried foods and materials of plant
and animal origin within the house such as woolen rugs, blankets,
clothing, furs, hides, feathers, and other animal feeds, etc.
Today clothes moths and carpet beetles are less
problematic since many fabrics are synthetic and not from a natural
origin. Dry-cleaning and other sanitation methods have also reduced
the populations of these pests.
Prevention
- Vacuum frequently and be sure to dispose of the contents regularly.
Special attention should be given to cracks, corners and underneath
rugs and furniture.
- Clean fabrics before storage. Periodic brushing and sunning
of stored fabrics is also helpful. The larvae do not like the
light and brushing will destroy or dislodge eggs, larvae, and
cocoons.
- For long-term storage, gather fabrics and place them in tightly
sealed chests, boxes, or storage closets.
- Dry clean or dispose of infested clothing, cloth, blankets,
and other fabrics. Small items can be freeze-treated by placing
them in the freezer for a week.
- Mothballs or moth flakes are not very effective unless the items
are also placed in a tightly sealed container.
- Boric acid dust can be used to treat cracks, crevices and other
areas after the infested materials have been removed or cleaned.
An enormous amount of effort and money can be saved
by pest proofing a home or building. Pest proofing has many advantages:
it is non-toxic, it is sustainable and it is VERY effective at reducing
the number of pests in your home.
For additional information on insects and other fascinating
arthropods of Arizona and the Southwest, check out our Urban IPM
web-site: http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/.
Protect your family and your home. Bug proof
your house.
The University of Arizona is an Equal
Opportunity/Affirmative Action
Employer. Any products, services, or organizations that are mentioned,
shown, or indirectly implied in this publication do not imply endorsement
by the University of Arizona.
Document located http://cal.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1320/
Return to College publication list
